Gonzo12c

Its all in the wording above and nothing else no grey areas. So if i had a indicator cluster on the front and pointed one of the bulbs to the side say the outer one of the 2 then it would pass. I can see this becoming a problem with whichever garage it would be. My understanding then is if you stand at the side and can see a light flashing its legal doesnt matter if its on the front bumper or wing.

Im thinking about deleting them going off what it says in the MOT manual. zeds have wrap around lenses at the front i would say so woulod it pass? Maybe Jeff will read this and see if he would pass it :) `Vehicles first used on or after 1 April 1986 must be fitted with one side repeater indicator on each side. Instead of a separate lamp, the side repeater might be part of the front direction indicator if it includes a wraparound lens.`

Ah ive got so many balance bars lol The chrome one is a NA anyway so thats handy with no clutch booster connection on the end :) Ok so this harness `Auto loom from ecu to the inner wing is part of the main body harness!!!` Is that going from the autobox ecu and to where? I presume its down the left hand side is it all complete with the auto loom for the engine ecu or a different one? Also i presume this loom will go up to the dash lights somewhere to illuminate the extra lamps for an auto? From what i remember is it about 2 or 3 lamps along the bottom right batch for oil pressure and autobox temp? Another also with autobox does the oil get cooled aon a heat exchanger effect in with the radiator and would an external oil cooler like a Mocal one be enough to cool the oil by air? All in though it seems quite possible just need to get it all right before i proceed Cheers folks :) Marty

I say i have to agree with what he has said and do not see how you come to your conclusion that a valve stuck open is going to create over boosting and therefore a lean mix. You will effectively be creating pretty much nil positive pressure on one side so the engine would run ragged and one turbo wouldnt be enough to create excess boost. Even then the pressure would be dumped as its still protected from overboosting by the actuator. I think for the problem to occur so quickly after rebuilding there is something else at fault either as well or first. I think the turbo company are pretty much not going to pay out as well due to them presenting an argument against your claims. Times like this some kind of warranty comes good. Its harsh but thats life.

Thanks alot Jeff will have to look into this in detail as to what is effectively required to make it work and what is not as it would not be on an everyday zed

So i wanted to compose a little list of parts required to swap from a manual to auto. Can someone confirm and add what i miss autobox flywheel torque converter gearbox wiring auto ecu harness? auto gear stick brake pedal maybe auto prop control box by ecu? auto bronze crank bush some sort of trans oil cooler Auto ecu for the engine (Auto loom from ecu to the inner wing is part of the main body harness!!! ) Wiring modification to include starter imobiliser to prevent engine start when in drive Auto dash cluster surround bezel with auto box control lights in + wirng to ecu Hold/ power switch loom to ecu ( optional ) Flex plate Flex plate to crank bolts Bolts for the torque convertor to flex plate Bellhousing sandwhich plates Plate for covering hole where master cylinder previously fitted Balance bar Cant think of anything else right now. Reason is i have a cunning plan

If it is still there then the hoses have simply been joined together and the only way to delete it properly is to get a NA PS pump, pot and engine bracket which go for around £50. I do actually have one spare and if i continue to decide to sell me shorty i will be putting it up for sale. Then you can rip all that junk out. Oh you have the clutch bleed there as well on the side which you can delete by getting a single braided hose from zcentre that goes straight from master to slave cylinder so thats even more deleted out and alot tidier engine bay.

for the fuse box do a search as i posted up my one with pics somewhere. Other side is HICAS pump if you have HICAS again do a search about removing HICAS. PS pot can be moved to where the small fuse box is with a NA pot on and changing a hose. Again will show up in a search with what i have done on mine. That should be wings clear then.

Just seen part of the vid theres not alot i can say would quite easily be picked up on testing or has happened when fitted due to some other reason.

that doesnt sound right to me with the wastegate open you are gonna lose a whole load of boost

Arches are looking good :) Thought it would be a bit too JDM for this forum. I may be selling those as the zed is going and i doubt my new car will need them :)

I had a GTO great car rear spoilers get problems but alot less problems than a zed i found. A nice drive too and the 4wd feel is great. All over a nice GT but performance wise cant beat a zed and therefore i dont think the prices are as high. Sold mine and got back in a zed as the GTO was a bargain and only meant to be a temporary profit

Yep was watching it then as well :) Im all over this ebay like a hawk

Im after this too so i can rip the thing apart you can have the shell when im done :)

Anyone on here used the company sva imports in Folkstone either bought a car from them or been down there before to check them out?

You know i have some arches in the lock up that you could try Baz and get measurements from to see if it will give you 85mm. Feel free they are on top of the slickie iirc

Ah i was hoping to see a real one :( Bet that thing shifts though i had a nitro buggy before zippy little things

you not gonna delete the EGR as well while the engine is out? Means you can get the top 2 bellhousing bolts from the top then plus deleting out a load of old vac lines

No ABS on my slickie just bags of room. Just thinking about something similar for my build as the plan is to fit 2 10in, amp, 2 nos bottles and 1 extra smaller bottle. Looks to be quite alot of room from the size of that thing. How hard is all this fibreglass stuff to do as i was thinking about just building it myself.

Ah right i get it so how about the 350z autobox on a 300zx engine with paddle shift? would it be something interesting to try?

i saw this looked a bit rough and alot of the space is wasted in the bottom or can you get to that?

Ive looked into paddle shift and my understanding was that you need a sequential box which i dont think the zed auto box is. Maybe someone can clarify this a bit better as on a drag/track car maybe this would be the way to go? Or there was the reports of the 6 speed 350z box being fitted to a zed would this not be even better?

How about though with an uprated torque converter like the SZ zed? Try tell them that a manual is quicker it think they know their stuff.

The Blue Beast runs sub 10 on an auto box. Im sure there is a reason they put an auto box on instead of a manual. http://www.specialtyz.com/sz-z32.php

Everybody has different opinons on what internals to use along with what tubs to use and so on and so on so its not that simple. Either way though 400 isnt too hard to build. Wiesco pistons Uprated cosmetic HGs 555 injectors uprated ICs/FMIC Uprated tubs maybe JWT chipped ECU (id get the right person to do it) Apexi filter Full Exhaust BC So thats about it off the top of my head. Of course other will recommend other parts and uprated rods and such but for 400 is not required. Main thing holding the engine back is the injectors as its limiting your boost to a safe 15psi