Gonzo12c

Took her for a good run out today and all the smoke has cleared was alot of crap in the system. However got another slight problem now At idle i can hear a grinding noise in the left hand exhaust near the turbo which is exactly what it was doin before the turbo that side gave up. It doesnt do it all the time just every 10 seconds or so and sounds like the impellor or turbine fins catching and take the revs up and it stops. Oil pressure gauge is reading 30 psi at idle and increases with revs any ideas???

hey folks need a few suggestions on and what ive just had. Ive had the engine out for the last couple of weeks changing the turbos that were knackered and ive put it all back in now. I used a pair of turbos that were reconditioned 4k ago. I started her up and all seemed fine just a couple of coolant drips to deal with so had the engine on and off a couple of times to check the leaks. Then the next time i started up and got a little hotter i have got plumes of white smoke bellowing out and seemed to be calming down a bit and was about to go for a test drive but reved a bit and again lots of smoke so i thought i better just park up to look again in the light. Im hoping its not the worst as had no problems apart from the turbos car was running fine. Any ideas??? im gonna give her a good run up tomorrow and smoke the neighbours out but trying to rack my brain and what else it could be. Im thinking there might be some water got into the exhausts but just need more ideas. Marty

hey folks im just putting my engine back in and neede to know which way the oil cooler pipes go round the only ones i didnt mark. there is the one from the sump and the one from the filter block. The metal pipes on the car side have one on top of the other would be good if someone could tell me which one goes on top cheers Marty

43 :)

Im pretty sure there is a couple of zeds about in Lincoln saw a silver one last night is it anyone on here??? Im just in Lincoln for the week getting my engine out :) Marty

Ive got one of these and impressed with it however DHL did muck up the delivery first time but got it refunded :)

Yes it is this is the stuff i used http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250369050017&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

I used 8mm blue hose off of ebay for mine and used 4 metres of it plus you can get all the hose T pieces and clamps from same place. I plummed my boost pipe into the small hose coming off of the balance pipe on the right hand side going towards the brake master cylinder. Its a good size for the T piece that comes with the Blitz kit. Do you have single solenoid or dual as i used T pieces on my boost hoses as i have single solenoid. Hope this helps ya Marty

i had same sort of problem and my zed is really slow to start takes ages on turnover and i found out when i pressed the accelerator on start up it would run really rough till it got warm and with no accelerator it didnt play up at all may be something to look into. Marty

My turbos are on the way out so gonna be lifting the engine out in the next few weeks to either do rebuild or upgrade of turbos :)

just been reading a few posts on renewing the turbos or at least getting them off to sort them out. I see most say its so much easier to remove the engine and you can hire a engine crane for about 20 quid for the weekend. How long does it take to get the engine out though ive looked at some of the posts on it and cant see a time plus is there any parts im gonna need because ive removed the engine like renewing gaskets. Gonna attempt this job in a few weeks and refurb both turbos maybe with T28 compressors as aint got the money for jwt 500s :) Marty

Just been reading up on turbo faults and car was sounding like a bag of nails tonight which may mean one of the turbos is seized. I can hear it on the left as i accelerate sounds like grinding and on deceleration it kinda grinds and then sounds like it starts spinning again. Does my idea sound right ? i started to get my boost back today as well which made me think its the turbo plus there is a little more smoke than normal at times rings too many bells for me. Now reading into the standard turbos am i right that it is a garret T25 flange with T25 compressor side too which people upgrade to a T28 compressor which is the same flange but bored out. Ive been looking on ebay and there seems to be alot of rebuild kits going and also has the 200sx got the same turbo. Thanks for all the help people Marty

Hey folks i need a few ideas as i fitted a blitz DSBC last weekend and was testing it out and slowly bringing the setting up and ended up with 14psi but then as i went to accelerate again i have lost all boost and can hardly get over 0. I have checked all the hoses for leaks and have found none and im not sure if the ECU will put it into some safety mde which is preventing me from getting any boost pressure. Marty

Hey folks im after a bit of help setting up my boost controller that ive just fitted. At the moment ive set the ratio to 47 and im boosting at about 12psi however from the posts i read about setting the gain it says to set it at 5 or 6. When i switch onto the gain adjustment on the Boost controller this goes between 0-100 so 5 or 6 seems a little low to me. Is it me being a mong with it? My spec is twin hks filters and mines ecu and its on a 92 lwb manual. Thanks for help in advance Marty

Hey folks where does everyone route their wires through from the engine to cockpit. im just trying to fit my boost controller and thats all im unsure about thanks Marty

Ive had that exact drama had to retap out to a M12 and and moditfy the starter motor flange. Also mine decided to split the starter motor flange in half before i found out i was missing a bolt so ur lucky you found it first. Been good ever since used tap set from halfords about 20-30 quid worked a treat Marty

yep just found the 2nd bleed point this morning and all seemed alot better so took it out for test drive. Was doing ok then i went to change from reverse to first and nothing no resistance in the pedal and no oil leaked out so looked at bleeding it anyway and got no pressure coming out however only did the top bleed point. I think it is either the booster unit or the master or slave cylinder so gonna look at changing them. Any ideas as to wether it could be the booster unit as im pretty sure this is a diaphragm type so if that has split will get no push on the master cylinder cheers folks Marty

Hey folks just after a bit of advise on the clutch side as thursday night i had to get recovered. Id been driving for about 2 hours and parked up and the car stalled then started up again and couldnt get a gear and had smoke coming out so had a look and seen oil and leaked out probably onto exhaust which caused the smoke. Had a look underneath and thought at first it was coming from the clutch slave cylinder so got recovered. When i got back i had already put a bit of oil back in the clutch pot and i managed to get gears but seemed to be air in the system as the biting point was really low and struggling to disengage. So today stripped the master and slave cylinders and cleaned them up as the thing wouldnt bleed. Ive put them back together and trying to bleed but getting no pressure at the slave cylinder which made me think about the clutch booster just before i came back in. Is there anymore in the system im missing as i looked at manual and it talks about check valve but cant see that. I know i shud have tested the booster when i had the master cylinder off really cos that is a pain to get off. Any ideas and help is great thanks Marty

Hey gotta be someone on here was grey lwb reg CEZ 1851 looked good parked up in the tent site. Also good to see a good taste in music for Zed drivers :hyper: Marty

I go back to Lincoln when i can to see family so you might see my red one going about sometimes too

I now there is a grey one around Bassingbourn as ive seen it when ive been out in mine but ill have to keep an eye out for this black one :)

I know i changed the front brake pads before and the piston on that side was a little stiff but wouldnt think it was a fail plus mot prive is up due to new laws it was 48 quid. i have just seen another one i missed too which is drivers seat insecure. I had a look and the electric motor to make the rear bottom of the seat go up and down (the bit you sit on not the part of the seat against your back) isnt connected. The motor works fine but it seems a collar is missing which joins the shaft from the motor to the splines onto the seat to control the up and down movement af the back of the seat. The one for the front works fine so any ideas on this part as well. Any ideas about the hicas ball joint fault ive seen the shortcut for changing the ball joint on the link arm and thats fine for the offside but he failed it on the nearside for steering connection has excessive play. Now i quizzed him about hicas and he didnt seem familiar with it but need some sort of spec to show if it is meant to have freeplay when staionary with engine running. Ive looked at diagrams for the hicas and can see the rod that goes into the actuator is on a thread so wouldnt think this is loose and the bush the other end seems fine. Thanks for the help so far guys

My 300 just failed MOT today on a few points. Its a 92 Z32 TT Manual. Below is what it failed on most are easy to remedy: nearside registration plate bulb not working nearside front brake caliper has restricted free movement offside rear wheel steering ball joint has excessive play nearside rear wheel steering connection has excessive freeplay and brakes not tested due to caliper problem now the first 2 should be no problem as long as i can get the caliper to free off i think it is just binding slighty any advise on this? i saw it on the ramps for the rear wheels and the offside rear hicas link bush looks a bit worn so if anyones knows where i can get a pair of these to do both sides please advise. on the nearside when the rear wheels were raised and he tested the rear bearings the wheel would move a bit suggesting freeplay and looking underneath it looks like its from inside the hicas boot. Ive not much knowledge of the hicas system so any help will be grateful and is it meant to move slighty with the engine running and rocking the wheel side to side? Any help or links to parts would be good as ive got 10 days to do it myself plus is there any performance bushes for the hicas link arms. Thanks everyone

Just fill the rad up all the way then allow the engine to run for a couple of minutes then turn off and top up again. The engine at this point shouldnt of got that hot so it will be safe to open the rad cap. :)

I just got a reply today: Phil Travis Cars ltd CARZONE North Holme Rd Louth Lincolnshire LN11 0HN United Kingdom 08446632030 --------------------------------------------------------- Hi, thanks for your e-mail. The info on the car is pre-filled when we put the registration number into the computer. Will try to ammend, thanks for your concern.