damo-f

Think I used 10mm pipe for mine. Was a while ago tho so can't remember for sure, but I do remember that I ended up getting pipe slightly too big so fitting the rubber lines was quite difficult but it worked. I looked at other options but decided on kunifer in the end because it's so much easier to work with and cheaper when compared to stainless or nylon even.

When I did mine I just used kunifer pipe, the same as I used for my brakes. Still easy to work with, but good corrosion resistance and pretty cheap.

If it's any help to you mine is 326 white. It's a nice clean looking white. Wasn't until my friend ruined my wing and I had to replace it that I realised how faded the rest was. The new paint looks a lot cleaner than the rest. Having said that my car was "resprayed" before I got and the work is shocking! It has patches of everything that could go wrong, orange peel, dry spray, runs, dirt under the paint and fish eyes. Any half decent body shop should be able to match bumpers etc tho. I just got a bad example lol. Needless to say it's got to be redone properly at some point!

Well I'm pretty sure that 3 bolt flanges you normally find transit gaskets fit there, depending on the size obviously. Which makes them easy to get hold of. If not look on eBay, you can find 2 and 3 bolt flanges quite easy and cheaply. I'm assuming they are just the usual sort of 2 bolt flanges on a 2.5" pipe?

Which part of the exhaust do you need the gaskets for?

You can get a 3 gauge holder to go in the spare stereo slot.

As far as the battery tray goes, just drill the spot welds and unbolt the bolts. You may need to pry a few stick parts off. I had to remove mine as it looks quite scummy and there was some rust under. I welded a bracket to the inner wing as well. Makes the tray removable for future rather than spot welding it back. Hope that helps

I had the car stripped at the time for the welding so it was easier. The rear is fairly easy, with the interior panels removed you an get your hands around inside quite easy. The front you take the panel off the pillars and I just taped the new pipe to the old one and carefully pulled it through. The original exits behind the wing so you'll need to remove them ideally and then you can run the pipe to the bottom instead of it coming out behind the wing. Once you take the panel off etc you'll see it's fairly self explanatory really. Hope that helps

I replaced mine with a single piece of hose all the way from the top right through the bottom of the sill with plenty spare. I still need to actually attach them somewhere to hold them in place. There's no old pipes to split or joins to come apart so shouldn't ever see a drop inside again. Having said that, after all the welding work I had to do its not seen rain since, nor will it! :D

The timing belt partially obstructs the pump if my memory serves me correct? Hence why you would remove it to allow better access and avoid the risk of damage to the belt. Been a long time since I did my pump in the car tbh, normally do stuff with my engine out. I'm sure Jeff will be along to give the definitive answer shortly, seeing as he has done it a lot more times than anybody!

Mines also the same! Although its that loud on mine it's actually embarrassing to drive slow past pedestrians! Lol

Either of them are all weather really, it's just that if you car is gonna see water or salt then you really want to give the best protection you can and go with underseal. My car never moves in the rain now, let alone gritted roads etc which is why I decided not to underseal and just used stone chip. You will still want to stone chip at least arch area etc before underseal.

If you only plan on low miles in the dry during summer then you could just stone chip and overpaint it. That's what I did with mine and it does look really nice underneath. Wouldn't advise it if you plan to use it in wet or winter weather obviously.

Don't drill holes and weld them back up, it will burn. Undo the screws on the sill kick plates and just pull the carpet back, there's loads of holes to feed the lance in.

I had that type of pay out few years back when a senile old man pulled straight into the side of my vectra. They gave the estimated repair cost minus 20% (iirc) for me to sort the repairs myself using second hand parts etc as they are not allowed. Everybody wins in a way, they pay less cos otherwise they will basically write the car off and you get the repair money without the car being recorded cat c or d. In my case I got payed £1055. A new wing and headlight, plus a couple of scuffs on a wheel to live with until refurbed and I was still £1000 in pocket. Much better than trying to replace my car for an equal. Anyway good luck with it. Hopefully you'll get a fair pay out offer, if not tell them you want the car fixed back to pre-accident condition. It'll work out cheaper and less hassle for them to just pay you off.

That'll be diff cooler by sounds of it mate

My whole back end is done with es bushes and my ride isn't harsh at all. I suppose it depends also on your wheels and suspension but mine rides fine. Feels a lot nicer to drive though. Only thing I can say is that road noise may be a factor but to what degree I'm not sure as I removed all sound deadening at the same time!

I've got the same brakes on mine. Hard to tell from pic but they look better than mine and they are still ok. I can't remember for certain what pads I had originally but they squealed like a pig all the time! Had red stuff since and never had a problem. Anyway as the others have said measure them up, if not worn down or cracked/warped etc then I wouldn't worry about them.

I've got a hobbyweld bottle, works out a lot cheaper. Search for your nearest supplier on there site mate. It's £50 deposit for bottle and about £30-35 for a refill last time I got 1 earlier this year. You will need to get a new regulator though but does work out a lot cheaper. With the targa drains it might be worth doing what myself and a few others have done and bring the hose itself out the bottom if the sill. I chose that way as there is no joint inside that could ever leak and the pipe can't rust or clog etc. up to you but worth considering IMO.

The fronts do drain up there. Mine I've re-routed so the pipe comes from the drain, out the hole and all the way out the so that it doesn't just run on the wing. My rears I've just run pipe the pipe all the way out so there's no join to fail.

I paid £80 for mine a couple years back iirc.

I've got hammered black. Love that colour for some reason :D

That's why I said in my original post about it still being connected. It will throw eml if not plugged in. You just have to have it connected even if it's tucked up out the way somewhere. Hopefully that should sort most of the problem for you, but should definately turn the light off. If it still idles rough then check all the pipes thoroughly as vauxhall are good at hiding stuff so you can't see it! (been there and had the headache!! :D) Hope you've got it sorted anyway mate

Also did you use a proper blanking plate or do the 5p trick?

I know it seems obvious but the egr is still plugged in? Check all the connectors and vacuum hoses etc aswell. Hth