Everything posted by greg
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Bianic scratches his head.........
optimax or bp ultimate :cool:
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Happy Birthday T-pot
happy birthday mate :cool:
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lifting engine
no need to remove cams or sprockets, just undo all 8 head bolts per head so 16 in total, and dont forget the 10mm bolt on each head, you may laugh but i have seen someone try to remove the head with this on, and they were there for about 2hours :xxx: CheerZ
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Urgent Help Needed Now!
as james says check cambelt, followed by compression
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lifting engine
find yourself a suitable straight allen key no bends,place 1/2" 10mm socket over it, use a breaker bar and short extension and undo each one
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Cooling system screwed...
LMAO it would do ok in an exhibition :cool:
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turbocharging an n/a
depends on what power you want, the car in question has had alot including jwt 530s 555's pace side mount intercoolers koyo rad etc etc very rough idea would be £3000 for parts +labour to which depends on who's fitting and also how far you want to go with aftermarket parts obviously a decent engine with good comp, and re con turbo's £1500ish new clutch&flywheel £500ish boost controller to avoid changes to EFI harness £200ish gauges for boost, water, oil aftermarket £100 ish everything else you could use second hand
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Cooling system screwed...
as above^^^ mark i like the pic of the rear of the engine, nice attention to detail there bud :cool: and obviously the rest!
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turbocharging an n/a
no need for TT efi harness, you can use a boost controller, and then no need for the wastegate solenoids no need for A/C or any pipework optional, and no real point and you would use a TT gearbox, flywheel, to save any hassle of grindng out the inards of the bellhousing, and shiming the starter motor the rest is about right, as i have just finished a full TT conversion :cool:
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Cooling system screwed...
ztech based in between newbury and swindon, about 20min drive for you http://www.ztech.co.uk regards greg
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alternator
NA ampage = 80 TT ampage = 90 it would work fine, but if you have a large sound systym it would put a larger drain on the smaller ampage of the NA better of finding a TT variant :cool:
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Cooling system screwed...
as said, it will be a small hose under the plenum, best way is to bypass these, and have direct coolant to both turbo's and bypassing all the little hoses under the plenum
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Competency of my local Tein dealer...?
ooops bud's kicking in :wack:
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Competency of my local Tein dealer...?
me thinking backwards, in my head i was thinking if your compressing the spring you are also pushing the rod back in to shock! but in reality you are not, infact quite the opposite,as your increasing the distance from the bottom to the top il get my coat :wack:
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I know why my Tubs are now shot!!
blimey those water feeds dont look pretty :wack:
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Competency of my local Tein dealer...?
as you said in the first instance, if the collar is pressed up againt the spring what happens to the spring? it gets compressed what happens when a spring gets compressed? it becomes shorter? therefor if it becomes shorter then it also means the ride height will be lower, so if your collar is at the top then there talking out there arse, there you go you answered your own question, :cool:
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Bianic scratches his head.........
i like your humour, thirsty distraction :p
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Bianic scratches his head.........
sorry for the pedantic moment :wack: , problem is hesitation can be many things, from a loose coil pack to a vaccum leak so you need to go over the engine bay and see if you find anything a miss, best thing is to search hesitation on the search facility top of the page, even a bad batch of fuel can cause hesitation, and its funny how this has happended since you filled up? yes the fuel pressure is released when you undo the cap hence the hiss you get,i wouls see how it is tommorrow and repost here perhaps after another drive, you may then have a more specific problem
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I must be mad
im glad you have not forgotton you own a 300 :p
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Bianic scratches his head.........
you sure you put unleaded in the car :wack: you need to be more specific to when you say run like a pig PMSL
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Hicas hoses
just to add any bolt fitment will have flat copper washers, mainly used for PS/hicas joins and turbo's
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Hicas hoses
so are you fitting an eliminator? as you have feed and return going to the hicas unit, the eliminator bins the hicas and if you have the kit it comes with a link hose which as you say causes a loop,you then need worry no more! if your just causing a loop then you can cut pipes and add a piece of sturdy hose so it loops the systym and secure with jubilee clips people make the mistake of fitting an eliminator, and forgeting they have 15year old arms and bushes coming of the unit, therefor once unit is disabled you still have worn rear suspension, which will handle poorly :smash:
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Manual conversion, what other parts should I replece at same time?
this is the thing, yet bob from no 12 knows all :smash: :rolleyes:
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women v men
i let the misses drive my old saab 9-3 turbo, she was driving so slow, so i said put ya foot down then, well a few weeks later when it got to 3k rpm, the turbo kicked in and the steering wheel pulled so hard to the left and missed a lamp post by an inch, fookin women don't even no what torque understeer can do :wack: :smash:
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Oi!!!!!
il have a baileys :wack: :slap: mixed with grolsch :hurl: