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greg

Dormant Member
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    Ukraine

Everything posted by greg

  1. greg :wack: = well kinda greg
  2. no i was a bit harsh saying that,its just there was a bad batch of weisco and there was a few problems,and the problem is there are no comebacks but yes they seem to be used with no problems by most
  3. as the pic shows there is also a rubber hose with clamps either end if you release clamp and press breather back in relaese clamp it should hold it in fine
  4. the 1st thing to fail will be the o-rings/seals just seen a set with 3 failed o-rings that leaked badly so make sure you replace them and make sure there seated properly or its plenum off again,but you can reconect the lines to the rail whilst plenum is off and make sure there are no leaks :D
  5. hmm without seeing it mate hard to say could even be dripping from the rear cam seals on to the hot manifold could be turbo could be pcvs if you rule out the cheapest option 1st ie.. pcv s then you can narrow it down from there cheerz
  6. do it under car bit of a struggle with rad in to reach 17mm pivot bolt dont completly undo it or the bolt bracket falls of the back then you have fun remove 13mm nut on back of tensioner then do up 13mm ajuster bolt until enough tension is required
  7. 10/40 is fine 10/60 is fine its down to preferance iv always used rs 10-60 my z always was as smooth as you can imagine and i use to hammer the girl oil under servo which is very near to the turbo! pcvs are situated either side of the plenum if you remove the VVT harnesses and other bits either side you can see the hoses coming of the pcv s check for cracks or oil leaks if you can remove pcv valves press valve in if it sticks in then they need replacing if you shake it and it doesnt rattle chances are they need replacing,just keep an eye in your rear view mirror greg
  8. nice to meet you all guys old and new t-pot if i can get up to you bud il replace h m pipes and do a water bypass with you,hope its all ok matey :)
  9. iv come to fix your fridge :smash:
  10. :rofl: jeez i better bring my calvins :hurl: ;)
  11. come on rich pop down its going to be a good un :p
  12. no you dont need to replace tensioner just insert 10mm bolt in to side of tensioner so it cant open up fully then leave a 4-6mm gap as before ;) hmm TBH aaron im learning the z game as i work at z tech with ryan so its difficult to say without seeing,i know yourself you have a pretty good knowledge of the 300 :p if it gets to it your always welcome to pop down this neck of the woods bud ,anyhow it just seemed the puddle of oil in the sprocket suggested the cam seals on yours! perhaps when the seals were fitted the mating surface to the camshaft has been damaged or the covers are leaking?
  13. Is spose to be part of 60k service not always changed though,If you have an air gun the sprocket is easily removed then remove camshaft backplates then seals can be pryed out as for seals ryan[baggins]has a spare couple at work could always buzz him and he can send you them,there only a few quid each i think ;)
  14. im fookin going what more do you want FFS :tongue:
  15. 2nd that mine use to moan like the mother in law :smash:
  16. get back in a z and stop moaning ;)
  17. might of been emero
  18. legrath forgot to say he had an advisory on hicas arms :rofl:
  19. so you had all the above except tensioner :slap: thats the most important part to change regardless if it looked new did they replace the culprit small water hoses that run in to the block?
  20. or for the extra tenner pop up z-tech castrol RS and genuine filter and copper washer or DIY :p
  21. sorry aaron look in pic this is your culprit 100% order new cam sprocket seals as you can see in pic iv marked with red dots they simply pry out then press new one in a little clear gasket sealent helps just rub a bit around the outside of the seal to give it a nice seal to make it easier after removal of cam seal use old one to knock in new one it helps keep it go in straight and not kink,so you wont need to remove that cambelt or tensioner either :)
  22. no the auto has smaller turbos due to the slight drive loss of an auto smaller turbo housings spool quicker than a manual turbo so manual owners can opt for auto turbos to give a very slight increase in turbo response,also autos have slightly differant cams HTH greg ps..all this talk of 280 or 300hp is pants there all the same infact by now no 300 will give the same reading on a dyno ;)
  23. nice one matey :)

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