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greg

Dormant Member
  • Joined

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  • Country

    Ukraine

Everything posted by greg

  1. thats some good readings your gauge working ok :) i take it thats a rebuilt or very low mileage engine?
  2. sounds more like PTU failure or dirty injector connector,do a search for PTU and you can see how to fix etc,then go from there pull each coil pack out with car running if the revs dont drop on that particular cylinder,then thats the one at fault
  3. take credit card :wack: if not il send payment by some means early next week :cool:
  4. as above,dont use the spray adhesive its shit,use the stuff in the tin apply to both surfaces and leave for 5-10min then press together also it smells nice :wack:
  5. no its called the fookin suns in my eyes gave up every form of ***** on my 18th b day so 6years ago cheeky fooker i wont say what you look like,some banker :tongue:
  6. due to copyright etc you cant really call it that unless jwt supplied!its similar
  7. sorry to hear alan,i hope you get the right money back for it mate :( all the best greg
  8. it will be the same or very similar map to the jwt,the safest chip for the 300 incase ryan doesent respond back for you! greg
  9. if you look at all the figures they all have similar curves anyhow,its what power they make at midrange looking at the 2530s once they come in,they leave the t28 and sport 500s anyway the 18gs just climb and climb all the way :wack:
  10. funny that si,lil pinky follows your heart,and your going to the states 2+2 together send me the cheque later mate :tongue:
  11. well lets just see how the 2530s vs t28s fair on the road,rather than stats :cool: wont be long :dance:
  12. kev you have left the fridge out in the rain it has rust on the rear qtr :tongue: wheels look good though mate :cool:
  13. jack up front and support on axle stands directly at the bottom of the rad,there are 2lines - gearbox and return feed,decide where your fitting oil cooler,do not fit it infront of the radiator seen many people fit them there and defeats the object of cooling :wack: remove hoses from the metal lines and either cut back and plug or remove the hoses completly fit new cooler where you decide to fit it. run new hoses from cooler to metal lines which as said are situated under the rad running through the crossmember!conect and secure tightly with jubilee clips,make sure you run the correct line for feed and return! fill oil cooler with new oil job done,check oil from the dipstick when hot and make sure its at its corect level greg
  14. independant garages such as zen garage,z-tech or the like,IIRC will not supply turbo/s only as this may void the waranty due to fitment issues etc so best bet as lymon says go DIY or exchange your old tubbies from company like turbo tecnics etc etc
  15. agree with mike 2530s all the way
  16. yep as vijay says,check tps readings should be 0.42-0.44v at idle pic shows TPS and the place to take the reading from@idle ajust to the coorect readings above,if its out of spec by turning the TPS via loosening the 2x8mm screw top and bottom
  17. if its a minor leak it will be fine to travel,just keep an eye on levels,most people drive there car with a leaking main seal for thousands of miles and do nothing about it,so aslong as you sort it soonish,it will be fine
  18. hmm,heard about wheel nuts working loose,are they aftermarket or stock,how much thread is there to attach the nut/s to? check weekly and torque them to approx 85lb,if it happens agaoin it may be the wheel nuts,try a new set perhaps,could of been deadly at high speed :wack:
  19. as i said kev undo all the bolts to the wing,all along the side and one hidden inside the door,peel back carefully so you have room,place cable through gap and feed it up in to engine bay,run end that goes to the gauge,through where the stock speeker wires would go inside the rubber grommet then up under panel under the steer wheel,then up to gauge job done :)
  20. yes mate were based nr newbury so 15miles away from reading,drop him a call,im sure it would be ok to pop over for a checkover :cool: 07968166640
  21. Exactly or at least replace the rings
  22. 11c is normally for a NA ngk 11b are the slightly cooler ones you want ideal for a TT As for covering up the intake,just remove the fuel pump fuse before you start so you dont get a faceful of fuel :wack: remove all plugs then do comp test left side front to back cyl1 cyl3 cyl5 right side front to back cyl2 cyl4 cyl6
  23. not 100% clear but its just a case of see ahose,match it up and replace,not suitable IMO to use it on brake servo clutch booster etc,there are hidden hoses around the driverside rear of engine just remove bits and they will become obvious :cool:

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