ruishy1

Probably the best and worst idea so far !

BTW i could design better ones, but ive no cash spare to buy the stuff needed.

thats low carbon steel, which is pretty much everyday crap. There are hundreds of permutations and alloy steels. most medium carbon steels have a tensile strength of around 95k psi, 7075 t6 has around 75k psi. JoelyP im off work just now, broke my hand and damaged nerves and waiting on surgery. But after Wetlands ( not a sp error ;)) ive worked for GKN at filton 3 times, GKN at western approach, ryanair at prestwick, British Airways at prestwick, Airframe Components prestwick.and went to do a start at chester but the company moved the goalposts with workhours and overtime so left after a week.

Those are death waiting to happen, whoever designed them should be ashamed. Please stop banging on about the 7075. Im an aeronautical engineer to trade and have worked with everything from 2024 to 7075 to titanium. Its a good alloy, but its not indestructible and a medium carbon steel has a higher tensile strength than 7075 and the weight is difference is minimal for a bracket that size

its exactly those forces im worried about, plus the amount of thread engagement doesnt exactly inspire confidence. I would like some Destructive testing done on these to see what loads they can take, brakes are not something i would like to take a chance on. Dont get me wrong im all for adapting things to fit, those brackets are just a little on the soft side for my tastes.

Just because they are made of 7075 doesnt mean they are well engineeered. TBH there is not enough meat around all the mounting points for my liking. Minimum edge distance i would like is 2 x the diameter of the bolt

yup, make sure you put the hose in the inlet side of the cooling system, and have it on and running before you start the engine. It wont get rid of everything, but will get rid of most crud and return alot of your cooling systems efficiency

Nope wont do any damage, disconnect a rad hose and drain out the crap then flush it out using a garden hose

before you take it out, buy a pack of denture cleaning tablets, stick them in the rad, shut it and start the engine, it thouroughly cleans the rad and the rest of the water system :) Ive done it on loads of cars and even on newer cars where you think the rads are fine, loads of crap still get flushed out !

If you did an hpi check then they are definately supposed to give you compensation if the likes of this happens. otherwise why would anyone bother using them

That sucks mate, but tbh technically they cant resposses the car. If you bought the car in good faith then you own the vehicle, the finance is on the person not the car. IIRC its do with the 1974 consumer credit act. It was on TV last year, and all these places rely on people not actually knowing their rights. i

i prefer as a whole unit, but wholly depends on the car/engine. Most i like to drop it all down onto the floor and lift the chassis up and drag the engine out using a trolley

Ok ive just bought a 93 uk manual TT :D It does need welding but the turbos are fine so not changing them, the chassis legs done need welding, it just surface rust. NOZ ive sent you an email :)

Il see if i have a couple of MBC's kicking about, as i said though i need to do it all for less than £999 to qualify, i can sell bits off the car to help so hopefully can make a couple hundred back. il pm you tonight mate

Just because its done cheap, doesnt mean its been done wrong. The car will be serviced and checked over once the engine has been removed and put back in ( to do the turbos and welding on the chassis legs. Fitting different turbos where they are in the efficiency island rather than just upping the boost and pushing the standard ones beyond that so they put out hot air is a mistake. the engien needs to come out to change a turbo so why not fit something that improves the breathing of the engine. And as for the exhaust you wont notice the increase, but it will make a difference and in conjunction with the other basic tuning mods provides the engine with an easier time to draw in and expel gases. trust me i know a fair bit about engines and i am more than capable of tuning the VG on a budget without it blowing up. NOZ, thanks for that il have a look for some subaru yellow's then, ive actually got some old intercoolers kicking about so i might make up my own replaceement side mounts and improve the ducting while im at it. As for exhaust il see if i can find a cheap ebay one, i can tig my own exahust, but by the time ive bought enough 3 inch stainless, i wouldnt be far off the price of a new one. Ive got numerous mig tips so will see what size is needed for the boost il require ( il decide that after more research) Il drop you a message about a remap NOZ and see if we can do a deal etc :) BTW im getting the car for 400 quid :D

Im hopefully getting a very cheap TT on friday, and because its so cheap i want to enter the PPC £999. It needs a new turbo so thought about fitting some 200sx T25's. Ive been trying to find info on what is needed but cant find any so could someone point me in the right direction ? Also ive been looking at 3sgte 430cc injectors but waiting on a message back to find out if they are high or low impedance ( they are denso side feed and should fit by the looks of them) Has anyone had good results using ebay stuff ? mainly SMIC and full exhausts systems ? Any pointers would be appreciated ;)

the low spec t56 can handle 850ft/lbs of torque before it starts struggling ! thats some serious power needed to break one :O If you plan on upgrading your power levels, it might be a wise investment. ive been looking at these boxes for my soarer project and they seem to do nicely

make sure to put oil in the filter rather than just in the sump, it helps speed up oil circulation

depends where you are based. the garage in motherwell i would highly recommend. marc light is a very knowledgeable chap, helpful and his prices are competetive aswell

they are on ebay, 75 quid BIN. the discs have virtually no lip

its just the fronts i have mate, they are basically the same as the z32 brakes, small differences and all alloy so drastically lighter !

i would put a little oil in the bores, dunno bout the engine, as it wont be able to pump it round

ive got a set of r33 gts calipers discs etc you can have cheap, they are alloy and an extra 20mm dia than 300 brakes so cheap upgrade :) the r32 gtr calipers are the same as r33 gts ones. they r33 gtr ones are brembo and 326mm IIRC

very nice mate, i love skylines, ive got a soft spot for my cousins, nismo 400 front like yours, similar skirts, genuine gtr rear soiler, FMIC, hks hypermax 2 and 18 inch ultralite twin 5's :) in a lovely silver

well stage 1 or 2 ! lol not really sure as stages dont really mean squat :smash: