Steams

Strange you say that bud, my sills are wired into your car as well. :laugh:

I would have thought that you would need a version made for the ipad os, unless it has a very good windows emulator, then you could run it through the emulator. I don't do Apple so don't know much about them. lol

My rears are the wrong way round :turned: Done by my wheel refurber putting the wrong tyres on the wrong wheels. lol I've no idea how affective the "cooling" is when they are the right way round....

What like the TPS and the ICV? The o2's don't really do anything until they are up to temp and the engine rpm is above 2000rpm. You need to get the engine above 2000 to test them. They should pulse up and down smoothly.

On first glance, your TPS is a little high set it to 0.44v (don't forget to pull the lead for 10secs while engine running to reset). After you've done that the idle looks to be high as well wind the screw back to bring it down to 750rpm. Try that first to see if it's any better :)

You should have one for each calliper. They replace only the flexi line so you need to screw them between the the two hardpipes that are left. HTH

This site will convert your bhp to kW for you. I'd recommend that you use the book bhp figures for a TT. i.e. 276BHP = 203 kW http://www.ramair-filters.com/calc.html EDIT: Unless yours is an N/A of course. lol

Run your scan mate then post up the results, that way we can tell you if anything is off etc...

Was going to say try pressing SHIFT instead, but since I don't do Apple stuff I wasn't sure that it would be the same as a windows setup... Anyway, have you tried using shift? :laugh:

Not doubting you bud, I had exactly the same problem with my o/s rear wishbone. I could have sworn that just after I bought a s/h one, Luke started offering them on zcentre's web site. Can't see them know though, so maybe I dreamt it. :blink:

Great pics as usual bud. Both your cars are looking fantastic as well :punk:

They sure are ;)

What he said..........except the bit about phoning you. lol

I was under the impression that you could get the rear wishbone balljoints separately now?

Welcome matey :)

That's what I'm thinking too....

Not sure, it could be a few things. If you can get a photo that would help a great deal.

Yes it does connect to the boost sensor via a T piece to the boost sender and the AIV solenoid. The safest way to ensure that it's not causing a boost leak is to delete it fully from the vac line. Another common leak problem is the pipe going to the underside of the boost sender. It becomes brittle with age and can split underneath the sender. It's worth checking that it's still in one piece and doesn't have a split in it.

That's why we all love the zed mate. :lol:

Nice one matey, thanks for supporting the club for another year :thumbup1:

Hello Poodle, welcome to the club :) The pipe hanging down looks to be your AIV, it would have connected to the stock cats. There should be one on each side. I would say that the AIV has been deleted at some point and the pipe has been left hanging. It shouldn't be causing you any problems. If you want to remove it completely; the other end of the pipe connects to a filter box behind the wings (one each side) just unbolt and remove. It's a very common delete. Check here for full instructions on how to get rid ; http://s95014253.onlinehome.us/63104/137858.html?*session*id*key*=*session*id*val* As for the oil pressure, it could well be that the stock pressure sender is on it's way out. It's a common problem. I would recommend that you get separate gauges for both Oil pressure and turbo boost for piece of mind. HTH EDIT: doh, far to slow...

:lol::lol:

oooh, that looks the nuts mate. :thumbup:

Make sure you wear it the right way round mate or it'll look like you've followed thru' :lol:

It looks like you have a fault with the power to the abs ecu. It might be a faulty ECU or could be something simple like a blown fuse.