Doobs too

I've just taken delivery of oil temp and oil pressure gauges. They both have senders (sensors) with them. My question is, are all oil pressure sendors the same, i.e. can I replace the one on the car with the new one and wire both gauges (new one and OEM one on the dash) into it or do I have to have both senders installed? Thanks guys, Al. P.S. I got a boost gauge as well so I can finally tell what boost I'm running :hyper: . Is there a rough guide to expected BHP vs. boost pressure? Sorry, one last question, I also got a set of the same gauges for my brother who has an S14a, do these have oil pressure senders as standard or does he have to get the sump drilled and tapped?

Sunday is good for me, what time?

Anyone know of any scrapped Z's in South Essex area? I know someone mentioned this before but wouldn't it make a good form subject? sxoc have one, usefull when I owened a 200.

Thanks mate.

Does anyone know where the article is that shows how to mount the front panel from a turbo timer remotely from the body of the time. He used a 1 foot long piece of ribon connector to fit the two together, which I want to do, but I can't get hold of the ribbon, any ideas?

Some coincidence there, I've been a fan since owning a Turbo'd Bluebird. Did you have an S13 in between?? Are there different air con units then? I don't have fan blade lights or arrows showing where the air is blowing (it seems to come out of all of the vents at the same time!).

Could have been me, I was down there at one point today. Didn't see you though, sorry. I've been plagued with dodgy throttle response while it's cold so I was probably concentrating on that, guess I should have been watching the road!!

Russ, you don't live in Southend, you lucky bast... Anyway, Cand apple red, sounds nice, any pics?? Al

You're not "Westminster Drive Russ" are you Russ?

Mines a dark blue import BTW but I never see any others while I'm in it, only when I'm on my bike :confused: Is candy apple red the solid red colour or a re spray?

Maybe I notice them more since I got mine but I've seen 4 in the last couple of weeks. One Purple with outrageous body kit, but it does live opposite my flat so I've seen it every day for the last couple of years. One red UK in Westcliff Another Red one in Westcliff Yellow one on the front between S'end and Shoebury Any more for me to spot? Is there some reason they are so popular here, appart from the fact they are sh1t hot?

I'm facing the same thing, not in the big city but in sodding Southend FFS. I have to live here due to it being one of the chepest places near work that isn't a complete dive. I'm a bit gutted actually, stuck because as soon as i buy the prices will dive, if I don't buy I'll never be able to because the prices will never dive! Can you hear those violins playing, just for me? :cry: Love the car though, I still can't think of a better car for the price. When the bills get too much think about the poor saps paying £250+ a month for half of a deeply boring comuter box that doesn't make them half as happy as my Z makes me.

Get the others machined once you've replaced them, ready for next time. the minimum thickness for a particular disc should be cast into the side of it.

My speedo reads 5 MPH down at 100, so 165 is about right.

I'd like to come but I have a long standing arrangement (i.e. can't get out of it!!) that weekend. I've heard some people meet at the Halfway House (127) of a Sunday, but I can't find anymore details, don't think it's just a Z thing, more a jap cars meet.

Thanks Mike, questions answered. I just looked at your pictures in Rides section, thinking I might have seen you around sunny Southend and there is a picture of a lunched bottom end. I hope this was not the result of affore mentioned mod!!

Tell her it'll be cheaper then replacing the Focus with a new car. I haven't worked it out but I've heard enough depreciation horror stories (Focus aside, good residuals, but she doesn't need to know that!) to know that getting an old car at the bottom of it's depreciation curve is cheaper then buying new. OK it might use a bit more petrol but if you do the basic maintenance yourself, with the aid of the plethora of tech info on here it should add up. My girlfriend doesn't really know what it is all about, all she says is that it can't be as good as the old car (S13 200SX) because it doesn't have flippy up lights, FFS. We passed an MX5 tonight and she said, "ooo, a car just like yours" :mac1: Good girl really, just doesn't get the car thing!

Just had a look under the bonnet and the hard pipes between the intercooler and intake manifold have a connection to this vacuum loom but I can't see anything mounted in them, although hey do dissapear out of sight for a while. I'm going to get a gauge to check the boost. At the risk of sounding like a muppet what is a jet/bleed boost upgrade (I guess it ups the boost, duurr). Is it to do with messing with the dump valve? Is it reasonably safe (in terms of turbo life etc)? What about fueling and det?

I don't know what the car has had done, it was an import. It has an aftermaket exhaust and filter but that is all I know. The boost gauge does go all the way to the far right, I thought it was supposed to sit between last to marks? Is that just poor OEM gauges?

I've found what appears to be a redundant vacuum hose. It is T'd off another vacuum pipe but it doesn't go anywhere. It has what appears to be a restricter held in place with a clip at the open end (i.e. opposite end to the T). When I found it it was poked down in front of the battery, giving the appearance it did something, but i pulled on it and it obviously wasn't attached. Bit of a vague description I know, sorry, Monday is too long! I've checked the vacuum loom diagram and I can't see it. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

If you are talking about the grease, put it on the back of the pad and on all of the shims, if there are any. The wear indicators should not make a noise if they aren't touching the discs, and it shouldn't really make a difference which pad carries the indicator, inside or out.

SRREA is right, leave them to bed in for a while. Old calliper seals don't 'roll back' fully so the pads contact the discs more then they should. It is normal not to be able to see air between the pads and discs, but the hubs should spin by hand (out of gear, both rear wheels off the ground). Were the pads hard to squeeze in? Also loosen the brake fluid reservoir lid. If the vent is blocked there may be some residual pressure in the system causing the pads to bind. In the 14 days I've had my Z I haven't had to do the rear brakes yet so i don't know their configuration. However, if they are like other Jap brakes there will be thin metal plates between the pads and anchor bracket / calliper. Take these out while the pads bed in to give the callipers some breathing space (they are only there to suppress squel) and put them back when the pads have worn enough to allow them to slip back in easily. Also apply copper grease to the back of the pads.

Hi5, Slow...SLOW....you must be joking. I had an S13 (200SX) before my Z and that didn't hang about, but the 300 is simply awsome. Unless you get to drive 300+ BHP cars on a regular basis you will not be dissapointed, if you drive a 16v Probe every day you will be gob smacked. They do look heavy but they feel light on their feet once moving at a respectable velocity. As to looks, eye of the beholder as with anything. Personally I think they are lovely but I am a die-hard Nissan fan. I've had mine 10 days now and I've never looked back :) Seriously, they are sh1t hot. I challenge you to find a better GT car for the money.........see, you can't do it!

Simon, Nice one, just what I needed in one handy link :cool: Looks like a filter change one the horizon, thank god it's pay day tomorrow! Even if there is some bias in the article, the HKS is wet which I don't want. Thanks Al

Now that you lot have reassured me the goose honk issue is nothing serious, I can confirm it's due to an after market induction kit, a sodding great mushroom of a thing with HKS written on it. Lads at work :rofl: when I told them about goose honk! It looks a bit dirty so I was thinking about changing the element. I serched the forums to see if it was a wet or dry filter and to be honest I still don't know. I did read that it was "apparently a good filter" and someone commented on "all of the bad reviews of the HKS" compared with an Apex-i one. :confused: I know the issue about the AFM and oiled filters. So, is it a dry filter? If so can I clean it and dry with hair dryer, or do I need a new element? If it is dry how is it worse then any other dry filter? Thanks guys, again. :bow: