Doobs too

"same ECU on a bog standard C180 as they do on a AMG36" Same ECU but different calibations. As John says, it's not simple, there are many variables. ABS is not simply reacting to wheel speed sensor signals, it has some predictive capability also. This is partly to enhance the ABS function, partly because the ABS system also controls the front / rear balance to prevent premature rear wheel lock up. As for how the system will be affected by fitting different hardware, it is difficult to predict. There is a certain amount of lee way built in for variables such as friction variation, temperature etc. If the modification is a big one such as huge new brakes the effect on the ABS will be significant, if it's just an effective radius increase the effect will be small. Best way to tell is through others experience, or commisioning Teves or Bosch to perform an ABS re-calibration. As this will take 18 months, cost quite a few million quid and involve shipping your car to Sweden, Spain etc it's probably not practical.

It is possible, my brother is doing that for me.

As much as i like the look of big wheels I hav to agree with you. Nissan will have done all of their suspension development on 16" and tuned the ride to their parameters,to change just undoes all of that work

For the next person searching for info on how to do this, there is now an FAQ in the general section.

Not sure Greg, it looked like it was coming from the metal pipe bolted to the pump. Thanks for the service manual link but I really need a Heynes syle instruciot, remove this that and the other, noddy style (I'm a bit thick you see ;)). I'll have a gfo again in a min and let you know.

Can anyone help please? I've got the rad out and the adjustment mechanism off the front of the pump. I've also removed the pully and the bolt behind it but the pump won't budge! Is it held in with magic? It doesn't even move!! Thanks guys. NB is there a source of info on PAS system on the Z? I've searched threads back as far as 2003 and everytime someone asks about PAS system everything seems to go quiet!

Can anyone confirm that the 300ZX (JDM TT) brake pads are the same as S14 200SX (the later one with the evil headlights, not the first S14 with R33 headlights, might be called S14a, don't know)?

Got mine now, seems I jumped the gun! Thanks.

Scottywil, I still haven't got anything.

Sorry for the wait, I've been away. My choice is, "K: One complete set of new coil pack connectors and injector connectors. CD workshop manual with Japanese Z DVD" Thanks for setting up the raffle, especially for picking my number!!

I might be moving there for a couple of years to work in Hiroshima. Can anyone tell me what it is like? I imagine it is pretty different. Will I have to marry the girlfriend to get her on my visa :shock: , and if so will she be able to work? I know the cost of living is higher but do Engineers earn more out there then here (please say yes, the compny will match local wages :dance: )? I'll deal with the "can you send me a ..." in another post :)

krsmayo, Press and hold the MAGIC key until the rabbit comes out of the hat (I think the designer was on acid) then press 9 8 9. If the IR indicator blinks 4 times the tilt switch is off, 2 times it's on. Once it is off you have to press the screen to switch it on.

The worst tasting drnk was garlic vodka, instant barf juice. Strough rum is pretty rum, 80% vol from somewhere in Europe. I also had Barbed Wire in South Africe, 80% also but pineapple flavoured and actually quite nice considering.

Shows what I know, I changed the oil and the noise has gone! Thanks guys.

"What does this knob do?" crash, burn. :x: You might find that some vans without ABS use a twin valve which adjusts from the rear suspension height. Adapting one of these might be a posibility, then both circuits will adjust at once.

Or you use two.

1/ Buying my Z 2/ Buying my Z 3/ Buying my Z It's been a mediocre year!!

If you put the T's in consider running one pipe from each port on the master cylinder to a front brake and the other to the opposite rear brake (i.e. front left and rear right on the same circuit). This is a legal requirement for passenger cars in Europe and a safety thing. If a circuit goes down because of a leak then you always have brake force at both ends of the car and both sides. The legal aspect applies to new car designs, not sure about modifications, don't know what the MOT bloke would make of it (if he notices ;) ) The ABS can't cope with different callipers because it is not a purely reactive system, the software has a certain amount of 'knowledge' in that it knows the relationship between line pressure and brake force so it knows how to modulate. A larger calliper will alter this relationship and cause the ABS to control the wheel poorly (although a well tuned system will always find the limit of tyre / road adhesion it is what it does after this point that is affected by a calliper swap).

Good point Krooz, thanks.

Tick tick, tap tap, who knows? Thanks for the oil comments but I'm not convinced. I already use 5W/40 fully synthetic and use engine flush before each change and the car is my daily driver so it does get lots of use. It is getting an oil change this weekend so I'll see if that clears it up. The belt tensioner explanation sounds interesting as my tap is once every two revs also. I know the belt was done some time ago but the invoice doesn't mention the tensioner, it was done by Nissan but that is no guarantee is it!!

.....once every two engine revs (ie about 8 times per second @ 1000 rpm). Only under part throttle, it goes when I lift off. It is drowned out by ambient noise in anything over 2nd gear and over 2K in 1st. Otherwise it is noticable. As it is approx once every 2 revs is it an injector or something to do with a coil pack or plug? I haven't tried anything to solve it yet, haven't changed plugs etc as I thought you lot might be able to point me in the right direction before I started (what a lazy barsteward!). Apart from the noise the car is OK in terms of engine performance. Any ideas gents?

I've got the same problem but I've only fitted the RH bracket so far (waiting for fuel lines, now got them but it's too cold to work on the car!). Mine is a Courtesy brace with similar / same brackets as yours. There is a hole in the blanket where the bracket has worn through. I think I'll grind the bracket as the bonnet is Al and I don't think it will take a lot of beating up. I'm sure it will rattle aftewards, sort of wish I didn't get the bloody thing now (brace, not car). Has anyone who uses their car daily removed the blanket with no probs?

Oh there it is. How do I post it up full size?

Very doomed, I've no idea how this picture was taken but I imagine it resulted in a long hospital stay afterwards. I'd post the full piucture up but I'm a bit slow and I can't work out how to do it. I thought I'd attached it to this post but it doesn't seem to be there when I preview it.

As long as you do everything up tight you will be OK. You'll have 3 boost gauges then, including the one in the IP?