Doobs too

Craigs post got me thinking, is anyone on here slighty famous or do a job where ordinary people, like me, would have heard of you. Work for a car mag, spot on TV, car featured in a magazine, double platinum album etc etc?

How did it go Craig??

http://www.300zx.co.uk/cgi-bin/manual.cgi

BTW, I used to love CCC when it was alive, don't much like it's replacement, not enough spanners!

Good luck Craig. Sorry, I don't read CAR, in fact I don't read many car mags these days because I hate the whole 'Brand' thing that all journalists seem to subscribe to. They help OEM's push the myth that badge matters when it quite clearly does not (can you tell I crive a Nissan ;) ) Having said that, what a job, you jammy g1t.

I think the import ones are softer, and if this is the case they won't match the spring rates and the ride and handling will be all over the place. Also the fronts will still be harder UK spec, again destroying the handling.

Cheers John, it now works. Still oil pressure and temp to go, a job for next week I think.

I started fitting a boost gauge today but I'm not sure which pipe I should break into to fit the T piece. At the moment i've got the pipe from the gauge through the fire wall on the drivers side (near the brake booster). It's quite short and will only reach to the LHS of the engine (as you look at it). I've search previous threads but everyone seems to hook up to the pipe on the passenger side (the one into the large hex connector thing, a tehnical term :), where the std boost sender is connected ). There is a small pipe connected to the pipe betwen the LHS IC and plenum. Can I break into this one? If not why not, surely it will be the same pressue as the manifold? As ever, any help gratefully appreciated.

I can't see how a shock would cause vibration, and if it was gone you'd notice the ride was 'wobbly' over bumps. It's more likely to be something out of balance, or a wheel bearing. Does the vibration go away under braking or get worse round corners? Prop shaft centre bearings are known to fail easily on Z's and cause vibration at speed.

The NSX is a 'better' car from a journalists point of view, but try to get one for 5K and use it every day, in this category the Z knocks spots of anything, can't get more reliable BHP per £. With the age of these cars you got to compare them in terms of price vs. performance and here the Z wins, no debate.

Does anyone know if you should use plumbers tape to seal the threads? Is there any risk having small bits of PTFE in the oil (some is sure to come adrift). Don't mean to hijack your thread Simax, this might help you also.

The gauges I have use one sender each but they came with a 4 way block so you can use the original pressure sender fitting to fit all three (if you keep the original pressure sender for the OEM gauge). This assumes there is room for this assembly in the original sender location, I haven't fitted mine yet. The only way one sender could be used is if it contained both temp and pressure sensors, so it would be two senders just housed together. This is because the principle used to convert temp / press to an electrical signal is different for each property. If such a thing exists and you replaced the OEM pressure sender with it then you would loose function to the dash mounted press gauge, no real biggy as you'd have your after market gauge.

IIRC the oil pressure switch is down near the oil filter under the engine.

You might find the yearly subscription for the tracker outweighs the saving on the policy.

I didn't got to Mean Street, 'cause I didn't know where it was. Went to Southend though and met RonTTUK and John but we left before 10. Saw JD'S-Z beifly, nice paint job mate. Good to meet you Ron and John, let me know if you hook up again and I'll come and say hello.

Jap cars being soft has little to do with cost to Nissan at the point of manufacture and lots ot do with what the market is deemed to find acceptable. UK cars aren't more expensive then Jap ones because of the spec, it's because that's what the market will stand. Springs and dampers cost OEM's the same whatever their setting (although I'll admit the UK rears are adjustable which would have cost a little more). The cost of service parts bares little relation to their cost to the OEM at the point of manufacture. Most service parts cost 10X what the OEM paid for them at the plant. OK, volumes are less then they were when the car was in production but OEM's make huge amounts of money out of their service parts supply operations, often offestting the losses they make in manufacture.

I could cope with a few days off work due to fuel protests, I think it is the only thing that will make any difference. As said above this is all due to massive government taxes, I got back from France today and thier petrol is cheaper then our (not a lot admitedly) but their diesel is much cheaper, 0.80 Euro / litre, so it isn't OPEC or Esso. It is Tony and Gordon. BTW the plane ride back costs 7 Euro's, no tax on their fuel, and I bet challenger tanks don't pay fuel duty either.

IIRC WD40 knackers hydrualic seals, causes them to go sticky. You deffinatly need a seal kit, if the pistoncleans up OK it should clear the problem. The piston is unlikely to have a ridge worn in it inless the seal was contaminated with grease. Also bleed the system well to purge any WD40. I don't know it's boiling point but I bet its less then brake fluid and if there is any left in there when the brakes get hot it will boil and reduce the pressure to that brake and the diagonally oposite one significantly increasing your stopping distance. Kits are easy enough to fit, the difficult bit is getting a decent bleed afterwards. Make sure that when you remove the old seals you dont scratch the sealing surface of the calliper body or the piston. Use a solvent to clean them up, again make sure it's all gone before assembling and bleeding the circuit. NB if there is any corrosion or scoring inside the caliper or on the surface of the piston then you need a new calliper. You can change callipers one at a time but if the disc or pads are knackered on one side then change the whole axle set.

The HICAS won't cause the car to drop, sounds suspension related.

Gutted for you mate, hope it gets sorted quickly. If you had of been speeding surely you would have caused him more damage.

What about the weekend after, the 6th June?

30th May??

All of the above. TBH I get NO respect for the car, my colegues take the pi55, I work for a major US OEM (in Essex, need I say more!). The problem is the fastest car they can get on the "scheme" is only 220BHP and I can waste them all, green eyed monster is rempant in my office!

I think you'd be better off shopping around for a decent insurance quote then trying to find a UK car with the spec you list (especially 50K on the clock). I got cover for £800 on an import TT manwell, and it is unlimited miles and parked on the side of the road in the Gaza Strip area of Southend. It took me 4 months to find a decent TT manwell and I wasn't descriminating against imports. Manwells are just very rare.

Any ideas on the ribbon connector peeps? Someone on here must have done this, I've tried every electrical repair and computer shop in Southend and scoured the WEB, I can't believe these things are so hard to get hold of, I must be missing something. I tried Mr Orion who wrote the artical by the email address is no longer valid. Thanks in advance chaps, this is driving me up the wall, and the timer is still sat on my table.