icewhitebear

We're also coming, small convoy of 2 zeds from Bath area. Leaving about 7am hopefully. See you all in Tescos around 9 ish

Just put mine back to stock shifter last weekend, just couldn't get on with it. Messed up the synchro slightly and didn't want to do any further damage. Personally wouldn't bother as stock is much smoother.

I have a Auto box and updated oil cooler if that's your preferred option. Check out for sale section.

Hi mate, the tt flywheel is slightly bigger and will not fit inside the n/a bell housing unless you shim the inside slightly, I have a N/A gearbox in my TT and put the TT lightened flywheel and stage 3 clutch from F1 and have no problems , done several track days round castle Combe and clutch feels fine. Just thought if using a TT flywheel on a N/A gearbox you need to space out the starter motor to accommodate the size differance Hope this helps.

Cheers Znut I will,

All soldered correct and defiantly on pin 23. Am picking up another resistor tomorrow, am thinking the same Znut, must be faulty resistor, no other reason really. I let you know the result!

So what else can be causing the code to return?

Decided at weekend to finally bypass the knock sensor as running on safety mode. Knock sensor appears to have no resistance or harness has broken down. After much time researching wire diagrams, the sensor has one wire from ECU pin 23 and this is the signal wire and the other wire being shielding around it which is ground. Basically a coaxial cable. My problem is that I have tried the 1 m ohmn resistor trick at the Harness ECU side and no luck, still getting code 34. I then decided to take it right back to the ECU to eliminate faulty wire. I have done the following, picked up pin 23 on ECU HARNESS and soldered 1m ohmn resistor then grounded it to engine block. Reset ECU clear codes, start engine run for about 30sec turn off. Check codes Code 34 is BACK! Am guessing the resistance is wrong? Any suggestion

Hi everyone, add me and my brother to the list. We were at jap fest and live near bath so this would be a nice drive. Hopefully we should have done the manual box conversion in the grey ( brothers ) z by then as driving back from jap fest auto box decided to blow. Great time to convert as we just sourced all parts from local breakers for £300 bargain.

fabricated myself as a prototype, looking to modify design at some point in new year. Cheers for intrest.

cheers for advice, and it wasnt me at zedworld so some bugger copied me! did get alot of intrest at combe this year.

Fitting manual over xmas and after some advice or recommended clutchs, its twin turbo and running about 350 bhp. Looking to do couple of track days at castle combe next year. Prefer not to have stiff pedal.

Also be going only, 6 miles, no excuse

sorry guys am out. BLOWN my drivers side turbo on sunday. S..t .

sounds good, will try to make it also. possibly two others from melksham and trowbridge who have just rebuilt there Zeds.

hi mate, i had something similar to this and was convinced i had a top end noise, got a good mechanic mate of mine and checked with long probe on top of block not cam covers! and digonoised it being a bottom end noise i was not convinced, but i pulled the engine and it turned out my main bearings and crank had seen better days. Hope its not the case for you but you seemed to covered most over things, May be a compression test? and what is oil pressure like.

Hi mate is it a manual or auto, if auto make sure you undo the the four bolts holding the torque converter to the flywheel before removing box, if you dont then you risk damaging the shaft /spline this attaches to. If you opt to drop the cross member rather than tilt engine back just remeber to mark bolt heads, it likely you never get it back where it was meaning the wheel allignment will change. If you need help i only live down the road in BATH and i got a hoist you can borrow.

Cheers for the the advice guys, hopefully get chance to work on it at weekend, i think am going to test the oil pressure as mate has leant me a tester gauge that screws in where the sender unit is, hopefully this will tell me if my gauge is reading correct. If bearings were worn surely the knocking would happen at start up from cold, mine seems to be fine its only when engine starts to warm up and i rev that i get this knocking.

Hi just after some advice on what maybe causing this noise. I ve had cylinder heads refurbed and turbos also rebuilt as car was smokey, these were done by specialished people. All dismantling and and refitting i have done myself with engine in car (crazy lol). With everthing carefully put back the engine started first time and with a few tweaks with the coil pack plugs where going great, oil pressure, temperture all ok. I been on a few test drives and has been running great, but now just started to develop knocking/Tappy noise only when reved up. Not had chance to seriously delve into it yet but am thinking timing/cam belt/ cam gears. Any ideas.