chunder

nice one fella! i bet the drive back after a hard day at work has taken a slightly more tame note.

i hope you weren't refering to me...:slap:

im afraid i dont entirly follow your problem, however for what its worth, all the plasticy linkages etc. on the drivers side on mine were a bit wonkey and one of them actually snapped. i just took my self off the the scrappy, pulled a couple of micras appart and hey presto... not a perfect match but not far off and it all works perfectly.

would this be an engine out job?

Righto. thought id better round this off incase someone searched this tread. The main problem was that the timing was out by a bit. The CAS plug may not have been in properly and the det sensor is shorting or just plain broke and has now been bypassed with a resistor jammed in the plug. it is now running with full power but can be a tiny bit hesitant or very slightly jerky (sounds like the CAS plug may need a clean or the timing is still a bit out) Huge thanks to BIGSSS for most of a days fettling and switchig parts, Berrica for the timing and datascan which showed the det sensor fault and the chap (whose name i have sadly forgotton [will try to remember to rectify] )at hermiston gait meeting that gave and fitted the resistor. jamie.

Thanks guyes. Nice to meet you all! would like to extend a special thanks to Andy for the datascan and timing and of course the chap who gave me the resistor ( sorry mate, i've already managed to forget your name, damn good of you all the same.) who together have more or less managed to fix ma car. cheers, Jamie.

haha, righto. cheers.

It may be a bit embarrasing turning up in my pile of wreckage, but assuming no one takes offence then i would like to pop over for a bit. That is assuming i can get away from work at a reasonable hour.

smashing. thank you very much. :edit: sorry, i ment not just have the pm function. on her list it asks for membership number and i was wanting it from the list. Thanks though, ill wait the few days, im failrly patient...

thanks bigsss, yeah i dont think the coilpacks are the problem, cheers though andyp. Hey, thanks Berrica! very decent of you. within about 2mins of pulling away from yours it started behaving very badly, totally missing all the fires, it got a bit better after 10 mins or so so i decided to continue home, but on the a89 or whatever to avoid a breakdown on the m8. By Edinburgh it seemed a lot better so caught the end of the m8 to join the bypass...oh dear, slowly got it up to seventy and then all hell broke loose. the rev guage started jolting wildly as did the car then it all went to poop and i ended up doing about 10mph down the hard sholder untill i got to hermiston gate and popped the hood. turns out the plug connectin the CAS was only just in, you may have knocked it loose when you were tightening the unit back up. Any way, to the point... it seems now to not be misfiring at all. Dont know if the knock sensor is still fooked(thus running on safety boost), but the major problem seemingly solved YAY! thankyou soooo much. Would still appreciate feedback on the datascan that berrica very kindly did for me as it looks like alot of other things need tweeked. thanks again, jamie.

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=85601 Just wondering how often the above link was updated so i can pm 300zxgirl my details. cheers, Jamie.

right, thanks evryone for the contributions. ill have a word with Berrica, try to get the datascan done on tuesday then ill let you know what it finds, if nout ill have to ask about some of the things reccomended... fingers crossed jamie

Up date: ok things that it is not - temp sensor, injectors, faulty spark plugs, coil packs & plugs, ptu, ecu, afm, air/oil/fuel filters The plugs/coils were & injectors have only been tested at idle but car is deffo running on all cylinders untill asked for full boost where all cylinders seem to fail and loads of fuel is dumped into the exhaust system and it goes 'pop' please, please, please any suggestions? anybody around the Lothians with a diognostic machine and a bit of spair time would be a massive help! Also id like to extend my massive appreciation to BIGSSS who was awsome. Extremly generouse with his time, tools, experience and bits for the car. After spending alot of today fettling, swapping bits over we have at least eliminated a big stack of things. Top man! nice one, Jamie.

haha, righto. ill try to get it done tomorrow as i need the pm function to get hold of the chap wth the data scan thingamy as well.

Thanks Dan. Ill let you know if and when i need this to see if you still got it in stock. BIGSSS; If that offer still stands that would be brilliant. My tax runs out by the end of the month so if i could pop round before that it would be perfect, if not, dosn't matter, ill have to renew at some point anyway. I don't have any commitments over the next couple of weeks i can't escape from ( can get out of work with minimal notice). So as i said, if you are still ok with it whenever would suit you! ill put a shout up on for someone with a diognistic machine. Smashing! jamie.

ptu not pcu

lovin' the reply speed! i am based between Edinburgh and North Berwick, a wee toon called Haddington. any assistance would be awsome! but in the mean time im not sure that taking the coil pack out at rest would show anything as it it fine at idle, only when it is being asked to nail it and sometimes just general acceleration (when it has been on the go for a while) will it misfire. taa, also what is a stage 1 and 2 pcu and prices?

right, there is a wee bit on these two http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=112281&page=2 and the other one dosn't seem to want to hiper link but there is nothing of any use there (search "missfires and spoilers" by chunder" if you realy want to see it as for what i have done "i have changed the oil, all filters (air, oil and fuel), spark plugs, cleaned the temp sensor (little yellow plug at center front) and changed the coil pack plugs as these were brittle and shaking loose. I have also put a new exhaust, cats back, on since if it makes any difference" will need to make some friends with zeds nice one. Jamie.

sorry, forgot to add there is white smoke coming out of mainly the driver's side exhaust for a couple of mins on a cold start, i know its fairly common and probably ok but don't know it it has any relevance.

Calder Motor Company, East Calder, 01506 880411 went to this one the other day and the chap i saw had absoutly no knowledge of the 300. i think they run a good garage, but not for 300s just a heads up. if i find a good'un ill let you know.

righto, i've had this up before but nothing seems to have worked. It started about 50miles after a spin off with no impact damage to anything further forward than the doors(no fuel lines crimped). thought may be completly nonrelated. It just didnt want to accelerate, put-put-putting under power. took it home and tried it a couple of days later and all seemed well untill after about 50 miles it started to do the same, but not as bad as before, could still accelerate but only gently. Went out in it a couple of other times and it was on the whole fine (mabe a single misfire once evry now and again)untill... i was out in it most of the day without many problems and got into town and it would barely manage to pull away from a set of lights or up a hill. Took it home. Left it to cool (2hours max) and it was fine untill it got hot, now it has started to do it as soon as it is warm. i have changed the oil, all filters (air, oil and fuel), spark plugs, cleaned the temp sensor (little yellow plug at center front) and changed the coil pack plugs as these were brittle and shaking loose. I have also put a new exhaust, cats back, on since if it makes any difference. now it all goes a little over my head with injectors and god knows what else that may be wrong. However as it only seems to happen under full throttle and when warm which would suggest to me some sort of sensory fault. Possibly one of the coil packs is caput, how would i go about checking this and what is the likleyhood? please help as this has me on my knees close to tears:headvswal also if anybody knows a good garage for 300s in edinbugh as the one listed's knoledge of the car was, no offence, thouroughly pants. Cheers, Jamie.

thanks chap. Just as well you pointed that out. and thanks to the rest my mind is at ease now! still wondering about the rubber thingamy in the fuel filter. thanks b19rks. someone has done this job in the past and not known to switch it so i don't have one at all, nevermind. cheers.

Right i was changing the air filters on my 300 and was rather shocked to find this wreckage Firstly, how on earth do you think this happened as there is no damage to the lower guard, o2 sensor or any shrapnel. Secondly is it important? And thirdly, can i replace it or do i have to buy the whole unit? (for those who havn't cottened on yet its one of the mesh sceens that is at either end of the oxygen sensor unit situated between the two air filters at the front of the car.[this being the upper guard]) My second topic is that of the fuel filter. there is supposed to be a 3" long section of rubber tube within the "in" nozzle on the fuel filter, and i am wondering what its purpose is as i dont seem to have one. thanks all, Jamie

hope this helps, not entirly sure it is i direct answer to the question. jamie.

To begin a diag it is best to take a short drive 2 or 3 miles to ensure full working temperature has been obtained first.and then switch OFF the engine With overdrive switch in on position and lever in P switch on ignition but do not start engine,the A/T lamp should lit up for about two seconds then go out. Switch off the ignition and move selector lever to D also switch OFF the overdrive, switch the ignition ON but do not start the car. With the ignition still ON and after more than 2 seconds move the lever to 2 follow this by switching the overdrive switch ON.Then move the lever to 1, and set the overdrive switch to OFF. Still with the ignition on depress the accelerator pedal fully and release it. The A/T check light will now flash the appropriate blink code as deatiled below. After this to retrurn to normal switchOFF the ignition and move lever to P and set the overdrive back ON. Fault codes are read as follows: A long flash indicates the start and is not to be counted One long flash and No 1 blink long rest normal = Revolution sensor circuit fault One long flash and No 2 blink long rest normal = Speed sensor circuit fault One long flash and No 3 blink long rest normal = Throttle sensor circuit fault One long flash and No 4 blink long rest normal = Shift solenoid `A` fault One long flash and No 5 blink long rest normal = Shift Solenoid "B" fault One long flash and No 6 blink long rest normal = Overrun clutch solenoid fault One long flash and No 7 blink long rest normal = Lock up solenoid fault One long flash and No 8 blink long rest normal = Gearbox fluid temerature sensor circuit fault One long flash and No 9 blink long rest normal = Engine revolution sensor circuit fault One long flash and No10 blink long restnormal . = Line pressure solenoid circuit fault One long flash and 10 equall length blinks...... = All clear NOTE If when attempting this test no A/T check lamp operation a system check of the inhibitor switch,overdrive switch,kickdown switch or idle switch circuit will be required all info courtsy (copy & pasted) from zedworld.co.uk on this page http://www.zedworld.co.uk/wizzj.html