j1mmytt

Thats the thing with filling, it takes ages to settle and will always show up after its been painted unless the filler is left for ages. Annoying as my front bumper is now beginning to show the signs of where the number plate holder bit used to be :(

As long as they torque up yes of course, All the load rests on the hub/lip not the bolts, the bolts just hold the stuff in tight that's why its so important to have the correct size spacer hub-centric with the wheel . I bet there are loads of zeds out there with improper spacers fitted, most common symptom is wheel vibration/wobble at about 70-80 mph.

Yes but it depends on the wheels offset not that simple.

ecu controlled water injection you mean? Sounds like a good little project. There is a kit you can buy that does this which im still to fit. Slightly off topic,, how you been mate? You at any of the next meets?

Well what i would do is, Fit the 5mm and the 20mm together and go for a short drive just to see if the tyres scrub at all before you go cutting the studs, if all is good then get back home safely and get the grinder out. Bare in mind theres an extra 5mm that wont be there once the 20mm is fitted so you must be sure theres enough clearance on the inside also. If the 20mm scrub on the inside then you will just have to get the 25mm bolt ons, lifes a biatch aint it. btw whats the tyre profile your running? 40 or 35? just to add 40 would be too chunky on them 19's.

No worries, start by taking out the rad, i only removed the lower metal pipe as my top ones are new from the rebuild, just wasnt sure if the thermostat was changed so i thought i might aswell as i had the day off and the sun was out, eas job but you will need hexagonal wrenches for one of the bolts on the bottom pipe.

Got loads of little scars on my hands and even a few cuts from today.

No it will be fine. CC is just another emmisons thingy.

Today i fitted a new thermostat and while doing so i noticed this: When i bypassed the hicas and relooped the pipe i must have moved it slightly towards the PS pump whoops, ive done a quick fix and cable tied it back. Close one hey :dance: Would of made a right ol mess down there. Its only cut through the outer protecting foam and into the rubber slightly, not made it to the core thank god. So i suppose anyone who has done they same just have a little check.

http://s95014253.onlinehome.us/63104/6901.html here you go...

You can bypass the CC!! let me find the write up for you.

Sh1t idea, Two spacers is asking for trouble. The second spacer wont be resting on the hub and all the load will then be resting on the studs, BAD IDEA especially when going as big as 25mm. Whats your current wheel offset without any spacing so we can get an idea of how much width youve got to play with. Only way and safest way is to cut the studs, its real easy i was up and running same day, Your stuck without a car coz your not brave enough to cut a couple studs lol. As long as all the nuts thread is on the studs thread your safe. BTW driftworks do 25mm spacers

When you wearnt looking :D

You can buy the nismo mount on ebay also, the postage isnt cheap though as they are from the states. Another supplier would be CZP(they use ups cheaper postage and alot less chance of getting stung on duty) and Z1 (as mentioned above)

Yes but yours had no porus surfaces whatsoever. Smooth and shiney ;)

Oooo you should have bought the nismo mount, these are designed to prevent the mount from sagging over time like the oem one does. The edge of the rubber is shaped diagonally on both ends which gives it more strength, i think this was one of nissans design faults. Will be fine for ages though so not to worry.

The 300zx Manual states that the clutch should start to engage about an inch off the floor, you dont want it much higher than that. over time it will start to bite higher up as it wears. You can however have it adjusted to bite a little higher up but you must make sure there is enough play at the top or it will not fully engage and could cause premature clutch wear.

Oh bugger lol, i wondered where those long nose plyers had gone to.. Yes please if you could :D let me know how much the postage is..... What a right plonker..

Easy peasy, u cut the stock studs down then stick on the 20mm job done, btw mine are cut to overcome this prob, Dont worry about cutting them they are only 2 quid each and easy to replace. Took me a few mins to cut them down with bolt cutters then i groumd them down so they were smooth and so the nuts catch on the ends.. Just dont cut them off to much lol. You must leave ebough thread to be safe. I still have plenty of thread left to play with.

Thanks :D

Me too, its really helped me keep up to date with all my zed bits, i always refer back to this list to add and update whats done. Alot of stuff i have done is not listed, i really should put it down.

Yeah i know but this will help when peeps do a search for "missfire" and need advice. As this is prob the latest missfire thread atm....

If its missfiring after warmed up i would suggest you check the PTU, fit a known good ptu and see if it solves the problem. These usually start playing up once warm. You could also try dabbing it with a wet cold cloth to cool it down see if it stops missfiring.

Ah thats ok matey No worries. Youve just reminded me that ive got to spend more moenies now :D

Yes i think so, Why not spend a little more and get a lightened one piece prop instead, then you wont have to worry about the bearing ever again.