WillieO

maybe worth checking the tps. If it is giving the ecu the wrong throttle opening signal then this could do it. Sounds like its telling the ecu its open much more than it really is. See manual get a voltmeter and check it - also check the connectors for corrosion and bad contact. Another poss is the speed sensor saying you are going much slower than you really are but then the speedo might also read slow if this was true.

http://www.3gbrakes.co.uk/ Hope this helps

3gbrakes grooved for less than stock Nissan cost and castings by Brembo.

The handbook warns of this shunting in and out of overdrive at certain speeds on an incline etc. It recommends dropping out of overdrive if shunting in and out is uncomfortable. Its normal. It decides based on speed, engine rpm, and throttle position.

I know its a bodge but Ive done it on another car and it worked long term - glass fibre and resin. Course you have to clean it up first and get all the petrol out and of course you cant simply run a grinder over it to clean up the rust or it goes bang. The radiator repair people can also often put it in a caustic bath and when clean solder a patch on it. If you have a lot of rust then forget it though.

Very informative - stopped me working for ages. Still cant spring for the extra insurance though or the thought of the engine spraying its inards all over the road when I did something daft!

With overdrive on (light off) the auto box gives no engine breaking - at least on mine anyway - UK. So stays in highest gear. Ive even seen mine appear to freewheel with about 30mph and the revs dropping to idle. With OD off (light on) you do get engine braking but it still doesnt change down until you stop or kick down a bit to pick up again but much more fun on the twisties. Switching OD on while accelerating hard wont make it select 4th. It will stay in 3rd as long as the box ecu decides it needs to and depending on speed and throttle it will eventually change up and later then also lock up the torque converter to make revs drop again almost like selecting a 5th. If you change out of locked up OD at speed then the revs pick up a lot. Made me think you had OD on and off round the wrong way in 2/ You have to look at the speed / gear / throttle position curves in the manual to see if your change positions are out of spec. Slipping and juddering or sticking in wrong gears are the bad signs - smelly dirty cloudy transmission fluid with bits of burned clutches in it also! Check your dipstick and smear it on white paper.

Try asking about a chip - mine wanted £250 extra for that!

Or you might have rot in the fuel tank. Is it worse when full?

The small hose TonyC refers to above was leaking fuel on mine when cold and when you eventually find it you think that the fpr has gone when its only a hard shrunk hose pipe. You need to take the plastic cover off over the throttle cables to see it. Also you will find tea cupfuls of petrol being dumped out this and it all runs under the plenum down the back of the engine and down the bell housing onto the floor right under the car. Thats also why its so strong in the car. Once warmed right up the hose starts to seal again and heat vapouries any fuel. This is classic zed and loads of posts on this. This is where the smell most likely comes from. A slight trace doesnt smell that bad and if it was rich running enough to smell it from the exhaust you would also get flames and popping out the exhaust when hot on overrun. Maybe also black smoke. My bets on a leak. Exhausts always get sooty even running right Buy a length of new 8mm high pressure fuel hose and spend an hour or so changing everyone on the engine. You will be amazed at how hardened some of these are.

was going to say check the Vatican website then saw all the techy answers! Anyway a techy thought on mine is lots of short journeys in cold weather fills the back boxes with water condensation. If you dont give it a good run sometimes this can do it. When you brake for a junction when its still cold the water runs up the exhaust and goes to steam on the hotter pipes up front. Hence big steamy cloud.

I concur with Stuart except I never reached 28. Best ever was 26 on long motorway trips. Worst 15 icy weather and stop start short journeys. Mostly around 19!

Chris I dont believe these underdrive pulleys are worth anything like 18bhp. And if you were to run a tuned / hot engine at full output and max rpm where you might just find a few bhp savings then one place it comes from is the water pump. This is now running slower than it should and therefore not shifting as much coolant as it should around an even hotter pair of cylinder heads and very expensive turbos. imho more to loose than win. Last thing you need is a costly rebuild again. Protect your investment not put it at risk. Willie

firm hoses when good and hot is just right! If they had too much pressure then the rad cap should vent it.

sihibbs You have to be really specific about the symptoms. Vibrations are one thing but serious juddering is another. An out of balance prop shaft put back on 180 deg out wont judder but might cause some vibrations. A sh*gged universal joint on the prop might give bad vibrations (judders!) but your garage would / should have seen that when they removed the propshaft. It would have to be really bad to judder. You should have asked for the old bearing mount back to see its conditon anyway. If it was good then you know right away you wasted your money. Your judder could be from a gearbox problem as you mention slipping - didnt you ask an opinion from the garage before you got them to just change the centre mount? Is your transmission fluid nice and clean? Judder might also come from a bad misfire from several coil packs although I've no experience there. As others have said you might also need to check the rear box mount but to give what I understand as judder I think the box and mount would need to have parted company to actually give judder. Other thing to look at is rear drive shafts for play. Hope you find it soon

Sounds about right if it includes the part. £135+ ish and up to 3 hours labour to change it. Mine needed the aftermarket exhaust dropping too. Willie

If you dropped one and want to savour the aroma a little longer then rec will recycle it for you. At the same time it will restart your compressor to chill and dehumidify it as well if the AC was set at Econ beforehand! Hence the change in revs.

you're dead right TT Tim. It was Laycock. Now where's my anorak! Borg Warner was the maker of the autobox in my old Scimitar. Get confused these days - it was the fumes off me zed before I fixed all those petrol hoses on the engine. And not using it in 2nd was because the huge torque of those days could rip up the overdrive in 2nd gear! Willie

I had a Sunbeam Alpine series V with a whopping 85bhp and overdrive 3rd and 4th! the TR6s were too expensive for me at the time and I didnt have a beard either! Got to know its workings in great detail tho.

Would have thought low speed towing with the box in neutral also OK, i.e. less than 35mph for short distances. Must read the handbook.

I'm with Hairsy on this too. I had an old 60's sportscar with an overdrive and in those days it was actually an additional Borg Warner gearbox strapped on the back of the manual gearbox that stepped up the input shaft speed by about 25%. It was selected electrically with its own clutch and could on TR6's be switched in on 2nd, 3rd and 4th. The zed overdrive is nothing like this. It is a discrete gear and only called an overdrive because like in the old overdrives the input shaft speed is geared up on the output shaft when in 4th or overdrive. The output shaft is therefore overdriven. 3rd on an auto is exactly the same as 4th on a manual. i.e. the engine speed in is the gearbox output speed out 1:1. By this definition you can call the 5th gear in a manual an overdrive too because it gears up the output. Minimum transmission loss on a dyno is always in 4th in a manuals and 3rd (overdrive off) in an auto. The lock up clutch on the torque converter then makes it feel like yet another gear can be selected because the slip is suddenly cancelled when the clutch locks up the converter and the revs fall again. Made me think the auto had five gears when I first got it as you feel 5 distinct changes in engine rpm. Although I never yet felt the 3rd gear lock up when I switched the overdrive off which locks off 4th. I knew wot I meant when I wrote this but am not sure it reads right!

I found that I needed to grab the strut part with both hands while standing on one leg, knee bent, with the other one stood on the lower suspension arm to push it down. It worked for me! You're right about all the trim you need to remove tho

Mine has been slightly past the high level mark for 2 years. I thought it would go down eventually but it doesnt seem to. I think the leakage you have is probably all the problem you get but dont know for sure. You probably get the leakage because the fluid is actually part way up the dipstick tube and leaking from the joint of tube and box. You might be able to syphon off the excess by passing a polythene tube, like windscreen washer tubing, down the dipstick tube and sucking up the excess to put your mine at rest. Oh and dont use upper case cos the language police will say you're shouting!

and the insurers count your points for 5 years not the 3, that stays on the license so 3 points in a zed can mean £60 + 5 X £100 depending on your premiums - painfull! Take care out there! If you forget to tell the insurers then dont bother paying the premium either!

bbs RSII's 18 X 10.5 and 8.5 X 18. Split rim looks a bit like a wire wheel with a centre nut and polished stainless steel rim edge. With red it gives the zed an Italian look.