WillieO

A German firm has a chopped roof one with lowered suspension and 23" wheels, oh and a power upgrade to around 600bhp. Just needs a big gun on the top.

A turbo does kind of pre compress in that sense so as to get more O2 and fuel into the given cylinder space. But there is an upper point to the maximum pressure you can have hence the low ratio on turbos as the mix is liable to ignite itself well before the piston is all the way to the top. Detonation pinking etc. The explosion then tries to send it back the way it came with huge force shock and heat that can quickly melt pistons. So while you want as much air and fuel in the right ratio at the highest pressure short of self igniting you want it to ignite only at the right time to give an exploding mix that puts max push on the piston just as its on its way back down the cylinder. Think of it as on yer bike when you push the pedal as it goes over the top. High octane fuel makes this early igniting less likely. Timing is everything thats also why the ignition timing advance changes with engine rpm and piston speed. The exploding flame takes a certain time to reach maximum push so you have to ignite it earlier and earlier at higher rpms to be ready to catch the piston on the way back down again.

waggle the connector under the tps, the one thats cabled to it not the connector direct on it, when its ticking over too fast. Mine always settles down to an even 700 when I do this. Typical zed iffyconnectoritis.

overfilled autobox fluid might be ejected out of the ickey little breather pipe on top of the box near the rear of it when being booted. This then gets onto hot exhaust and instant aroma ensues.

I once popped one in an old Sunbeam sports car - at the back of the engine inside the bell housing area. 20p parts and engine out to fit. All because of not enough antifreeze in winter. Obviously you cant have popped one in summer maybe corroded thru tho but that would be highly unlikely. Still more likely its running down the back of the engine from a hose leak somewhere and dripping off the bottom of the bell housing

I'm still not over Tooley's thread about why autos are better and what you can do with your spare hand that isnt changing gears:) That was in the days before pc filters stopped you mentioning the name of the inventor of the engine used in the Mazda RX7 and 8 Herr ****el.

Easy UK series 2 ident is no ambient temp on the aircon display and suedy stuff trim.

There's loads here on this. No back pressure means more oomph for the turbos but also more rapid rogering of the seals. So if its done a fair mileage you need to budget for new turbos much sooner. The bloke who had mine before me had 3.5" diameter straight thrus made up decat with Apexi cans on the end. Apparently it amplified the turbine sound and sounded like a 747 whine and was so loud inside as to be undriveable. The cats went back on and the exhaust was cut and modified to cat back. Now its still louder than I'd like but sounds great in tunnels.

to fill the box from empty - it needs less than 5 litres (maybe only 3.5) if only the sump was drained as a load stays in the torque converter and cant be drained unless its off the car. The total is a lot more. If you put in the amount as in the book you have overfilled it. Nice new oil is very clear and hard to see the level with. Mind it has to be running to check it and had been in D and r a few times while running to be sure the fluid is all around the box otherwise it looks too high on the dipstick. Sounds like it might be squirting out the breather. The pipe faces backwards on the top of the box. Suggest a bit of the narrow plastic pipe for windscreen washers from Halfords and syphon the excess out through the dipdtick tube

....the filter was cleaned - as in auto transmission problems - bits of dying box clogging the filter? you mean the sump was dropped and the box re filled with new transmission oil too? It might have been seriously over filled - take it you checked properly, but to get on the exhaust it would need to leak out of the tail shaft seal and be spun onto the exhausts and all over the underside. But that would only be from the tailshaft seal backwards. If its further forwards it might also be thrown out of the filler / dipstick tube or seal or even the icky little breather pipe on the top side of the gearbox body. The days before my transmission died I had oil smoke smells and smoke rising from the back of the engine when the bonnet was up. I thought it was an engine oil leak but after the box died I realised the smoke was from overheating auto transmission fluid and the smoke comes out of this little breather on top and up the back of the engine. Eventually no drive and nasty noises after only a few minutes running. Oil under pressure squirting out there could fall on the zorsts. Also check out that the oil cooler banjo pipe connections are on right and its not leaking from them. Hope its just overfilled in which case correct it quickly a box change is pricey

Its not the gearbox there its the cats! They are right under there.

Start at the middle panel at the rear hatch latch and work your way round. Lots of screws and small bolts. The trim panels overlap so you have to start there. Not a hard job. Need a spring compressor. To get the bottom of the shocker onto the bottom wishbone on your own needs you to be able to crouch down, balance on one foot with the other forcing down the wishbone and your two hands manipulating the shocker and spring assy into position!

I tried the thick stonechip white paint but could not get the original effect back. It doesnt spray with that original texture.

Mind and check the connectors for the O2 sensors - my lazy one was and oxided up connector - sorted that and its fine. Better than £100 plus a pop for new ones.

If you search you'll see that the 4th gear synchro can be weak and there was a mod for early zeds with sets of replacement gear parts. Fast changes defeat the synchromesh and crunch. Otherwise its a grin and bear it issue or use I think Redline transmission oil which apparently helps a lot. Do some searching on Redline for more info. The A to Z book on zeds lists the part numbers of the gears etc if you fancy rebuilding your gearbox.

mine eats rears as well. Any big torque car does especially without TC

or if you drop one you can ensure your mates savour it for longer

A hot radiator is usually needed to make the viscous fan hot enough to lock up whereas a blocked up radiator would actually be cold when the engine is hot. Maybe your rad cap isnt holding pressure or you have a coolant leak. Is the top hose getting hard when hot to indicate proper pressurising? If not the water boils off easier and once you loose a little water it will overheat. If the aux fan is on then the engine is really hot for sure. Are you aircon on or off / econ? Aircon on will add even more heat to the front of the radiator via the condenser. So with the heat from the engine the rad could still be suspect. Hope the brown sludge wasnt a radweld overdose as that stuff is excellent for closing up fine matrix alloy radiators.

Sounds like your shocker is well rogered. The piston rod seal is gone and prolly most of the oil. Hence the lack of damping and prolly sticking thumping. You need to change the pair. The goo on the tension rod bushes means the rubber has persihed enough to start the silicone leaking. This makes the front start to feel soggy and any disc warp shudder gets much worse than would otherwise be the case. A change to poly bushes (£50 plus an hour or two) or new v exp Nissan tension rods is warranted. There's debate about the risks of poly bushes -some cracked track arms have been caused by a too stiff bush causing the track arm to flex instead. I used Superflex (search on "witor") ones 3 years ago and checked that they flex OK plus I look for cracks and so far so good. Some use solid rose joint / pillow ball type.

You have it - 60 70 or 80. You wont be able to stay at 60 once the kids start the !are we there yet routine!!" but 80 should still make 26mpg

Doesnt this make your ears bleed?

Spot of vaseline or grease on the lock clasp helps too. But like the man says adjust the part on the body - you have to take off the trim panel to get at the bolts

If you have an intake kit you might find its sodden and also soaked the AFM. Suggest you take off the panel between the lights and take a looksee - Maybe the filter will need a short spell in the warm or a go with a hair dryer!

When the centre bearing support bellows rubber cracks up it doesnt locate the shaft properly and when torque is applied it goes out of shape and can even knock the sides of the bearing housing. So it can vary with torque.

Should give the filter strainer a clean while the sump is off - they often choke with debris