kierash

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pete21st....if you want to drive over to winsford, I'll gladly take a look and tell you what is wrong. regards Pete

RS do 2 versions...wattage's ...go for the higher wattage/power, they are about £25.00 plus vat and delivery. Have you tested the output voltage from the inverter, it could be the E/L strip that is faulty.Oh if you remove the panel connector and apply 230v ( domestic) carefully if all is ok the panel will light up ( the panel can withstand 230v no problem for short period).DO NOT pull on the wires that go to the panel as they are soldered to very flimsy tags on the E/L strip and will come off. hope this helps Pete

It's about £40 to £50 quid for the parts(E/L strip and inverter) in the UK and about 2hrs work to repair an original panel or 5/6 hrs works to convert a non-illuminated.....been there, done that etc. So the states is a good price. however the parts costs drop quite alot with the more you buy....obviously. Pete

the AFM was replaced about 2 months ago, never thought about the TPS. cheers guys will try tomorrow and see what happens,however conzult reports all ok Thanks

C'mon guys.................any ideas

Need some pointers here guys.......I was reversing my N/A back up my drive, just dipped the clutch a little and the engine cut out, started back up first tun of the key and continued to reverse up the drive, stopped and put hand brake on and let the car idle......the revs began rising and falling 1500 down to 500 for about 30 seconds then settled back to normal (850ish), the engines done many things, which I've sorted with little problem, in the past but never this........... any ideas Pete

feel for you matey, happened to me 3 months ago, in the process of going self employed.....................

IIRC, it's behind the door card near the bottom of the door, its a small black box with a connector to it ( does both windows I think) when mine went T*ts up last year it had a burn't out track on the pcb, bridged it out and been fine ever since......................never did find out what caused it tho. Pete

nope, they're the same. short post but to the point LOL Pete

Regrettably I Never did take any photos.......Just wanted my car back on the road and my mates I did on the front of his house on the road, so wanted to get it sorted before the sunshine turned liquid. Anyway IIRC the air con stuff is on the passenger side and you need to gently lever the heater box to remove it, once out of the car it comes to bits very easily.....held together with a few clips and screws. you will end up with a top half and a bottom half. Pete

you'll also need to open the blower chamber( the bit the matrix slides into) because there are center pieces in the middle...........I know cause I did 2 last year.you need to take it out of the car to open it and it's a bitch to get out without damaging the air con equipment.....but it's possible pete

try the breakers in the traders section or look up zedworld on the web and give jeff a call.......I believe he has them. Pete

yep, quite right Pete, even the stillens needed modding, although I didn't need to flatten them,only grind part of a weld and fit both o2 sensor bosses, only had to do 2 trial fits to the drivers side and once to the passenger side. some of the original manifold bolts are a bitch to get at, I think I was lucky because all the nuts came off with no problem.I also found that the passenger manilfolds go in/out no problem without having to remove anything, but the driverside is easier with the starter motor off and out of the way and be very careful not to break the o2 sensors. Still if you know what your doing and have the tools to do it, then it isn't a hard job. Pete

took me 6hrs including any mods (o2 sensor bushes etc) to fit the stillens I got off you, so I would agree with your price...... Pete

oooooooooh, another "z" not far from me, welcome bud and as he said above :hyper: Pete

TBH, I've not thought about doing it for other members., but its very easy to do, I did mine in about 3hrs start to finish. Pete

http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnettech/illrp/illrp.html...........follow the instructions in the link, but the only part you would need to do is openning the rear panel and sealing back up.

Mines an import aswell so yes the EL's I can get will work, the inverter is behind the internal centre panel. small unit about the size of a match box wrapped in foam.there should be 2 wires running from this box to the side of the L/H (looking in car)reversing light, should be a green with thin red stripe and a green wire and plugs into the inverter loom. Pete

the inverters aren't genuine nissan, I get them from the company that does the EL panels, if you want I'll get a proper price incl del and post it on here, It would probably take me a few days to sort it out though. TBH the original post was only to see if there was any interest.....as I said it's all at cost. Pete

cheers Steve, thought someone would ask.........couldn't for the life of me remember or find the link. Pete

seeing edk83's for sale notice, reminded me.....here goes. The rear illuminated panel on my z packed in working, wasn't the inverter so naturally assumed it was the EL panel. Having shopped around etc found it impossible to source from Nissan and manufacturers inform me I need to buy large sheets in large quantities so was about to give up, but I've now found a UK supplier who will supply me what I wanted, ordered it and today I fitted it and it looks brilliant all working again. :dance: I got 2 pieces 1 blue/green......is green though 1 red.......slightly pink when illuminated......but still looks good in the panel, I tried both pieces to see what I prefered (green). Anyway I have a red piece left and can access more ( various colours ) and inverters. Is there anyone with a u/s panel that want to repair it or wants to convert their none illuminated panel that may be interested.......not looking to turn any profit just costs, each EL stripe works out at £16 each and inverters about £40. Oh I can get them upto A4 size by the way at about £48 Pete :)

it controls the live to each coil pack, in effect switchs the coil pack on and off.

I never said use a skyline unit, pulsar unit or 200 sx unit ........they use our afm's for tuning. Just for the record when mine packed up and I spoke to Ryan, he said the car would drive without damaging the engine as it's a sort of emergency limp mode. Pete :headvswal

Really feel for you mate, anyway if the AFM fails(just had this on mine) the car won't rev smoothly past 2600rpm (it's like hitting the limiter).......car is perfect up to this and is driveable with no adverse effects to the engine. when I ran a conzult check it reported 0.08v most of the time and 5.87v some of the time. check the plug and pins for corrosion......give them a clean and try again, if no good then I'm afraid it's more than likely gone chips. I got mine of ebay for £64 all in (second hand) at the time(2 weeks ago) none of the traders on here had any but price was higher than I paid( I was lucky) have a look at other nissan sites, eg skyline, pulsar and 200sx costhey use them ......you may get lucky. pete