phill82

I'm hoping it won't be too long now till I'm able to buy my first Zed. I've been looking around at ones forsale on the net and was wondering about the whole issue of rust. Is rust generally repairable (I mean properly, so it's as good as new, won't come back in 6 months)? If so what sort of cost is normally involved? Is it feasible to buy a car with some rust and factor in the cost of getting it sorted, or are they generally doomed once it starts to appear? Any advice would be greatfully appreciated Phill

I usually find staying with the same company does the opposite of help! Normally I get the renewal letter through with a quote that is noticably more than what I can get from the same company through their website. They seem to penalise you (or at least me) for being loyal. Anyway, I'll be having a look at Admiral!

who's that with? I had a quick look for quotes and I was getting about that figure and I'm 26 with 5 years no claims!

sorry rather off the topic, but Joely P, your Zed is mint, got to be one of my favourites on the forum at the mo, if not the favourite.

that'd be the governments best outcome - they look like they're doing good, and they're getting heaps of money for it!

Saw another Zed in Shrewsbury driving up Wyle Cop at about 5:45 today. Was grey and looked like it was a fairly stock UK model, apart from the exhausts. You may have seen me (dressed in black) stop and stare as you drove up the hill.

you have water temperature measured in bars?

just realised - it's needed to work out the side wall height!

why does it need to know tyre width? whats that got to do with top speed other than adding resistance, which is not taken into account by this calculator?

I may know which one you mean, did it have a 94-98 spec spoiler?

Ah ha, another Shrewbury Zed! Am I likely to ever see your driving around town Sean (I'm guessing the name's Sean!)? Phill

Saw a Red Zed in Shrewsbury going up Wyle Cop. Had a dump valve, slightly squared quad exhausts and the number plate had the number 300 in it, but other than that looked fairly stock. You probably saw two chaps stop in their steps and gorp as you went up the hill, don't often see Zeds round here!

what happens to your no claims though if you have to use your insurance's breakdown cover? it's no good if you lose your no claims just for a break down.

Some nice pictures there Murt. What happened with the smashed windows/lights?

32mins and a few seconds in, it must be on for all of 1.5 seconds!

No! Not until I've bought mine!

Yeah, what model was it based on? It looks better than most 300zx models you see, no silly body kit or stupidly big wheels, and actually looks like a Z32.

As Far As I Cnow?

I like your new sig pic Si. You don't like taking pictures of the front of your car do you!

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1992-NISSAN-300-ZX-TURBO-BLACK_W0QQitemZ320256639536QQihZ011QQcategoryZ18238QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem From what I know the rear bumper is UK, but the front doesn't look like it is, and the interia looks like tweed - I thought all UK cars were leather?

Just sent you money and an email to your paypal email address, tell me if that's the wrong address (I can't reply to your 'For Sale' thread as I'm not subscribed) Thanks, Phill

does look better, but if I was going to buy one I'd rather the headlamps were the same both sides ;)

This isn't that important for a sub as the frequencies it is handling are way below those of any standing waves that could exist within the dimensions of the enclosure. Definitly drive your mid/tweeters from a separate power amp if you can. Head units usually claim a silly power output, which when you read the small print is no where near its actual RMS output. You'll get a better sound all round (treble, mid and bass) if you drive them from a decent power amp. Although I'd probably leave the rear speakers driven from the head unit as the front speakers are the important ones, and it'd save space and money in terms of amplifiers.

what's the purpose of the different buckets?

Can you polish any alloy? Could you polish oem ones? Would it be a cheaper alternative to getting chromed ones?