JeffTT

Horn issue`s like this are usually a cable fault, the cable from the horn push button is a switched earth to the horn relay, if this cable becomes earthed somewhere the horn relay will sound even with the ignition off. Most times it is easier to replace the offending cable rather than spend hours looking for the fault. In the meantime just remove the horn fuse located in the relay box under the bonnet on the passenger side inner wing, it is marked on the lid which one it is and should be a red 10amp one. Jeff TT

Yes it was quite a day, ice everywhere but the 300zx club members shone through!! A quick look back. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=134120&highlight=zedworld+bash Jeff

Thats Cool :thumbup: Jeff

No problemo :thumbup1: Jeff

Yes agree with you, from your explaination that with raised full level it smells/ leaks worse. Get the near side rear wheel off and have a look at teh filler tube and where it enters the tank. Jeff TT

Hi Sky, Most common cause of fuel leaks towards the rear of the car is the fuel tank itself, the two straps that hold it up trap small bits of grit and over the years slowly errode it to a point that is leaks, if this is the case its fairly obvious if you know where to look, and will need a replecement tank. So the two straps have a black rubber cover on them and they run down from behind the bumper then under the tank and finally return back up above the diff, if you check out the area`s the straps touch the tank and see if you can feel any wet or damp areas close by. There is one other place and that`s the fuel tank filler pipe, this is viewable at the rear wheel arch on the passenger side, this pipe can corrode quite alarmingly and become porous as a result, and where this pipe is fixed into the side of the tank there is a rubber seal, so worth a check of that too. Jeff TT

Now what you dont want is one of these! Jeff TT

Nothing too complicated, what you need is pictured below, aim the chisel away from the engine, sometimes a few hits will do it sometimes it needs several, if you can rotate the engine all the better as a few hits normal start to tip it out at an angle so hitting it at opposite points allow it to come out staight. Jeff TT One of these to is handy

As a trader and enthusiast every time I hear this kind if thing I see red, nothing worse than getting let down whatever the reason, but when potentially it looks intentional ( might not be ) the disapointment turns to anger.....but dont let it spoil your zed / forum experience. So in line with previous occasions if you get no joy in a week or so pm me your shipping addy with details of which intercooler you need and will send you one FOC. Regards Jeff TT

Sounds like you might have some electronic tune issues such as a faulty det sensor circuit, temp sensor connection or even O2 sensors giving corrupted signals, there are other mechanical settings like throttle balance and timing that can cause lowered performance and hence higher fuel consumption. You would do well to get a diagnostic check and adjustments done, any cost involved wil soon be recouped in fuel saving and increased performance. Jeff TT

Its a royal pain when this happens, but as you said by making a small cut out to accomodate the cables you will be fine. But be aware how large the clutch booster is and the cables cannot foul this or the assembly will not fit flush. I find it best to cut a small rectange strip out at the top rather than the bottom on the side closest to the wing, goes without saying be careful the cables will not shafe on any sharpe edges. Good luck Jeff TT

Oh yes!! all great fun though. Jeff TT

Just a few pics from yesterday ( Sat) given the uncertain weather it all turned out to be a top day, well done to ALL of the guys involved in running the 300zx stand, the atmosphere was great, relaxed and friendly. Jeff TT

No worries, can see it now, miday tomorrow burger in one hand spanners in the other.....:biggrin: Jeff

Yes no worries. Jeff

Will be loading up for JAE first thing in the morning, have got several parts for members anyhow so is there anyone else need any parts, batteries , spark plugs, etc. will save on the postage for you. Cheers, here`s to a good weekend!!:dance: Jeff

Good point, any contamination will defeat the draining and refilling. Jeff TT

Shhhussh dont tell everyone how good they are its our secret eh! Owned it 6 year 175k miles and still going strong,just love the sound of the V6 induction and with the best end of 200bhp keeps me grining especially when a rep in his new motor overlooks it as just an old Vectra estate....then wonders why he is looking at the tailgate pulling away from him! Jeff TT

Ok here is an update for those who asked for weight spec of our one piece propshafts Swb tt manual standard weight = 15.88 Kilo Swb one piece weight = 9.52 Kilo Weight save = 6.36 kilo Lwb original units are around 12% heavier so the weight saving is around 7.1 kilo`s Here is a swb shown in pic 1, pic 2 shows a new unit along side an original two piece unit, pics 3 and 4 shows the quality of the tube weld onto original spec flanges. So as a reminder again they are £225 + vat which works out less than fitting a Genuine Nissan centre support bearing and are lighter too. Jeff TT

Classic fluid pressure drop and hence loss of drive, the fact drive returns after a short break points to the strainer been blocked, when the engine is switched off the fluid returns to the sump and rinses the strainer out and hence drive returns albeit till it blocks up again. So the next move is to drain the fluid, remove the sump pan, remove the strainer and flush it out. Try and keep some of the material that has blocked the strainer so it can be inspected to see if it metal fragment which is bad and means defo new gearbox. If however it is fiberous strands then it is either clutch or brake band material, this could be just build up that has never been flushed out or it could be the sign of problems.With nothing to loose, when all cleaned out and back together fill back up with fresh fluid. Chances are drive will be back, how long this will last is less certain, two weeks two months 2 years?? its a good idea to run the car a week or so and drain the fluid and replace again in order to give yourself a fighting change. However unless your a quick worker I guess taking the Zed to JAE is uncertain. Jeff TT

Have you done any work in the brake pedal area inside of the car? assuming all of the calipers are free as you say then its possible the brake pedal has no free play and so is keeping the pedal slightly depressed even when you do not have your foot on, hence the master cylinder is not returning completely this will also hamper the bleeding process. What you could try is releasing any of the bleed nipples and see if that releases the binding calipers, if it does then that`s the problem and the adjusting rod on the pedal needs adjusting, it is still possible the master cyliner is acting up, and the fluid pressure is just not returning back to the resevoir when the pedal is released. Let us know how you get on Jeff

Looks all set to be a great weekend see you all there. Jeff

Thought I best get cleaning. Loads of soap Sponge down and rinse So stage one done, now into the garage for drying, claying, polish and waxing, HAPPY DAYS!! Jeff TT

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Yes well noticed, given the o/s turbo actuator pipe was wrongly installed the turbo was unrestricted.... a recipe for disaster, lucky the massive boost leaks prevented that happening. Jeff TT