Smithy

that is possible, especially if your a jap spec which has a slightly smaller water pump wheel than a UK spec anyways. Danny and other companies now do an overdrive wheel for the water pump to bring things back into corect sync, however am thinking thermostat or summitt, new or not the odd rare occassion has seen a faulty one from new. good luck smithy

Phew someone does, lol What i meant though in comparing the 2 fans, if you consider a viscous is on all the time but cannot stop an engine from overheating if theres a problem, whereas the AUX electric fan can cool it down in 5 mins once switched on, because mainly it's at full chat and strapped to the rad. Just like Stu's aftermarket rad is, strapped to the rad and not sitting a foot away like a viscous, therefore he should have a cold water dispenser on his car :p smithy

Sorry Stu, Jaffa's way of thinking ain't quite convincing me, lol Lets look at this way, you got strapped your rad a fan that is 4 times more efficient than a viscous one, unlike the viscous it's not changing speeds, it's on full chat all the time. Your temps on a good day are 79 degrees, which as it should be with a viscous on, your bad day temps are 94 degrees, this is just 1 degrees away from the AUX fan kicking in after sensing serious overheating of the engine and all this time the elctric fan is on. You should never ever get this high, sorry. It's constantly drawing power whilst on, so you may as well go back to the viscous, however i fear if you do, your gonna have higher temps. Please just have it conzulted for temps whilst very warm to hot, test with the fan on and then the fan off. I've never heard of anyone having it on at all times as it totally 110% defeats the object it was meant for in the first place. Do you know ANY modern day car that has a fan on all times ? it;s either viscous at all times or electric when required, end off! smithy

I think now that you have to wait until the 27th, you've time to isolate the most common checks and problems mate, so you've a clearer idea when it goes back to scott. Am sure he's more than capable of opening up and engine, swapping a few parts and putting it back together, putting it back in the car though, can be a different story. I've seen so called specialist's get this important part wrong. Theres a fair bit of plumbing and wiring to be done, right! Your problems of erratic idle, lumpiness and stalling are classic for air leaks or incorrect fitted pipework. Am sure at the start of this you done the odd bypass or deleating of pipework hosing ???? if so this must be done correctly. So back to the beginning, is Vijay still coming around to see you ? he's capable of doing a conzult check for errors and correctly doing a boost leak, get those areas cleared first, if vijay ain't coming round, do an ECU dignostics yourself. Once the those 2 jobs are done, and Vijay is there, are there any hoses that appear to be incorrectly fitted, in their wrong place ( i've seen it happen a few times). Now move on to the next one, timing, check what it is. Finally, i would take it to any local garage and ask them to do a compression check, yes it's gonna cost about 30-40 quid, but A) You'll have an expert do the job so you know it's right and B) You'll be armed with this info when you see Scott who would question your tests over that of another garage, this wil also tell if the garage are getting near zero on No.6, and that you ain't gonnna end up with egg on your face. smithy

From raeding your post in the other section, you have only done this No.6 and not tested the others, you MUST test the others as it also confirms what your doing is correct and equipment working as it should. If i was Scott and you rang up saying the first cylinder you checked and got zero comression in No.6 and didn't test any of the others, to be blunt, i'd hang the phone up on you and walk saying something you wouldn't wanna hear. So you need to spend/waste the time checking ALL 6 before you lose yer rag. smithy

:headvswal cor blimey.. If andy just sends in the post today to Phils place the lines as thats the quickest and easiest thing to do, oh and the cheapest Phil wil have them by 9am tomorow morning, he works out ( which he's done before) what's what and sends them to BSR who make such things and hey presto around Tuesday-ish some new oil feeds :bow: smithy

Yes but you ONLY need the lines and not the turbo's. Lines oon next day service would be what 6 quid, with turbos and packaging, small fortune lol You only need the lines to help with length and thread fitting for the back of the block. If your tubs are rollerbearing though, a restrictor needs to be fitted in the line. smithy

You don't need the old turbos mate, just the old lines from your zed or anyone elses will do. They can be posted to you and with you in 36 hours! Or because the US are 8 hrs ish behind us, you can order from there now and they should be here Friday PM or Saturday morning, monday at the latest. smithy

Deffo hook the conzult up mate and hopefully the gauge is giving a higher reading than the conzult and that would mean the gauge needs sorting. If the gauge matches within 1 or 2 degrees of the conzult, that would tell me you've got an overheating problem, thermostat or pump perhaps. An electric fan is designed to cool down and over hot rad NOT keep a rad cool. It can bring a zeds engine down from over 100 degrees to a steady 80 degrees in about 5 mins, so see what am saying.. Alls you need is once things are sorted is a 85 degree cut in switch and an overide switch in the cockpit just in case. All of SE Nissan's kits for years were like this and worked very well too :cool: smithy

Yikes 94 summitt deffo ain't right mate. pretty sure 95 is the Aux fan opertion temps, which is overheat mode! If your constamtly running the fan whilst your driving, again theres something wrong, cos while the temp at 79 is correct, with the fan on which 4 times more efficient than the viscous one, it should be in the 60's which would be too low. You either have the wrong type fan perhaps ? or your engine is constantly running hot and the fan is working to keep it at normal temps, most of the time. smithy

If you have an aftermarket temp gauge or a conzult, you'll be able to work towards getting the fan at the correct temps. Ideally IMO is 85 degrees, think nissan suggest 77-82degrees as normal/ideal temps. So 85 is just that wee bit beyond. Electric fans aftermarket of stock as fitted to modern cars are designed for a stop-start operation not to be running for long periods and certainly not all the time. SMW1 if yours is on all the time, have to looked to see what temp your running at ? too cold and the engine is not performing correctly as it should and obviously too hot is not good either, plus i would suspect that the electric motor would fail sooner than one that operates as it should. smithy

Well done mate, you were a good student :D However it ain't over yet cos the fat lady ain't singing, lol Remember at the start you said the AUX fan wasn't working, well it's one of the least used parts in the engine, but is one of the most important. Should that sensor be cruded up, broken or you remove the connector, the ECU has no correct reading for the temps, it will always assume the car is overheating even if it isn't. The engine then dumps excessive amounts of fuel in to help cool things down ( this is why zeds can flood easily) and then turns on the AUX fan. So soon spend some time figuring out why it's not working, this link should help http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/tech/auxfan/auxfan.html The other good thing about this fan working correctly, cos it can noisey, you only have to switch the ignition on and if you hear the fan, then oopps, you a problem and if you've even had to start the car :cool: Again though, well done you stuck with it and she's making you happy again..... smithy

Show us a picture of what the kit uses to determine the temp ? is it a sender unit or a small box with a dial on perhaps ? smithy

Worth trying, you never know! http://www.specialtyz.com/clutchadj.htm smithy

Only company i've ever heard off to offer a lifetime warranty on their carbon clutch is RPS. http://www.exedy.co.uk/index.php?main_page=hyperseries&my_page=sports Best you can do is whip it out and see what's fooked and take it from there. Possible other options first though like adjustment and any oil under teh gearbox to show that the rear seal may have gone ? smithy

One of the buttons on the front ( left i think) you press changes the reading configuration, i think the 2nd push puts it in PSI, much easier :D smithy

Okay well hopefully when Vijay turns up he'll bring up any problems. Ask him to bring his leak tester anyways, won't do no harm to try from another perspective. smithy

The whole point of the electric fan is help gain that wee bit more of what was previously sapping power. It should only ever be on at a certain temp, say for example 85 degrees, that way theres no constant running or overrunning when the engine has been switched off unless temps are megga high. smithy

Now are you a 100% there are no more air leaks ? the biggest cause of running rich on a fairly stock set up like yours AND after an engine refit, is an air leak OR an incorrectly fitted hose somewhere. Is there another local Zed that can park alongside yours to compare the various hoses ? Have you done an ECU check for error codes ? When the engine has been running, put your hands ontop of the plenum and see if one side is cooler than the other, they should be pretty much the same, if they feel different then the throttle bodies are outta balance. Think from a previous post of yours that you polished the CAS ?? if so are you sure Scott has set it back to 15 degrees ? smithy P.S Yep plugs are fine

Cheeky git, it's just that no one really steals cars over here, when they do it's usually to get home after a night out and the cops generally arrest the person inside the house that the car has been left outside after being nicked :rofl: Seroiusly though 4 cars nicked last year and 3 were by the same bloke (Polish) smithy

£178 fully comp for the Zed but with limited mileage to 4K. £!00 for me Renault megane fully comp smithy

If you want the GT525 Turbo's, just ask danny at DTA Motorsport, he'll happily supply them. smithy

CAS is held in place by 3 10mm bolts, 1 either side and 1 underneath. The CAS once removed or replaced needs to go back in the same position, so using a pencil draw a circle tight around the 2 side bolt heads which sit on a slotted flange, that way you just re fit ensuring your bolts go in the same place. So once removed ( maybe a bit tight to pull off for the 1st time), with the black connector still attached, turn the ignition on and at the back of the CAS is a spindle, simply turn the spindle slowly and you should hear the injectors clicking under the plenum, if not then you know it's kaput. When re fitting a replacement, do the same test again before fitting, clicks are heard, all is okay, no clicks and assuming the replacement is good, tends to suggest a fault in the connector or wiring. The ECU will throw up it's latest error codes, even though one maybe not be a problem now, so i would expect one of the codes you just got to be from the last time she was a non starter. So first off, i would re set the ECU and then check again for what error codes you get, just in case. smithy

Nope that was rear wheel horse power and assuming a good chip is being used for the 740cc injectors, I only know of DTA who do them for that spec. Me and Jaffa have different veiws on the Doolz capability ( we threashed it out once :p) so i'd love to see some good figures with it ;) Mapping by say John Dixon would maybe see a bit more and with the likes of AEM, even more again is possible. Good luck! smithy

The large leaks are what generally cause the car to stall at stop signs, small ones usually make the car erratic at certain boost points. It's always handy if you have someone to help listen carefully around the engine for any noise, you can also put little smears of soapy water on various joints. Keep testing until your 100% all have gone, it is possible to have a large number of them after an engine swap. A hose band may look nice and tight on the top, but underneath it's not on straight and slipped of the rubber or silicone, so take your time and you'll sort it ;) As Vijay says, now the biggest one is hopefully sorted, the pressure will be greater on the remaing smaller weak areas. smithy