dixonjohn

I think you have me confused with the other John Dixon, his forum name is johndixon, mine is dixonjohn

If its well in front of the t-top, I might suspect a partially plugged drain hole, water then backs up under the body seal, just where it turns the corner into the opening for the targa. John

It usually shows up inside the car at the "dogs leg " joint between the targa seal and the body seal, but it usually originates elsewhere. I tried all the other remedies, like peanut oil, halfords rubber and vinly treatment, etc. Oil will cause synthetic rubber to swell, simply, oil destroys synthetic rubber, the swelling is the first stage of the destruction. But dont worry, it wont get any worse than that, it would have to be in a bathtub of oil to destroy it. The body seal may benefit from the swelling caused by the oil, but the targa seal does not have the same compression when the window is up against it. Good luck John

Follow this link:http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=32184 Do a search, there are lots of others too. I replaced the t-top seal, but they never go back as tight as they were from the factory. Unless you have more luck than I did, your gonna have to inject some type of liquid seal into them from the outside, by pulling the rubber away from the targa, and inserting the sealer. Like I said in the link, I used "Isoflex", a bit messy, but I was out in an absolute downpour this afternoon, and not a single drop came inside, compared to before when I could get loads in. John

I was just thinking, relocating the series 1 PTU to over by the fuse box would be a cooler spot for it. But, the issue of vibration was raised in another post (by AndyP, I think) so, do you think this new position for the PTU (by the fuse box) will increase or decrease (or stay the same) the vibration ? John

Thanks Dick, Looks good. I will take a look at mine now, if the series 1 fits okay in there, I think I will make do with the one bolt, I dont want to go drilling holes on the sheet metal. Cheers John

Ocassionally, the switch that works off the brake pedal malfunctions, and does not allow you to take the gearshift out of "Park", by pushing down on that little red thing you can put it in gear. Mine does this once in a while, John

Something to do with a build-up of electricity, causing the coolent liquid to carry a charge of electricity that errodes through the radiator and heater matrix in no time. Apparently you can test it yourself, by testing the voltage of the coolent with a standard voltmeter with the engine running, or better still, while cranking the engine. I think anything greater than 0.1v is not good. Do a search on "grounding kits" and you should find a load of information. John

Try mike @MJP (traders section) for heater matrix, quite expensive and takes a long time to fit. It can be advantageous to add extra grounding points, a couple extra ones to you engine and a couple extra ones to your car body. Get a new negative battery terminal (one with extra holes for additional wires) and get some heavy duty wire and terminal lugs from Maplins. Afew people on this forum have demolished heater matrix's in 6 months due to poor grounding. John

Couple of hours is all it needs to set up, stand guard at your car with a 60,000 volt stun gun (make from parts from your local Maplin shop) John

Did you just mount it with the one bolt ? If so is that enough do you think ? John

Thanks Stuart, going out to take a look at mine and look around the fuse box area. John

Thanks everyone.......I guess it makes sense to move it, after I get enough tips and info I will do it this weekend. John

James, no, mines a series 1. But when I bought the car last year included in the documents were several receipts, one was for a new PTU that was installed in April 2002 (and it looks shiny and new'ish) So I am just trying to prolong its life, its only 2 years old. John

Thanks Andy, Quite a lot of custom bits needed for the move, whereas leaving it where it is and adding a fan would be a lot easier I suppose John

Andy, Is there any way to reduce the vibration ? Thanks John

Hi Stuart, Do you have any photos showing the relocation of the PTU, James said you moved it somewhere near the fuel filter I think. Thanks John

Great! :hyper: Thanks John

Do you know if that has been done? Is there enough slack in the wiring? John

:dance: Well, it poured down last night (and right now) very windy too, car is bone dry inside, which is a first. Whoopee........ :) .the Isoflex worked (only for fixing the leak on the straight targa rubber, which is usually the cause of the leak) John

Is it an 80mm or 60mm fan ? John

After thinking about the fan idea, surely the amount of air from a 12v dc fan is nothing compared to what it gets while the car is moving ? (is it only effective when standing still?) John

Sounds like a good idea :cool: , is it the heat that causes the failure then? I wonder if most peoples PTU failures have been in the summer ? John

Yes, I just checked Courtesy site, $180, comes with wiring, screws, bracket, etc. The one on Ebay comes with nothing, but only £50 so far. John

Thanks Vijay, I was curious, I saw one on Ebay, no wiring or bracket though. John