dannyfiveforty

Ok, thanks. I don't know if this would make a difference but over the winter I replaced my hicas rack with a lockout bar and have had the hicas light on ever since and for the last 2000 miles or so it has been fine. The problem has only come apparent since swapping my ecu from a mines to a nistune, but I swapped it straight back to confirm it was the ecu but the fault is still there ... thanks

I have swapped my clocks over for an indiglo set I had lying around in the garage and went for a little drive, when I took them out they worked perfectly (6 months ago) now I am getting no speedometer at all with these gauges and as predicted still no speed reading from the ecu. Is there any way to test the speedometer circuit boards once removed? Also, maybe I should now be actually testing the gearbox sender, should I be looking for a steady voltage? Thanks, Dan

Thanks very much! I will get onto it tomorrow night.

Thanks very much, no it's a UK car with UK clocks. When you say look for dry solder do you mean on the circuit board on the back of the clocks? Cheers

I have plugged my laptop into it and gone for a little run out, I had several gauges on screen including water temp rpm and speed km/ph and km/ph just stays at zero.. Thanks

I have done yes and it's fine. I have gone out in the car this evening and it's doing it again, if I switch the ignition off and back on again it's fine for a mile or so, also the fault code 14 has not showed tonight at all..

I am getting a code 14 and intermittent loss of power steering. I understand code 14 is speed sensor, my speedometer is working fine even when the power steering fails, could they be related? First thing I will do is clean the connectors on the speed sensor, what else can I do to diagnose? Thanks, Dan

Cheers, it arrived today, The software has a lot of 'greyed out' functions as its called 'Free Conzult' Anyway, I am getting a lot of port errors, I am assuming it is because I am using Windows 8, I have tried reinstalling and running it in compatibility mode but am having no luck. Does anybody know where I can either buy or download a version that will work with Windows 8? Many thanks,

I have emailed you Noel

Got it! cheers bud

Really? Fantastic, I will do that and post results. I still want a Nistune though. Don't suppose you have the email address? Cheers

Sorry for late reply I missed this. Its in my Twin Turbo, I have no idea of the specs, it drives good but I want mine tuning on a rolling road..

Yes, I can get the abs to kick in when doing an emergency stop, but only from a fairly low speed. If I try to brake quite hard whilst going fairly quick the brake pedal stops mid travel and wont press any more, the steering wheel shakes quite violently and the car dosn't stop as quick as think it should safely. I guess I am experiencing brake fade also.. Yes I bled the ABS unit. I will study the brake booster for flex. Does anyone here know of anyone local to Stoke on Trent that can drive my car for comparison? Thanks

Cheers, I guess they plug straight into the ecu? Something like this one.. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-14-Pin-Consult-II-OBD-DDL-Mini-USB-Diagnostics-Tool-For-Nissan-Z32-89-00-/181664524469?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2a4c0ca8b5 Thanks

I still have what I consider to be terrible brakes. I have changed my discs twice now and still get steering wheel shimmy when braking anywhere from 40mph and above. Is this bush/steering component related? Under hard braking it is fairly easy to get the pedal to its full travel. To fix this I have bled numerous times, replaced the brake servo and brake master cylinder and also flushed the fluid. (when I say full travel I don't believe the pedal is hitting the floor, but it definitely coming to a dead stop. Any ideas? Many thanks

I think its about time I got my own Consult, I don't know much about it so any advice or guidance would be appreciated, including which version to buy and where from. I currently have windows 8 on my laptop. Many thanks, Dan

Cheers, will bear that in mind I did however listen to the injector and it wasn't firing, I cleaned the connections as best I could and hasnt done it since. If it does it again I will be on the hunt for a PTU, cheers.

I drove my z about 150 miles over the weekend none stop, when the car was restarted from cold (about 6 hours after the 150 mile trip) I noticed it was misfiring, I drove it about 1 mile, stopped the engine, restarted it and it was back on all 6. I drove the 150 miles home with no problem. Last night the problem came back again after a little bit of spirited driving, I turned the engine off and back on but still there, I got the car home and found if I pulled the coil plugs cylinder 5 made no difference. I stopped the engine and swapped the coil pack with cylinder 4 and restarted the engine, seems fine again now. Obviously I will see soon if the misfire has changed cylinder now and will check the resistance accross the injectors, failing these what else should I do, in what order to fix my misfire? Thanks, dan

Cheers guys, I replaced the opposite turbo last year to fix the opposite side smoking and that worked, this time I replaced the turbo on the side that is smoking and its gotten no better or worse, perhaps its pointing to engine then?? I guess I need to be looking at doing a leak down test and or compression test, most garages should be able to do these?? Cheers,

My z, for several years has had a drivers side smoky exhaust. Only when up to temp and only when the ambient temp is anywhere above 15 degrees C. I replaced the pcv valves and it made no difference, I replaced the turbo, albeit a used one and it has made no difference. The smoke is oil/blue. And is only there on tickover, as soon as the revs rise the smoke stops, I can usually control this by pressing the econ (aircon) button as this raises the revs just enough. Are these symptoms turbo? Or potentially engine? What would advise my next step should be? Thanks, dan

Cheers guys! :)

Cheers, can this be done from inside the car?

Over the winter my Z has had its engine and gearbox out, its all back together and so far so good. Except the gearstick seems to be leaning forward more than before. In neutral instead of straight upright (as I seem to remember) it leans slightly forward, when its in fourth it leans only slightly back and when in third it leans quite far forward. Am I missing something?? Thanks, Dan

Cheers, I will inspect them at the weekend, and go from there. :)

Cheers guys, are these subframe and lower arm bushings readily available?