StuartR

Not seen the film:rolleyes: For your autobox - could it be the lock-up kicking in and out (affects rpm by a few hundred). Lock-up is dependent on throttle position, speed, etc. and can go in/out as you drive, especially if you are changing speed (fast - as you do!). For instance, lock-up drops out if you lift off the throttle (IIRC). Overdrive would give larger RPM changes than lock-up - afterall its the same as another gear (in effect). May not be anything to worry about. HTH StuartR

I agree with the others - check your hoses first. The move from summer to winter can cause these to crack, and leak small amounts. If you can see coolant at the top end of the engine/cam covers/radiator then I think its more likely to be a hose than the pump. My top rad hose went when the weather cooled down - just a very small leak (self healing on normal drives!), but enough to want get it changed. Doesn't help that these hoses are held on by those awful wire clips - should get around to some proper jubilee clips one day.... HTH StuartR

As Konrad says could be low battery if the motor is clicking but not turning. I had a similar problem, but not a low battery - instead a loose earth on the starter solenoid. Tightened this up and everything A-OK again. Worth checking these options before you go for a replacement:) StuartR

Hazard a guess that its your lighting circuit fuse that's blown?:rolleyes: Happened with me when I fitted new sounds - the Jap car doesn't have earth on the stereo loom, but when I fitted the light circuit looked very much like earth at the time (before I knew better). When I went to turn the lights on - nothing (the stereo allowed the light circuit to go direct to earth, do not pass go, collect a broken fuse). Only found out after driving the 10 country miles home with no lights (well only main beam, and hazards for courtesy:eek: ) If this is your blown fuse - this is probably the solution! If your lights ARE working, then don't know what else it could be (I remember blowing the warning chime fuse when trying to isolate the problem - not sure how though :confused: ) HTH StuartR

You had any work done lately? PCVs? BOVs or such? Could be 2 things - broken gauge/sender (does the needle move at all) or loose/wrong pipe (does the gauge just sit at zero - i.e. atmosphere). If the latter try following the vacuum hose routings in the link below. The sender is a small box, drivers side on inner wing, near the bulkhead (behind the "big fuses"?). http://www.300zx.lv/catalog/?gr=D&sec=223&pic=B01 If you're unsure of piping, find this sender, and temporarily link it directly to the balance bar across the back of the engine using a small hose (noting where the hose you take off:rolleyes:). Providing all else is OK, you should get good vacuum at tickover on the gauge. Then follow the diagram and check all the hoses for correct connection. Loads of people think this gauge is crap - I've not had any problems with mine though :cool:, but I do like the idea of an aftermarket one in the centre console :D HTH StuartR

I always find that, if all else fails, a pair of right sized mole-grips, put on REALLY tight, normally do the job. Combined with some penetration oil. But you have to be REAL CAREFUL!!! :eek: HTH StuartR

You can see part numbers using the microfiche at: http://www.twinturbo.net/net/ViewFiche.aspx?go=5-A-01 This may not be the exact page, but it definitely shows 31397..... HTH StuartR

I got mine from Nissan in M'Bro. Next day, but a little more than the Halfords price (I think about £25 for two). The Halfords ones didn't fit (after hours of thinking it was me!) - I didn't bugger them about, just rewrapped, went back and moaned, and got my money back. The Nissan ones went straight in (just managed to drop the filter housing bolt into the radiator bay, but thats another story!!) StuartR

Just saying you don't need to think about placing pipes, etc. for a temporary solution - quick and easy ;) If you were to plumb one in permanently, I would certainly consider pipe routing, etc. And some of the vacuum hosing in that area won't give proper boost readings (e.g. if it comes from AIV solenoid, EGR, etc.)

If its temporary, Tee into any of the pipes hanging directly off the balance bar. This will give true boost pressure at manifold. HTH StuartR

Check the link for piccies of how all this piping fits together. Helped me get my vacuum gauge working again after some service work... http://www.300zx.lv/catalog/?gr=D&sec=223&pic=B01 Point to note - the hoses are connected at either end of metal pipes (obviously) - trace where the other end goes before reattaching near the throttle! HTH StuartR

Not too bad of a job for the DIYer. Me and me bro did it in about 6 hours - was first time, and just on axle stands, etc. The more room underneath the easier. We only had two axle stands, so at the gearbox end it was crooked neck, and little movement (just as well you don't need much ooomph at this end!) All the usual good practise applies... 1. Remove exhaust. We did it after the CAT, but may be easier from the manifold. After the CAT involves some tricky stuff with the CAT shields. Remember the be careful with these bolts - lots of penetrating oil, heat, etc. 2. Mark up all the relative positions between prop halves and rear axle. 3. Loosen the prop bolts joining the 2 halves while on the car. This is easier than off the car IMO. Undo the rear axle bolts (you might need a strong allen key!). You need the handbrake to be strong here (and I think we had the car in N) 4. Undo the centre bearing carrier bolts. We actually then broke the prop centre, and took the prop back half off first, and then withdrew the front half. It was easier to break the centre, and then get the rear out of the differential carrier. 5. Remove the stake from the centre bearing bolt, and put the "square" part of the bearing in a vise - it won't turn now. Remove the bolt, and withdraw the bearing using a puller. This bit was much easier than we thought it would be!!! 6. Reverse of all above. The biggest b*tch was getting the exhaust back on again!!! Also helps if you've got a strong handbrake - mine is auto, but i DIDN'T rely on using the parking brake lock - don't want to break it! My bro did the front gearbox mount - it was so quick I disn't have time to see what he actually did - I think its pretty easy though. This cured the vibration problem. Now just need to get the wheels balance......:rolleyes: HTH StuartR

If vibration starts bad when cold, but gets less as the car is driven then this points to propshaft centre bearing or rear gearbox mount (or both!). As the rubber warms up, it gets more pliable and the vibrations get smaller. HTH StuartR

FYI I had starter problems which turned out to be loose earth to solenoid. It would start fine with a jump start, and battery was good. Turns out the solenoid needs as much volts as possible, and the loose earth took the voltage below the threshold. Hence jump start was fine (since you get about 13-14 volts). This also caused my alarm to go off spuriously! Just a quick tighten with a spanner (battery disconnected of course) and no problem since. The nut wasn't actually that loose - could be your problem is as simple as this!:) HTH StuartR

IMO smoke from idle when pulling away (with PCV/turbos eliminated) may well indicate worn valve stem seals / valve guides (less likely). If its smoking, its more likely to be an exhaust stem seal. These are normally rubber, and can go hard and crack after mucho hot use. Normal driving wouldn't show stem seal wear, but when idling oil can seep down the stems and into the exhaust. Only remedy (AFAIK) is heads off :( , new stem seals. Of course could be someting else..... :confused: StuartR

If you wiggle the sensor harness at the connection while the engine is running (careful with those fingers if you want to keep them!) and the aux fan comes on/off, then the harness/connection is naff and needs attention. If this doesn't change the engine tone, etc. at all then you need to look elsewhere!!!:rolleyes: Could be a whole host of things (TPS, injectors, vacuum leak, etc.) - there's plenty good write ups to follow, as well as the online manual. Hope you find it, and get it sorted... StuartR

HELL YEAH (OK what else is there to watch on Sat AM when you're supposed to be laying laminate flooring.....)

I hope you're not ripping the p*ss :p

Oh, and for the TPS I think between 0.4 and 0.5V closed (I set mine to 0.45V). Fully open I think the ECU gets a "Full Open Switch" signal, so the voltage is not so important (??? - could be wrong though LOL) Check your throttle bodies for cleanliness, then adjust the TPS to between 0.4 and 0.5V, then reset the ECU and see what happens! StuartR p.s. anyone know how easy it is to just check timing belt alignment ?

FWIW I found my timing was out by about 15 degrees after a cam belt change. This came about through hearing detting, even in safety boost mode. I reset the timing on the CAS, and all seems fine. I've checked lots of times since, and no movement. I would go for the "belt slip" theory (but not necessarily when running). Perhaps your belt was 1 tooth out BEFORE you changed it, and when you put the CAS back in the same place it would then be 15 degrees advanced! This might explain why performance felt flat in a previous post of yours (i.e. it was retarded too much before, wrt cam timing?) I believe 15 degrees is roughly equivalent to 1 tooth out. Point to remember - the ECU only tells you through Consult, etc. what the engine "thinks" the timing is, based on the mechanical position of the CAS. Its the mechanical adjustment of CAS that actually sets correct timing (not the ECU). HTH StuartR

Those original wheels are might fine, and the car looks sooo cool! :cool: What are they?

If its dead its more likely to be an "Undertaker" engine. A "Stone Cold" engine is one that runs on beer......:D :D

Can't you just tow it a mile or so, and get the AA/RAC to do the rest? If your not in, you may still know someone who is and is covered "any car". And even if you have to join its bound to give you peace of mind, and in any case could come in useful at a later date (if you know what I mean!) StuartR

Might seem obvious (sorry) but have you checked the fuse inside the car (block next to accelerator pedal)? Do the rear lights work? If these are not working, and you get funny dip-main beam action then this is the first place I'd look...found this from dodgy stereo installation, of all things. HTH StuartR

Its attached to the drier receiver, at the front drivers side of the car. You can see this as a can about the size of a bike water bottle with the A/C pipes attached to the top if you look in from the front. The temp sensor (and low pressure switch) are attached to this bottle. You can trace the wire from here to the sender. Could be that these have been reconnected the wrong way around (two connections look very similar), or not even attached at all. I would check this out first..... HTH StuartR