StuartR

I'll get the camera on it tonight - and see about posting something tomorrow.

I've recently replaced my zorst with a Mongoose item (and its fanny-tastic). when the old system fell apart (well the back-boxes literally fell apart). I noticed that the flange from the cat back looked like it had restrictors in each pipe, and about 1.5" in diameter. This is after the cat - this was quite noticable since the Mongoose has a much large diameter (so much that I didn't think it would fit at the time). If anyone is interested I could take a picture - the old exhaust is still in my garage awaiting a trip to the tip. CheerZ StuartR

Hi All, Can anyone confirm that UK std alloys are 7.5JJx16ET35 for front and 8.5JJx16ET42 for the rear? (JSpec would be 7.5JJx16ET35 all round). So if that is correct: changing to 8x18 front would be OK with about 40mm offset changing to 9x18 rear would be OK with about 35mm offset This is calculated using a link from Smithy on a similar thread (http://marksink.com/tire_wheel_offset/offset.html). I need to be sure on this before I spend my wad on new shiny things....... :dance: CheerZ, StuartR

Getting back to the original point there is LOADS of information on this website (just found while aimlessy surfing.......for 300ZX of course! :D ) http://www.300zx.cl/ Lots of magazine scans, loads of roadtests, all the figures you can shake a stick at... StuartR

I'm after a Apexera filter also. Any chance of a group buy getting organised? Cheerz

Cheers fellas. Knew I could rely on the board for some well respected knowledge.......

Hi all, I find myself in the enviable position to spend some hard-earned on my Zed :hyper: . I've already ordered some nice 18" wheels, and since this is putting the insurance up anyway I thought I might as well go the whole hog (or at least start some mods). Since my stock exhaust has developed a small blow on both sides (so I can justify a new one to 'er indoors) I NEED to replace it ( :dance: ). Consensus seems to be Mongoose or Blue Flame (keep thinking Blue Cow - that's what kids do to you!). Where can I get these on the cheap!!! Anyone have any other recommendations? Not wanting to knacker good tubs it will have to be Cat-back. I might as well sort the other end as well :D . Again thinking Apexi induction - some people say its a bit dodgy in the rain - is this a general problem? Most likely going to need some other electronic trickery in the future (boost controller, ECU) but I'll stick to this lot for now. I would like to use club traders if poss. (and price is right) - big believer in keeping "communities" in business. Cheers, StuartR

What has happened to my subscription? :( I've paid by bank transfer, but been downgraded :cry: Messaging Herman hasn't helped - since losing my status, I don't seem to be able to see messages...... Is the club going through more officer changes? :smash: Subscription is well worth it - savings on insurance are worth admission alone, let alone all the experts available for advise etc. Help me juan kenobi........... Cheers, StuartR p.s. I am also one of the many who never received their original subscription stickers, and I guess I'm also waiting for the keyring when someone sorts out my renewal.....I guess good things come to those who wait?

PaulC Thanks! - this checks with the TT.net number :headvswal: sorry for opening up old wounds! :smash: Cheers Stuart

I do hope you wasn't going too fast on the Parkway ;) My favourite is the Guisborough Trunk Road, especially the shortish stretch between the two roundabouts. I've seen off no end of pretend sports cars here - the latest being an V8 A4........ I really like the exhaust look on the white one I've seen in town. I might have to get some of those :hyper: Haven't seen a red one around though (always seem to be in other cars when I see another :slap: !!) Cheers, Stuart

Another from Guisborough. May be able to meet - infant responsibilities depending........ Any of you Teessiders have the silver 300 with the wicked exhausts - big turned up pipes. Last seen outside Enfield chase shops. StuartR

PaulC I know its a long shot, and it was a while ago, but do you have the part no. for the diff pinion seal? Would be much appreciated! Just passed MOT with flying colours, but warned that the diff has started to seep through the pinion seal, so I'll get a new one ordered and prepared for the warmer weather fix.... CheerZ StuartR

Go to http://www.millersoils.co.uk, select "Which Oil?" from the side and search for 300ZX - these give all the capacities, etc. (albeit for "miller" oil!!) for all oils the car needs! FYI - they say the autobox capacity is 8.7l :shock: Cheers Stuart

I didn't know you could buy a nut cracker, sweet ;)

Can you get to the nut to get a (small) grinder or hacksaw on it? - If you can crack the nut using either of these it should then come off pretty easily - you need to be careful to not damage the thread, mind..... Sounds like you need a new nut anyway! Cheers, Stuart

I think many of us have been there! Like I said, found out the hard way one dark winter night! The light/earth circuit had me fooled..... I live in G'Bro, so I can often be seen hammering it past the Cross Keys home from work - scary how fast you can get on that trunk road!!!!! If you can't get to the bottom of it, give us a shout and I may be able to help....... Stuart

Jester If you're driving a J-Spec, could be bad earth choice on the stereo. This will short through the lighting circuit causing no lights (I found out at about 21st Dec - shortest day - and ended up driving home on full beam with fogs!) Another in Teeside? Whereabouts? Cheers StuartR

When engine off, if you disconnect the hose and let it hang free, does your gauge still read at this value? Looks like its plumbed in somewhere that should be OK, so may be a duff gauge (or needs recalibrating). Cheers.

None taken ;) I have Pioneer stuff in my car - head and speakers. Now I know they're not ultimate quality (but then I can't justify huge amounts of cash for marginal improvements in sound - twin babies tend to soak up moola at an extraordinary rate!) but they do for me. And these don't have indicated polarities (although do have thick/thin connections). My take is that it is important to get all the polarities for all the speakers the same. I have switched polarity when fitting head units, and TBH I really couldn't tell the difference :confused: But then I don't understand how some people think LPs sound better than CDs :eek: I guess if there are distinct markings, you should stick to them! I would! Cheers :duffer:

I think they have ;) - the sender is located on the driver's inner wing, near the bulkhead. This sends an signal to the electric gauge on the dash - hence it goes off to the left when off (rather than stay centered).

So explain how this makes a difference then? The sound is produced by vibrating the speaker - this means it moves both ways, and for a defined frequency it moves both ways equally, the distance of movement determining the volume. AFAIK there are no "diode" style components in speakers, so the direction of the current should not affect the sound. As for being proud of my sound - is that so that everyone else can hear it as well? MAX POWER stylee? My system is fine for me (and probably most others) - its not transistor based - and I drive a Nissan, not a seat.

Guys, I'm no expert ;) , but when the engine is off (but ignition on) you should see 0 boost (midway on the standard gauge). If ignition is off the gauge goes all the way to the left. For the other descriptions substitute my positions with real numbers :confused: !!!! When idling I think it should be around the first small mark (going from left). When slowing on engine braking it should almost be at the large mark on the left (full vacuum). On steady acceleration (no boost) it should go between about 1/4 and midway (from the left). At steady speed mine (at least) reads anywhere on the first left hand quarter of the stock gauge (depending on load). On boost (full acceleration) it should go almost all the way to the rightv - penultimate mark (std car!) In safety mode I think it only goes about 1/2 way into right hand section of gauge. Like I say, substitute number based on your gauge and needle position (J-spec, euro,etc.) I know a lot of people say the standard gauge is pants, but I've never had any problems with mine :nelson: (aside from someone plumbing it in wrong!) and I think it does exactly what its supposed to! MarkW - 500-600mmHg is about 10-11.5 psig - I think this is standard boost :p

I'm changing speakers at the moment - mine don't have +/- marked (but are thick/thin connectors). I don't think its a massive deal which way the wires go, as long as all the speakers are the same, otherwise you will get one speaker interfering with the other, with loss of volume and quality. BTW, if you are replacing the rears a couple of points I've noted: 1. You CAN get to the speaker by removing the fabric grill - no need to remove all of the trim, etc. Just pull the grill at the base (long edge) towards the side of the car, and they should pop off, allowing access to the old speakers. 2. When I initially put my replacement 6x4s in, there was a gap left around the speaker - you need to make sure there is no gap (or you'll get no bass). Some MDF/hardboard should do the trick. HTH

You have to test the volts while the TPS is connected (so it gets a feed from the electrical system) - if disconnected you won't get a reading :confused: I think you can adjust the TPS by listening for the idle "click" - turn until you hear a small click (signalling closed throttle) and then just turn back a notch. TBH I would go the volts route meself, or even better get a consult on it :cool: HTH StuartR

Have you checked your timing? Mine felt a bit slow until I redid the timing, and I'm back to rocketship again :hyper: