Flying Machine

Hi Chris - yes I was gonna ask you about this, cos I left my kit standard out of the box. Mine works fine thought the dump sounds a bit weak I must admit. Like an RS turbo. :hurl: I'll call you later about the gauge pods anyway. :cool:

Amen definitely do the shocks! Replaced all four on mine and couldn't believe the difference. The rear used to track every tramline and bump in the road - felt like someone had loosened the rear toe link it was that bad...

That's interesting cos I had a noise just like this at very low idle (too low pro'lly) at 650rpm, coming from the back of the engine around the injectors. As soon as you tap the throttle it goes away, and so far (touch wood) it seems to have gone away after a good long hard drive. Could it be a noisy injector?

Hello All Is anyone running an HKS EIDS to try and cure the stalling / cutting problem on lift off when running vent to atmosphere bov's? It's not such a prob on mine at the moment, but my bov's are set to a very low tension - just the occassional pop on lift off. But a few members are having big problems with stalling on theirs. Did the EIDS work on yours? Any other problems caused by it? http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=2175 Cheers Derek

Hi! Did this job yesterday, wasn't too bad at all. I also removed a turbo technics breather kit at the same time. I made a list of stuff that needs removing, let m eknow if you want it and I'll post it. Also took a load of photos which I can post on here if it helps. Oh, I also changed all 5 pipes including the little bu***r at the back, as the others were in such a crappy state inside. But frankly I wouldn't bother. It was a nightmare to get to and refit, with spring clips firing in all directions... It was also virtually clear compared to the other pipes I removed...

PS Alex where are you in West London? I'm in Maida Hill / Paddington - I've seen lots of Z's around here...

Hi mate - I just fitted one a few weeks ago. ECU is a doddle obviously. Boost control also easy, just takes a little time if you want a neat installation. Greddy Profec B is among the simplest I believe... I'm sure Chris has furnished you with all the information you need! The only thing I would say is if you are mounting it anywhere near the clock I found the easiest place to route the signal pipe and wiring loom for the valve is together through the drainage pipe grommet above the ecu on the passenger side. There is a grommet on the firewall, and a big rubber bung behind it on the passenger cabin side. Do it at the same time you have your ecu out for a bit more space. It comes out beneath the battery and is out of the way of sharp edges and hot stuff. And in case you are wondering (as I was) the wiring supplied is long enough to reach the front bumper / cross member to the centre of the cabin if you route it this way.

I'm gonna do mine tomorrow along with a few other jobs. I'll make any notes of difficult/awkward bits and might take a few photos. The write up on the tt website is good but written for a left hooker, so a lot of the stuff you need to remove is on the other side of the engine. I'm also removing a turbo technics breather kit and putting it back to standard so I might incorporate that in a write up if it would help anyone else... Cheers Derek

Ok disregard all after 'Ok, back home now...' Had a look with a torch and a mirror, I can now see where the breather kit bypasses it. It's coming off!

Ok, back home now and had a look at the turbo technics breather kit on my car. It has a tee-piece at the back of the driver's side plenum, and bloody hoses going everywhere. Is it straghtforward to remove it with the full 5 hose pcv kit? Or do they remove anything else that I will need to buy to put it back to standard? Thanks, Derek

Ta! That's saved about 2 hours work then. ;)

Hi. Just wondering of it's ok to share the same signal vacuum hose I use for my Profec B that is routed in behind the centre stereo facia, for the sensor for my Greddy Electronic boost gauge, having them both tee'd together and sat next to each other. I thought about plumbing them separately but firstly I didn't want to run anything else through the bulkhead if I don't have to, secondly I thought It'll just be another potential leak point if I do, and finally, that the plenum is covered in vacuum lines that are tee'd into each other and split off in various directions anyway... Is this ok to do this? I was just worried about one interfering with another, causing an innacurate measurement of the boost. Cheers Derek

Speak to Chris at GetGreddy for the chip. He does an exchange ecu - new one turns up, bolt it in, send your old one back, deposit returned. I have run one for the last 2 months and am very happy, I was running 14psi with boost jets and stock ecu before and was permanently worried. :nono: Various people do brake upgrade options on here, eg z-centre. I have just gone for new aftermarket rotors (slotted) and high performance pads, braided brake hoses etc and it's much better, but you could go for a Skyline upgrade or more if you want. For what I do the rotors are enough. ;)

Right, that's enough for me then, they're coming off tomorrow!!! :nono: Is the full pcv kit (5 hoses and valves) enough to replace the whole thing? Got some splicing to do tomorrow too. All the injector and coil connectors.

Right ok. I got the whole 5 hose kit and new pcv's so I think I'll bin the TT setup and go back to stock setup. The car has had an iffy idle for some time so I'm hoping this might help (having done all the other stuff, tb's etc). When I get my gauge I'll get in touch and send you up the mounting boss to weld into the rad pipes. What turn around time do you need on the rad pipe kit? Cheers Derek

Smithy - yes exactly, that's it! Like two bulbous plastic 'floats', except one of them keeps spewing its guts out if you put any tension on the hose. Sorry I don't have a picture - I'm in Orlando til Sunday and I got some parts delivered to the hotel, a pcv kit. What can I do with them then? Get replacements or get rid of them altogether? PS I also have a water temp gauge coming. Do you need the boss to be supplied for fitting in one of your hardpipe kits, or can you just weld in an 1/8 NPT boss? Cheers Derek

Yeah sorry the posting wasn't clear. I have 5 hoses and 2 metal valves threaded on one end in the kit - they are definitely the pcv valves in the diagram on the courtesy website. But on my car I have 2 plastic valves, much bigger, with a diaphragm in them, one each side of the engine, just above the throttle body hoses. When one fell appart as I was removing the boost hoses, I could see a rubber flap inside, full of oily residue... Does anyone know what these are?

Hi All I just picked up a complete pcv kit (valves and pipes) here in the USA, and the pcv valves, while they are obviously the right part (I checked the diagram on the Concept Z website) are different looking to what I was expecting. My car has 2 rather ugly plastic valves which are falling appart and sit just above the boost hoses by the throttle bodies. I need these two as well as they literally fall in half when you touch them. What are these? When you open them up they have a diaphragm inside and have a hose either side. Obivously my car is in the UK so I can't give any more detail than that... Cheers Derek

Ok. I'll try Chris at GetGreddy then. I like the hard pipe rad kit but can't really budget for that right now... From what I see pressure senders are 1/8 BSP usually, and temp senders are 1/8 NPT. Except on this car everything seems to be 1/8 BSP as it's Japanese... :-( I don't suppose you remember what internal diameter the top hose is? Cos Demon Tweeks do one with the correct thread in it already, so saves the need to get it re-tapped. They do a 35mm one and a 40mm one...

Evenin' All I have got an SPA dual digital gauge for oil pressure / water temp on its way, and was wondering where best to mount the water temp sender unit? Also do you know what size of sender unit mounting I need to fit the water pipe? I have seen the usual generic ones in the Demon Tweeks catalogue - the machined aluminium type. Anyone on here sell them? Would rather spend my money with folks on here. ;) Thanks Derek

Thanks, yeah the car wasn't here and I needed to order one but couldn't measure it. Anyway, one's on the way now. ;-)

£25 from Option Motorsport at Silverstone... Could probably get it cheaper if you phone around a bit.. ;-)

Yep it's a single. Splendid! One on it's way then... Thanks.

Hi there! I need to buy a replacement filter element for my 300zx tt - it has an HKS green 'mushroom' type filter in it at the moment. The problem is the car isn't here at the moment, so I can't measure the size, but are they normally 200mm or 150mm ones on our cars? The guy on the phone said it would almost certainly be 200mm, but to check first. Oh, he also said they sell yellow replacement elements. I take it the colours aren't coded for different types / levels of filtration are they? Cheers Derek

Oh ok, that's good then! I'll shut up and drive it. ;-)