Sparkysparks

I think that's the NA one that was orange. Its impressive from an engineering view. But for driving everyday, no. Just way to much. And I like this stuff. I do like the wheels, just not at 45degrees

Damn. That's a shame. I need to get side lights into my lights aswell as the Indicators. May have to wire some LEDs in with aswell. Thanks guys

Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/371423882384 The ad says up to 96 but they do look like 99 spec shaped lights. Tia Mark

I think I've had it 6 or 7 months. There's no real rust underneath. There was alot that another member cut out and reinforced. But I've had a look and it all seems sound under there. I have found some boost leaks in the past and repaired. Idle starts at 1200 then warms and comes to about 800. But it is up and down a bit sometimes. Id still like to do a leak test when I've got time because something's not right.

For parts! So I've saved this car. That feels good. Lots of small issues with it like, the turbos smoke a little puff every now and then. They're certainly not gone like the ad said they were. Something is dripping oil an I get the burnt smell through the cockpit. Irregular idle. Consult is showing the idle control valve at 35%. And this boost issue. And the drivers door sticks out. And the boot is a bit of a mess. Bad paint and bad prep so that will need addressing. And I'm fighting with some blue tint glue on the rear window. I have also found some over spray around the car.

I believe it has been round the forum a bit. It came with alot of johnwayne membership stuff. And I know another member done some welding on it. The interior still needs alot of cleaning. The suede parts are matted with dirt.

I've been having injector and boost issues lately. First injector went. Resulting in the injector breaking on removal. So the plenum had to come off giving me an excuse to tidy things up and have a look around. Lots of deletes done. Still more to do. Now I'm tackling a code 34. Resistor is in but I'm still not getting full boost. It has a suspension clonk and squeak which I'm sure is down to poly bushes but needs full investigation. Plans realistically for me are get it lower. Louder. Faster and clean up.

It's about time I got some pictures of this up on here. Been getting a lot of advice and I don't have a build thread. Exterior is largely unchanged. I've just tidied up the front bumper fixings. It's still not right though.

I need 3 actually. I have an idea. Tyres are not an issue for me as they will be changed. Also how did a slicktop get like this in the first place

What is the fate of the yellow spares?

Spoiler less pic just for fun

Open line. Drivers balance bar Open plugs. I know one of them is boost solenoid as I took it off. And again I know one of them is boost solenoid. Mash of lighting wires. And I found this guy. It's bit of a mess tbh. Lots of unfinished blanks

I done it. Thanks for the info guys :D

Yes I should re sub really. I keep meaning to do so. Ill get on it tonight. I will check the above but im sure ive not seen power come up on the dash.

Ill get some up tonight. What am I looking for? Theres a few things im not sure if my last one had. Open brake pipe next to the booster, extra hose near the power steering pot.

Boost solenoids taken from the bay yes. Not electronically deleted. That's interesting. My ecu has manual written on it. I just assumed it was a replacement not a conversion. V5 says manual

Consult on a cold engine. Code 34 kept recurring so it still is an issue. Timing looked well off to me but did decrease to 25btdc as it warmed up

Nevermind, found it, 0.5watt. Will report back when ive got it fitted, Thanks

What wattage resistor am I to use for this bypass? I cant find that on the info for it.

I see, great info. I have also read that the knock sensor is ignored in higher revs anyway. So bypassing it doesnt seem a big issue to me. Ill get a 1megaohm resistor ordered as i only have 300k's at the minute and give it a go. Thanks

Well thats what i thought. Ive taken away its ability to safe boost. So is it all in the timing. Its retarding timing because it cant reduce boost? The cas seems to be central in its bolt holes if that helps.

Ive not checked since but I had erased it before and got a nice code 55. I tried it and it still feels the same. Will check tonight. Regulating boost purely by boost controller. Something else to note is that the boost gauge on the dash is reading 14psi, after market gauge reading 7, but it feels no where near 14 psi.

Went to bypass the plug sensor today and found this broken wire. Same on the plug but tucked away. I know it says on other forums that this is on purpose. But it looks like a bodge to me. So I reconnected it. And the plug side was the same. So I connected that aswell. Still boosting at max 7. Stuck now

That's great Stephen thanks. Although if it's fine to run without I'll bypass aswell. I realise I've worded this wrong. I tested the wiring to the ECU and it was reading fine. So it's wiring to the sensor that's at fault. I have consult and just read the codes. Sure enough 34. So I have erased that and I'll see if it's cured tomorrow or not. Hopefully it's only holding back because I've had it all disconnected recently.

Yes I don't want to take the lower plenum off but if taking the upper off gives enough room I can do that. I need access to it even if its just for the loom. I'll try the resistor bypass for now untill I can source a sensor and loom. Or just leave it bypassed