petes21st

My ECU is now giving me a code 13 for 'Coolant Temp sensor' Ive give it a little scratch clean and the car seems desperate now to start. It seems one click away from starting. Any help? Are there any places to check the wire loom for a good signal? what resistances should i be picking up? My guess is that its a wire loom issue now but i havn't checked any resistances yet so any help here would be appreciated

im having similar problems, how much was a new cas?

ah ok, first thing you need to sort out is that dump valve situation. Can you get some pictures of the area either side of the electic fan underneath the maf

Did you remove a filter when you took this picture?

do you live nearby anybody with a z on this site?

It will not search for "car wont start with fuel and spark"

yes your maf is fine, and you should have two dump valves which is no doubt the problem your getting. Either get another fump valve with hard pipe and install it on the other side (expensive) or locate some standard recirc valves which are located under the maf either side of the electric fan (probably still installed) and reconnect them removing the dump valve on your car

ok, i have both spark and fuel but its still not starting, i can hear the fuel pump, ive pulled 3 of 6 spark plugs and they're all wet with fuel and spark. I have used a torch to look inside the cylinder and they're are not flooded and do have fuel injecting when trying to start. I have cleaned the CAS connection

No mate, a few days ago i had an issue with it running on 5 cylinders which i narrowed the problem down to no spark on no.1, so i replaced the spark plug which made no difference, turned it off then tried to turn it back on and it wouldn't start again Narrowed that down to no spark at all, replaced with S2 PTU and no change Si, i cannot find an adaptor for a 10mm sparkplug for a compression tester anywhere local mate so ive not bought one yet

CAS? or cas connector?

but if they're both buggered?

2nd hand mate but its looks in good nick and from what i know they dont breakdown, is this wrong?

Just been fiddling with the ECU loom, and it ok, its seated correctly Its funny you should mention this as i have had trouble with the ECU before, after i had it chipped i had a problem with the electric fan staying on but that got resoldered and its been fine since. Are there any fuses i should check?

Im getting no spark on any cylinders now, 2 days ago cylinder one had no fuel which was causing it to run on 5 cylinders, 2 days before that it was missfiring, 2 days before that it had a high idle.

My car is having missfiring issues which some of you would have read about recently and ive narrowed it down to cylinder number one not firing. (Running on 5 cylinders) Note:The connector on number one is the only broken connector. (still seats ok) All injectors are clicking All coilpacks are working All Coilpack connectors are working So i fiqured that it must be the spark plug, so i removed the plug and its covered in black powder (Overfueling) which says again that its not sparking But its only just dawned on me... Its dry... Does that matter? EDIT- CAR NO LONGER STARTS! Ive installed a new spark plug in cylinder one (same type) and it made no difference to the car running when i connected it up, i turned it off and then on again and it will no longer start. It has a new battery and the fuel pump is priming It is turning over but will not fire (no fuel) All injectors are clicking Ive cleaned the PTU connections (series 1) Ive cleaned the CAS connection There is a lot of black fuel marks on the road behind the car (possibly from 5 cylinder problem) Ive removed the new plug and it is dry UPDATE: I have fuel but no spark on all cylinders Spark plugs are wet and getting fuel New Series 2 PTU installed, Still not firing What else makes it fire? __________________

As above, absolutely love it, love the arches and roofline the most

so what car are they from?

Thats the first time ive seen forum based spam

Then there should be one on the opposite side too, post up a picture via http://www.photobucket.com

one that you can see? where is it?

its probably just a boost leak mate, do you have anybody local to give you a hand? Try listening for escaping air and feeling around all the pipes for air, does it have dump valves fitted?

Does it have an electronic boost controller? Or were boost tips or welding tips mentioned when you bought it? Do you know if it has been chipped?

pull the connector of with the car running, no change means its buggered. if the revs change or it stalls its ok. The spark plugs u were asking for will be NGK PFR6B-11C for a Standard twin turbo or NGK PFR6B-11B for a twin turbo running uprated boost

did you check the maf? its located under the panal between the headlights

thats turd