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I need second opinions, because I'm cacking myself about this... engine rebuilt with forged pistons, bigger cams, etc. I'll hopefully get it back tomorrow (wehay!!!). I know there's a few of you guys on here who've had to suffer a run-in. So: .what's the best fuel to run in on (keep in mind I'll probably be poodling around for 1200-odd miles (loads of fill-ups!)) .what's the optimium speed/type of driving to do? I assume constant speed motorway stuff isn't ideal .I'm gonna drop the rev-limit in the ECU so I can't possibly (hopefully) blow it up. What's best to set it to? 4K? What's gonna happen when the engine hits the new limit? Does it just run, or start missing? .I've got 2 weeks to try to get all this mileage done! Where the bl**dy h*ll am I gonna drive to?! You know I'm gonna be out til 3am driving round Southend sea-front every night?! Sheeit.

Mine used to be noisy for about 30 secs from a cold start. It came down to poor oil flow around the heads cos the whole lump was really gummed up.

What's this?!... BBC1 trying to cash in on channel 5's Matrix night by showing the crappy Johnny Mnemonic?! Crikey.

I once had a 300 with a switch under the dash to cut the windo wipers. For why..?!! I still wouldn't mind knowing what your big red switch does. Glad you got it sorted ;)

Crikey, DON'T PRESS THAT!!! It's the self-destruct!!! I don't remember any red switch under my steering. I can't imagine what it's for, unless it's a starter cut-off. You reckon?!

Er... if the fuel pump kicks in when the key's turned and the ECU can run a diagnostic, then obviously the ECU's not imobilised... so it's either a cheap (non-CAT2) imobiliser which hasn't turned off properly (and still cuts the starter)... or something in the imob's busted (and never un-cuts the starter)... or the wire to the starter's busted... or the starter's fook'd... or... I dunno. Maybe try bump-starting it if it's a manual... making sure you've got enough people to get it back to a parking space if it won't start.

It's the wrong way round, but if you walked into SE at the moment and started talking about a full rebuild, I think Pete might burst into tears. They've had a lot of work to do, but they are getting there. Mine's at the end of the line now, but it's been 6-odd months... painful, but I trust they're gonna get it right so I just bite my knuckles and wait. Not that this answers your question. If you were talking about "just" doing a mapping, I'm sure they'd fit it in much quicker. And do a good job.

It's black I tells ya. Silver never looks really clean... doesn't get a full on deep shine like black. Red looks too cheap and plastic. Jap Ferrari wannabee, as Nig said. White is reserved for MFI furniture. Yellow... you're driving a freakin' banana for crying out loud! Grey - it's black but it's faded, and hence it looks nasty. Deepest darkest blue... I could almost accept. But only if it's sooo deep it looks black, except in bright sunlight. This is a mean mother of a car - you don't want women looking at it saying: ooh isn't she pretty! You want everyone to be afraid! If you go tearing up behind some slow moving traffic you want the guy in front to look in his mirror and say: holy f*ck, what the h*ll is that thing?!.. then immediately dive into the nearest ditch to get out of your way! Having to pull over to blow chunks because your car is some vile yellow rubbish isn't the same thing. Maybe a bit brutal. But hey - it's Friday.

Yeah, alright - coat's on and I'm half way out the door.

I could have the wrong end of the stick, but wasn't the conversation more like: standard turbos were good for up to 400 bhp? I can't see just those mods making that much power. I'm probably wrong.

Hold up, you said osf... I'll get me coat.

If it aint a leak, maybe the overflow's overfull. Check the white dip-stick at the front pas corner. Just a thought.

If anyone's interested, SE will be doing me a switchable 2-map EPROM for standard and optimax. I'll be running 555's, forged pistons, 2 bar, bigger cams, blah, blah, blah... so when I get some plots I'll post them up. Only if they're look good tho.

Hey, nice tool AndyP! Wish I'd seen this before I sat down with a calculator. I think a choice of wheels and tyres has to go something like this (I'm no expert, but it's what I had to go through): .Find a set of wheels you like the look of, that you can afford, and that are made in reasonable sizes... it's no good falling in love with a set that only go 16 dia by 7 wide. For a 300 you really wanna be thinking 18 by 9 minimum for the back and 18 by 8 minimum for the front. You could go for 17's, but you'll have problems with those phatt 6-pot calipers and huge discs later. You could go for 19's, but you'll either have to go for a stupid-low profile to get a decent width (expensive), or go for a narrow width to get an affordable profile (looks naff). I've heard 19's on our roads make the car feel like shyte anyway because tramlining, potholes etc feels worse. .Read up about tyres and find some you like the spec on. Make sure they go to a high speed rating, like Z (most decent tyres do). Keep in mind some companies charge (or used to) a fortune for sub-30 profile tyres, and generally profiles go in 5 percent blocks. .Start doing some width/profile/diameter calculations. I basically work everything into overall diameter, so you can see the percentage error between your new size and the standard size. It's really the backs you don't want too much error on because that's where the speed gets calculated from. Obviously, you don't want a lot of error on the front either or your car's gonna look stupid (big, puffed-up fronts?!) Standard UK: 225/45/16 front, 245/40/16 rear gives overall diameter: 608.9mm front, 602.4mm rear. Based on what people have said here: Fronts: 235/40/18's = +5.96%, 645.2mm dia 245/40/18's = +7.28%, 653.2mm dia 245/35/18's = +3.25%, 628.7mm dia * 245/30/18's = -0.77%, 604.2mm dia Rears: 265/30/18's = +2.29%, 616.2mm dia * 265/35/18's = +6.69%, 642.7mm dia 275/35/18's = +7.85%, 649.7mm dia 285/30/18's = +4.28%, 628.2mm dia 285/35/18's = +9.01%, 656.7mm dia (* = that's me) So... after being told 285's could rub in standard arches with lowered suspension, I ruled them out. Then you've also got to consider how wide the tyre is in relation to the width of the rim... 235mm = 9.25in 245mm = 9.65in 265mm = 10.43in 275mm = 10.83in 285mm = 11.22in Take half the difference between the tyre width and the rim width, then compare it to the sidewall height (don't make me show these!) and you'll get an idea of how bowed-out (or in!) the tyre will be on the rim. Which could also translate to a naffness factor. .When you're ready, call up a reputable tyre/wheel distributor and try to buy the lot as a package - you'll probably save a bundle. You'll probably also find they've already done all these calculations and know the best size/profile combination for the 300 anyway. Anyone still awake?

Oooh... 245/35/18 front, 265/30/18 rear. 285's (IMO) look to big on 9.5's, and that's the biggest Kahn make RS-Rs... I think (it's wot I got). SE have started doing some 5-spoke 19's if you're interested. They look kinda big.

Oh man, I can't believe this needs any more discussion. It's black! I could probably prove it, given enough time and money to do the research.

As far as I was aware, the cams are the same in autos and manuals, but there's a slight difference between different Z32 series. I have an auto... SE have reprofiled mine but I only really went for it cos everything else was getting done, like a sticking exhaust valve... and 2 busted pistons. Really can't wait to get it back. I'll let you know what the torque curve looks like. It's only a mild reprofile so shouldn't run lumpy at idle.

ROM Editor can address the later 512 Kbit EPROM... so you could make your own map. I haven't looked that these ECUs yet cos I heard they weren't that common. Apparently, you could pull the entire ECU out and stick an older (8-bit) one in (they're supposedly edge-connector compatible), but if the cams are different you'd maybe wanna optimise that map anyway. This could all be bollox of course. I make it up as I go along :D

Makes sense I s'pose. Not that many of my farts sound like goose-honks. Unless I've had sprouts.

My standard boost recirculation wotnots used to make an annoying *farting* noice. Really quite embarassing. But I don't get it any more cos I've got a pair of Blitz dump valves :) I dunno if that's your problem, but it sounds like it.

Don't go getting all techy now Mart. Hey MART! What the fuq are you doing on a 300 forum?! You KNOW 3-spokes are the way! Think of all that ventillation! Really tho, to be true, you wanna go 1-spoke. And keep that diameter so small your tyres will be high enough profile you'll float if you stray into a lake. Oh, man... low-pro is /so/ last week!

LOL! Could make testing HICAS in a slalom, or round some nice tight bends quite hairy!

There you go - Stu's got a nice set you can have! I presume they're, like, 13 inch or somink?! That would /totally/ blow the chicks away (literally!). Low profile is out, man! Big, fat rubber is where it's at! You could even chrome them up! Bling, bling!!! :cool:

Thanks guys. Simple explanations are always best. I'll be down at B&Q at the weekend to see if they stock infinite baffles. Obviously a closed-sphere infinite baffle would be best, or I'll have to drive around with the boot open and a bit of rag hanging from the edge so people behind don't crash into it. No wait, forget infinite MDF baffles - how about a genetically engineered oak tree planted in the boot that's designed to grow infinitely fast? Think of the oxygen it'd produce! I might even get an EU grant. OK - bad idea discussed rationally. I still reckon it'd be totally f'kin hilarious to make a kick-ass sub bubble with a tiny driver. But I haven't worked out how to re-map the laws of physics yet :D

Eh? Not 5-spoke Kahns?! You wanna nice set of 3-spokes - they look the dogs-bollox on a 300! EVERYONE should have different wheels to me, so mine stand out more! ;) BTW: no worries James - I had a beer and all the worry went away :D