Giant slayer

speed sensors are pretty expensive. I would spend part of the weekend getting the clocks out and soldering the joints. that is free and if it solves the problem you have saved yourself buying a speed sensor that hasnt solved anything. When my speedo used to stick if i tapped the plastic face at the front or the cowling on the top it kicked back in. If yours does this it is definietly a problem with the connections in the clock not the speed sensor. If this doesnt work it could also be the clocks if the bad connection is really dried up.

my car had a cambelt change by nissan at 103k (it has the nissan soft metal stamp with the miles inprinted) would nissan have changed everything that was needed for the 120k service or 60k service when doing it? Would obviously be impossible to say but would nissan have a standard procedure when changing the cambelt at this interval. I dont have the reciept for this so not sure but i believe the engine bay label to be geniune.

hold on. It isnt your speed sensor. I had the same problem with mine. all of a sudden one day it didnt lift from 0 then it kicked in and started working then it fell over to 180 then worked again when going over a certain speed, stopped again and so on..... I had the speed sensor swapped and it made no difference. The problem is with your actual clocks. The solder joints become dry and loose conection. You can take your clocks apart and melt the solder on each joint individually with a soldering iron and hopefully you hit the right one and cure it. Sounds bad but not that difficult. Unfortunately mine didnt work even after resoldering twice so i bought a new set of clocks (well actually i bought Jap clocks and transferred the speedo clock and put on my old mph face and recalibrated). There is actually a set of UK clocks here for sale http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=101743 good oportunity/excuse to install uk spec mph clocks if you have an import.

it is a brave thing to do heading into london on that road in the mornings because it always seems like gridlock when i go past. where do you live/work around london? I live between acton and chiswick and work in greenford.

think that is a good chance of being me. didnt see you at all as i am normally watching out for people cutting over lanes from the slip road and "retaining the right speed" whilst going through the speed camera. That is my commute to work (although i struggle to leave at that time in the morning most days) so i am suprised i havent seen you or you seen me before. Infact i dont think i have ever seen another zed on my commute in over 2 years!

the motorway one is pretty good. I would be happy limping upto 300miles on a full tank! Is yours TT or non-turbo?

you know who is driving your car but if there are two or you on the policy and the camera is located in a place you both use regularly to do the shopping, pick people up, get petrol etc and it is on a normal week night and you dont see the camera flash how are you supposed to remember indefinitely who was driving at that exact point when the ticket comes through 6 weeks later?

so what is the crack with requesting the photos to try and work out yourself who was driving? It is easy not to know who was driving because the fine normally comes through weeks later and if you were caught on a road that you and other people who drive your car use regularly how are you supposed to remember who was driving at that time if you didnt see the flash?

thanks for that info athene. what a bl00dy pain in the but these road laws are nowadays! Where it says; and cannot discover the identity of the driver using reasonable diligence. what does this actually mean? Are you able to request the picture taken to try and identify the driver? I am worried i will be getting a letter through the post soon and my girlfriend, who is a named driver, has a french driving licence and cant collect point so i am hoping she is shown as the one who was driving.

a place i recomended before for wheel repairs are http://www.acewheelrepairs.net they can literally fix any kind of damge to your wheel and are not just refurbers like 99.9% of the companies you will find. mention your are a member of this club when you are getting a quote and they should honour it with a 10% discount.

where can i get them from? I suppose they are better than nothing for the mean time though? I have left all the original clips and ties where they are just given extra securing and securing where there was none like the PCV hose Fuel or vac lines going into the balance bar for a non-return valve and all the vac lines going to and from the solenoids etc.

not tieing them down but clamping them onto where they should be. not crushing the pipe or anything. 17 year old spring clips surely cant be as secure as they used to be.

went round my engine bay with a bag of cable ties and secured all the hoses. Was shocked to see when i was removing the balance bar that some important fuel hoses are just held in place by a will and a prayer! went round securing all the hoses paying special attention to the vaccum and fuel lines. May not do anything but a if it saves having a vac leak or a slight fuel leak it is worth it!

Got the pipe anthony and it fitted up and doesnt leak anymore. Thanks again.

what happened to them? Trust me they can repair anything. Check out their website to see some of the horrorshows they have dealt with!

just had an email from the guys there saying they will offer club members a 10% discount if you mention you are a member here when you ask for a quote.

if you are just going to go for normal insurance cover Bell, elephant and admiral (all part of the admiral group anyway) seem to be the cheapest for younger drivers with low no claims.

have been doing more searches about the bypass and the coolant system. Everyone seems to say it is pointless warming the TB's in our moderate climate. Can i just ask why you would want to warm up the throttle bodies anyway? It seems counter productive to warm up incoming air on a turbo charged car that has done its best via intercoolers to loose heat?

What real races or Forza? Once i get this coolant hoses sorted i will be happy that my car is almost 100% bob on. Forza wise, i havent played it much recently but have a pretty quiet weekend coming up so might get it out then.

not really a Halo fan. Couldnt really get into Halo 2 so wont be buying 3. maybe i just dont like that genre. Gears of War didnt really make an impact on me either. The one i am waiting on for the 360 is GTA4!!!!

got the PM anthony and have replied. It is acutally the hose that is coded 14056-NJ that is leaking. I miss-read the diagram. Thanks danny. I will see how i far with this replacement before i start planning the bypass. But when i decide to do it i will give you a call to get hold of the silicon lines. My second question about the bypass is....is it only the coolant feeds to the TBs that need to be removed? The rubber coolant lines in and around the turbos are retained?

to be honest after looking at all the How To.... threads and digging about under the coil packs tonight it doesnt seem too hard but I need to get it roadworthy for monday but i will certainly consider it in the future but there are a few questions i have about it. The first one is can i use vac line that was scavenged from the AIV removal for the bypass?

really! you would be a lifesaver if you could get it to me by the weekend. I will send you a a pm with my address.

after extensive poking about this evenning i have discvoered it is actually a leak in 14056-NH which is under coil pack 1 (or the one that is bottom left corner when looking from the front of the engine bay). The coolant is dripping out here and trickling down the plenum and hitting the turbo exhaust manifold. It is a pesky bit of rubber pipe with only a slight bend in it. it is about 2" long. Does anyone know where i can get this from by the weekend. I am diving 170 miles to sheffield and back on monday so need the car ship shape by then.

oh ok so it connects to a metal section that travels under the plenum rather than a water feed into the block. Dont think i am mechanically confident enough to do a full water bypass to be honest. looked through some threads and the TT.net write up http://twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=technical&msg_id=880107 I think i will first try another jubilee clips to see if that stops it then invest in a new elbow if the problem doesnt stop. I would think a standard replacement would last ok as this one has only just gone after 17 years and a possible knock from a spanner when the O2 sensors were replaced. any tips on getting to this little tube as the plenum covers it quite well?