keith5700

A few questions for MantaV8. Starting to sort the job out in my head now. The drivers side exhaust manifold looks like it's going to be a bit tight as the steering shaft is in the way. Did you use the standard type shortie headers, or make the manifold up from scratch? Notice you've got a bonnet bulge, did you need that for clearance on the filter? What's the clearance like between the clutch master cyl and the back of the rocker cover? Can't see from your pics how close it all is back there, but from my rough measuring it looks like the rocker cover and the cylinder are going to touch. Thanks for now.

Don't know what they fit, am new to the Jap scene. Will ask them, thanks. Bought the wilwoods for my Granada, then made new brackets and disc bells to fit the Z. Prices will be on Rally Design sit but from distant memory the calipers were about £460 a pair, and discs and bells about £160. Don't know if they do the right bells and brackets off the shelf for a Z tho.

just fitted Wilwood 4 pots and 310 x 32 discs. Blimey! nearly put my head thro the windscreen 1st time out. Anyway, the brakes that came off were the alloy 4 pots off a 94 n/a. Are they worth selling or are they worthless?

Ok, thanks.

Need an uprated rad, and after searching have decided on the Koyo. However, looking at a pic of it on zcentre's site, it looks roughly square, but the one in my car is very rectangular, about 700 x 400. Mines a '94 n/a. Are the series 1 and 2 rads different sizes? or does the Koyo rad fit in the same gap ok?

Fair point. Must admit they do look amazing.

Yeah, but imagine them after a couple of our salt spray winters.

Like these?

They didn't fit. Were pretty close tho'. Somebody somewhere must supply just the joint.

There's 2 seperate things going on here. One is that reducing unsprung weight is good as it allows the tyre to stay in contact with the road better over bumps etc. The other is that taking, say 2kg off a wheel actually has more apparent effect than just the 2kg, as the engine has to accelerate the wheel forwards, and also accelerate it rotationally. I first heard of this when I was designing rotor head components at Westland Helicopters, and decided to prove it for myself. It turns out that, assuming an average type of wheel etc. that saving 2kg on a wheel equates to about a 2.4kg loss from the vehicle. So unfortunately your 8kg loss is the same as losing only about 10kg from the car. Or looking at it another way, the force to accelerate the wheel rotationally is negligible compared to the force to move it forwards.

Yes, but where does the 14/1 bit come in?

What does that mean "in rolling radius works out at 14/1" ?

Hello mate, been looking at your pics but can't see if you have the turbo pedal or the n/a. Trying to work out the room there'll be behind the r/h rocker cover. Oh, and how did you sort out the clutch cylinders, I read that you weren't getting enough travel on the slave? Cheers.

Same as yewcheck except the adaptors were just a couple of alloy plates with holes for original subframe and new seats.[/img]

Nice. Plants will grow better if you can do away with the air bubbler. I had one similar size but ended up more interested in the plants than the fish. Turned out more difficult to grow plants properly than keep the fish in the end. Biggest ballache with a big tank is the water changes, and I ended up making an automatic water changer. Best thing I ever did.

I'm doing this job at the moment. Smithy's sending me a couple of ball joints which we're hoping will fit. Should arrive Mon so will let you know the outcome.

Thanks. It's a bit clearer now. Just need to search for what signal should be present. Jeff says the signal is 5 volts but presumably it must vary a bit in either voltage or frequency to alter the steering weight. Thanks again all. :)

Unfortunately the kph dash is in bits as I'm eventually fitting a complete digital system. Did this in my Granada when I put the chevy in, cos I couldn't get the original gauges to work. Since I did it tho I found it so much better than dials and fingers that I want to do the Z too, when I swap the engine. That's a few months away tho, so would like to understand how the steering electrics work, and hopefully get a bit of feel back to the wheel.

Pretty sure it's got proper UK clocks. The kph instrument panel was chucked in the boot when I bought the car.

While you're there Manta, how did you get your speed sensor working after transplant? Did you take the sensor off the box and point it at something else. Presumably it works similar to the abs sensors?

Ok, good, but the steering is ultra light all the time. It's like driving on ice.

Just been reading a thread saying too light steering may be releted to speedo conversion. Mine's a fresh import fitted with uk clocks and speedo works ok. Will this still have a converter of some sort on it? If so could this give the steering brain duff info so steering thinks car is going a lot slower than it is and increases power assist? Could this also be why autobox can't make up it's mind whether to be in 3rd or overdrive? Done some searches on this but still not figured it out.

Oh and just do a search for Woolies, they supply everything and it's all next day delivery

Just done the back end on my recently aquired Z cos I couldn't believe how noisy and rickety it was. Used 5 off bitumen pads which weighed 1kg total and about 2 sq metres of bituminised felt which is about 3 kg. If you do it make sure to stick some pads and felt inside the rear wing panels as they're really tinny and boomy. Can't believe the difference it makes overall. Can't wait to do the front.

h*w a***t t****g it w*****t a*l t*e m****e l*****s