CarlZ

My first Z was an imported jap auto, which came to an unfortunate end in the hands of the thieving b*****ds that stole it. Now am a proud owner of a UK manual TT, IMO the auto isnt a patch on the manual, wished i'd held out for a manual in the first place. Imported cars seem to come with better interier extras than the UK models but dont have the breaking ability or the under body sealent the UK models have and i think the head lights are worse on the japs (neather models that good though) also many parts are different and more expensive on the japs and a lot of insurence companies wack premiums up on them too but thats my opinion forgive me if im wrong. UK manual TT for me anyday All great cars in their own right pro's n cons with em all. I think if you went N/A route you will wish you went TT if you went Auto you will wish you went manual, at the end of the day the choice is yours go for what you think you will want in the long run its all about future planning

Sorry guys to bring subject up again, so have a drink or 3 on me :duffer: cheers! Hopefully now your all sutably intoxicated -ish i can hit you with my question: Do you think removing the cats and replacing them with down pipes with mini silencers as like the ones luke sells will reduce or illiminate turbo seals blowing, and will these still give a signifcant increase in power? Going for this option seems the most viable to me as i want to de-cat but am unsure as to totally de-cat due to the on going split decissions. Car is '91 J reg UK manual TT Turbos are stock second hand units so dont know true history of them but seem strong. cheers. carl

There is an oil seal on the box inside the bell housing where the torque converter goes into the box the end of the converter locks into the gearbox pump. You say the engine has been out recently? Its possible that the torque converter was not unbolted from the flexi plate (fly wheel in a manual) when the engine was pulled, not unbolting the converter will result in it being pulled out with the engine, if this has happened the converter would have to be put back prior to engine being put back other wise damage to the pump may occure if its not located in the pump properly, its possible the shaft of the converter may have nipped the seal and thats why it could be leaking? Not saying this is what happened but possible. To check if transmission fluid is leaking from this seal, remove the starter you should be able to get your fingers behind the flexi plate and feel the converter and with bit of luck if any fluid is on it. If it is this seal or rear crank seal box will have to come out but dont forget to unbolt converter from flexi plate first by undoing the bolts holding it on through the starter hole turn the engine by hand untill each bolt can be seen. Good luck

ok point taken lol not such a good idea then?

i am a subscribing member

Has Anyone seen the front mounted intercooler kit £599 advertised on Ebay by http://www.altezzasportsandprestige.com/Parts.htm item number 120002441850 This is what he says on his auction: If you are interested... LET ME KNOW ASAP as it is very important i can gauge the interest... as if there is enough interest i can lower the price even more!!!! Could be a group buy if the guy is interested in doing one? What do you think quality of this item would be like and advantages it will give?

just lost mine along M25 fed up with it falling down so ripped it off completly think car runs better without it now, good ridence to the poxy thing

Quick question on Intercoolers, which has proberbly been asked a thousand times. Car is basically stock apart from Stillen induction kit & Vailside evolution exhaust, is it worth up grading the intercoolers at this point? Bigger injectors also planned for the near future too. Should i wait to get the injectors first or will better intercoolers be any benifit now before the injectors, & which intercoolers do you recommend, have read up on intercoolers and it apperes too big an intercooler(s) can have a negative effect, i understand Greedy intercoolers are good? Many thanks carl

Ok thanks very much, much appreciated

went to maplins to get 100 ohm resisters to dim the LED lights guy asked me for what wattage do i want resisters for? Arrr problem, i dont know i said so came out empty handed. Anyone have an idea of the wattage of the LED's? Thanks carl

Buy a UK manual car if you can

Hi does anyone know how far out the speedo will read with bigger wheels fitted, i have 18's. Thanks carl

So by that am i right to think higher octain fuel will be ok in a UK TT without having to remap the engine? carl

Welcome to our world. I think if you bought a N/A you would soon get bored with it and want a bit more out of the car and will eventually want to go TT as many of the posts on here are about converting N/A to TT or tuning up the N/A its good advise from Z32king i agree with him. TT is the way to go in the end, go and view a N/A and TT that are for sale test drive them both and compare the two for power. At the end of the day its your choice but you should think ahead and decide what you want out of the car in the future if its power you want the TT is the way to go the sky's the limit with em. But what ever you decide its good to see someone from the BMW friternaty has seen the light and deffected to the right side. Good luck with your choice

y do they bother? maybe its to componsate for their tiny willys? Do they think the farty exhaust noise scares us? We should all have a sticker on the back of our cars saying "dont bother come back with some compertition" Any ideas on a sticker? "No fear" stickers will not be considered lol thats for the plebs. I think what ever we do the parasites are here to stay maybe the god of Z gave them to us for a little fun they give us a chance to blow some cobwebs out anyway

yer thanks tony had idea that might be the answer, thanks again

He means the flywheel behind the engine that the clutch bolts and engauges to, the ring gear is a toothed ring around the outside of the flywheel, the starter motor has a toothed end to it which engauges with the ring gear and turns the fly wheel which turns the engine to start it when you turn the ignition key. Its the toothed end of the starter motor not enguaging with the ring gear properly and not spining the flywheel hence no turning of the engine so no start. or the bendix of the starter (toothed end) is not extending out to engauge the flywheel and is just spinning in its retracted position also no turning of the flywheel so no start. Try hitting starter with a hammer this sometimes free's it up. good luck carl

i did see some for sale on ebay

piesoup did you read my last reply to you on your other posting? that was the price i was quoted by 2 seperate Z worhshops. Pulling the engine out is a far better option apart from all the pipe work and sensers plus pulling out your engine will more than likely reveal your oil leak the route of your problem, no real cheap way around it unless you can get second hand tubs and do the job yourself, to try doing it with engine in you will still have to strip half the engine down brake servo will have to come off and i think steering linkage to thats before you struggle getting tubs off. carl

Thanks to dpm for advice where would i get 100ohm resisters can i get them from car accessory shop or specialist electrical shop?

wrong crank shaft for the ecu. ecu isnt reading the crank markings i presume you have the same crank shaft as when the car was an auto? I had this problem with a vauxhall carlton, i got an engine out of a cavalier same engine apart from being transverse in the cavalier or so i thought, put it in the carlton and it wouldnt start or fire, took engine out after hours of changing timing a tooth at a time, changed the crank to the carltons crank and it started straight away. Bet thats your problem, the markings may look the same but could be in slightly different position so as far as the ecu is concerend it thinks the timing is out. Nissan may be able to tell you if the cranks are different. carl

Also check out 300zx.org.uk if you havnt already very usefull

To give you an idea of cost i took my car to 2 different workshops that have experience in these cars both quated me more or less the same price (£2,000-£3,000) to replace the turbo's (both) as its false economy to replace just the 1 and this price was not for new turbos either but to have mine reconditiond as long as the outer casings hadnt cracked, £400-£600 to just get the turbos recond. rest was labour, taking engine out and other bits n bobs (engine will have to come out to replace turbo's, much easier as more or less impossible otherwise) I was lucky i got a pair of good turbo's £150 on ebay (ah ebay what would we do without it) while engine was out took advantage of it put new clutch and timing belt on, timing belt another story kit dont come with all the wheels and are £100 odd quid each alone so left em on as they seemed fine. Whole lot in the end gave me a bill of £1,400 including labour for mechanic to do the work, only wish i had had the time to do the job myself then money i would of saved could of gone towards bigger turbos, so there you go mate thats what you got to look forward to unfortunatly :( best of luck carl

If your not sure you can always take off the lower air pipe at the turbos and spin the fan to see if they spin freely with minimum amount of play and there is no rubbing or grating sounds, they should spin quite freely and smoothly a tiny bit of play is ok as this is taken up with the oil, Its a bit of a pig of a job especially driver side but at least it might help to give you piece of mind. Do you let the engine run for a minute or two before switching it off? this gives the turbo's bearings a chance to cool down other wise they cook in the hot oil and can tarnish which is bad news. Good luck carl

I had a similer sound to what you described when i boosted up, had puff of blue smoke too, then i lost all boost aventually dont wish to worry you but i ended up with a siezed turbo on the driver side, it maybe that you have an oil leak on the oil surply to the turbo and its running a bit dry, dont wish to worry you but get it checked out asap mate. Cool dials i want em, where can i get em? carl