TonyC

One of the best Tyres i have had on a car,these i put on my last Z,loved them,read the feed back lower down too. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Kumho&tireModel=ECSTA+MX Tony :)

And he went on to race again,very very lucky. http://blog.cardomain.com/blog/2006/10/great_balls_of_.html Tony

Not wanting to cause any undue trouble(if ya get my drift)but correct me if i am wrong,this is a South Central Meet ,so,going back to JAE AGM i recall it being stated that there are club funds available,and anyone looking to have/arrange say this kinda thing(or whatever) could apply for funds,it all helps,no matter what is given,i wonder sometimes too as to wether the fact that we as a club do not have more things on the agenda,away from things like the Jap shows,JAE etc etc.Trackdays,Karting,Absailing,white water rapids :D you get me drift ;) this would surley enable peeps to meet more members,get to know people better,a form of bonding if ya like :D Lets say all i had to pay for was the fuel,bet ya loads more would be thinking,Not bad idea,maybe worth it,especialy with the Club chipping in. Just an idea,Tony :cool:

Coming off a motorway slip road,indicated,big lorry just in front,me not to close,gradual turning to go up slip road,lorry going ahead up motorway,ooooohhhhh fook,all traffic backing down dual slip road had stopped,to late i thought,but ABS stops me within 6 inches i kid you not,thank fook for ABS,and to be honest,when i have belted round race tracks i prefer the abs on,can certainly take the p*** with late braking :D Tony

This sounds interesting,if and only if i still have the Z i may tag along,its a straight run from here to southampton,Red Funnel were great earlier this summer(to east Cowes) and the island is fantastic(yes a tad quiet in some areas,we were in Bonchurch,bit too quiet maybe,i first went in 1970 but i like that)one road that would be great to blast down is the Ventnor to Alum Bay road,some fantastic views,long open roads(even in July) with nice sweepin bends :cool: then blast from Freshwater to Carisbroke. Will be going back next summer,St Lawrence. Tony

Good luck with the new motor Peach buddy,been great to know you,hopefully will see you in the future,you have been a great bastion for the Z and the club over the years,glad i got to talk to you last saturday at JapFest,will miss you mate, and others that seem to be off :(. I understand where your coming from! Tony :cool:

All three UJs i have changed only had about 5mm play in them when taken off,but this translates into far more play by the time it gets to steering wheel,and checking back all mine came off cars between 60k-70k so it seems fairly common around this mileage. Tony

Would says its lower uj,have changed mine recently,done 3 in total,very common fault,not cheap tho,think about £90,Mike at MJP can get you one.It only takes 10 mins to do,just remember to make sure stearing wheel does not move when you take it off,especialy if you have Hicas. Tony :)

Personaly i would go to Thor,they have all the pass codes for the Greddy and the SAFC II,and Pete is methodical ie he takes his time but gets it spot on. Up to you of course. Tony

Oh,one more thing,the boost has high and low settings,have you tried it on the higher one,think that is set at 14 tho could be wrong.Tell ya what dont touch it :) Just wait till you go to Thor(patience now :D )

As you can see on dyno charts,330.8bhp,cant understand where your losing power top end,but like as said fueling could be out for some reason causing you to have a loss there,best thing,go to Thor,get them to set it has it was when i sold it,think you will find something amiss,that Z should be fooking flying with 330 at hubs,and well within engines capabilities with this set up. Keep us informed Tony :) http://300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=45880

Yep,same for me a few months back :rolleyes: allso had same probs more or less when another time another Z the battery decided to die,plenty volts,no amps :rolleyes: Tony

Sometimes you see a Z and think"i dont think so" this is one of them times :D

Well friends it time for me to move on.After 5 years and 6 Zs things have changed for me,its been a pleasure to of been involved with this club, and over the years to of meet some great people,and real mates that have gone out of there way to help. Theres been highs and lows and then highs of Z ownership.Its been an experience I would not of missed,to say its kept me busy and on me toes would be an understatement!.Lately though I feel that the spark for me has died somewhat,reasons include my age,the Z scene in general,Donna’s illness earlier in the year,and I must admit I have slowed down.Since owning again my present Z that I first had in 2002 I have only done 700 miles,most of the time its washed and polished sitting in the garage with a cover over it! Its not meant for that,that’s for sure.I will not be getting another,I was up for getting a GTR for my 50th birthday but to be honest if the buzz or interest stays away then I doubt if I will bother.At this time I am looking for a Audi A8.I will pop back now and again and still pop over to the Pod,but with a combination of things its time to call it a day,so that’s it,the Z is up for sale,hope who ever gets it will have great pleasure and excitement that I have had owning these cars over last few years.Tony :( Details here http://300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=81021

What a waste :hurl:

Well it depends allso on what amount has been taken off,theres a case for too much causing more larger counter weights neede to be added,material can allso be taken off in other areas of the crank but again theres a relibility issue.When i bought it (some time back now)i had no reason to doubt him,as why bother saying it was done if it was not,would be no gain from him,but then it depends how much was removed when edging it,best thing to do is to get a pic or an old crank off some one to compare,as to the bigger picture of things,knife edging the crank may make it cut through oil better causing slight less drag/windage/oil splash,but,does not mean its as reliable compared to stock crank.To be honest unless i was running huge power and looking for very quick 0-60 its not worth doing,and as by the time you try getting every ounce of power out of it it would prob break sooner or later,defo sooner than stock. Tony

Well i have had these for about a month,no probs,was a bit dubious to start with but for £50 worth a gamble,and they are 4ply(some Samco etc are only 3ply)so far so good :cool: Few pics :D

Nice one Vinz,see ya there mate :cool:

:cool: Have got a 1/24 black SWB die cast as above from years back when i first had the swb i have,99 spec bumper and rear spoiler,stock wheels,good detail,boot /bonnet/doors/open,steering turns.Sad but true :rofl: Oh,and one unfinished swb jap spec model thats still after 5 years part built,with BBS alloys :cool:

It may be a leak somewhere,try all pipes from balance bar area,hard pipes,knackerd recircs/pipes,if you have aftermarket gauge sometimes the small pipe to rear can get bent over especialy if you have routed it through bulk head etc,just take time out to try check all known vac lines/pipes,but could allso be stock gauge if you using that only, giving crap reading(mine was at +14 even in saftey) Tony :)

Ok chaps,all working,very nice gauge when lit up,went for a blast,about half an hour,plenty of WOT and temp not goes above 70c :dance: , happy that i no longer have to keep looking at the crap OEM gauge just in case it darts to top without warning :D Tony :cool:

Cheers lads, will do it tommoro and let you know. :cool:

Cheers mare,but any idea why it would give out 5v,is this to somehow send a signal as in a loop to sender?. Tony

Ok,i have fitted a Autometer temp gauge (one with black screen, that then all lights up when ign on)the sender has 2 wires one black(sheathed)one white(sheathed)wired all in and left black till last(intructions a tad vague but i assumed white wire went to S(sender)on gauge)black to earth,so with ign on i ran a test on black wire before fixing to body,it showed 4 to 5v through it :confused: ,so without it connected and engine running the gauge will not move up(gauge does light up and needle moves to say start point when power on)am bit worried to actualy connect the black wire to car body,anyone else fitted a sender with two wires from it or can shed some light on this,cheers,Tony :) ps,sorry if it seems question a tad muddled ,bloody knackerd.

A little tip that works is to drill out the curved adjuster bar where the main adjusting nut/bolt stops by around 1/4inch,(more if you wish)this will give you plenty to adjust up the belt,. Tony :)