Toomanyzeds

I've seen them leak from even without being able to rotate it, if you can rotate it then you will definitely need to repair or replace it.

So the gear is at fault.. Your options are: Have it welded with a very quick and low heat tig weld so it doesent ruin the rubber o ring inside. I can do this for a small fee if you post it to me. Buy a good used gear Drop big money on BDE cam gears that fixes the issue by design by putting a dowel pin between the 2 parts that come loose and rotate.. I've got a good used vtc gear i'd be happy to sell for £50 + your broken gear.

Its likely you just need to tighten/reposition some clamps, there's an in and out straight from the filter to the rail & from the rail back to the tank, with a damper and fpr in between.. it can look more complicated due to the bent metal piping nissan added but its essentially very simple and easy to trace. Get it somewhere dry and put cardboard under to see where it drips. PTUs are the same for NA & TT if your still on the series 1 then its advisable to replace it, they will regularly fail. Its possible for PTUs to work and be out of specification giving a weak spark, they're complicated to test so i won't get too technical on this post. You need a "converter harness" to fit the replacement series 2 PTU.. I have nissan converter harnesses new in box i can sell for £20 but you'd have to buy the PTU separately. Ofcourse new injectors are not needed if its just an o ring failed. Test them. 1) Check the OHM reading of the injectors with a multi meter.. They should read 12, anything over 14 needs replacing. 2) Put the fuel lines back on the rail with the plenum off and the rail removed and turned upside down so it sprays into the air and doesent further flood your engine.. Remove the CAS and turn it by hand to visually see if the spray pattern is good, you want the pattern to be the same for all 6 it will be obvious if any of them have a problem. I have a tonne of brand new seal kits (top and bottom o ring + lower rail isolator) i can sell cheaper than you'd get anywhere else (£20 + postage!) You might also want to change some of the lower pintle caps whilst the rail is off if any of them are cracked or damage.. I have brand new pintle caps i can sell for £5 each.

Just watched this video of Paddy Mcguinness in the passenger seat after seeing your post https://www.hamhigh.co.uk/things-to-do/national/23088304.top-gears-paddy-mcguinness-wanted-a-little-cry-drifting-thailand/ "You can't drift a 300 it's too heavy" ..is usually the response i get when telling people the 300 is a brilliant drift car when setup correctly..No denying it now!! Doesen't sound like that Z is VG powered though..

Remove them & keep the pump just cap it off! they look horrible & add no real function or value to the car. That way they are easily refitted if you get a serious buyer interested that is a die hard & upset that is isn't 100% stock. If i was buyng a Z and noticed they had been removed then atleast i'd know that some work has been done & could question them about what work has been done. I have removed them on numerous cars and never missed them, nor had an MOT failure because they were removed

From what youv'e described it sounds to me like you have fuel leak & a problem with your fuel delivery and/or spark system. IF you manage to get it started DO NOT drive it without changing the oil as fuel will have leaked down through the piston rings & diluted your oil putting your bearings & entire oil syste at risk of metal to metal contact! You either have a leak from the fuel rail or a weak spark, aswell as an external fuel leak all very easy to diagnose if you know how.. Again, DO NOT run your car after filling the crank case with fuel or risk engine damage! The first things i would investigate if i had your issue would be your injector o rings & PTU..which could cause a weak or no spark.. Leaking injectors are unlikely to throw a code iv'e had it happen more times than i care to recount i have never seen a code on conzult!. Get your fuel system holding pressure & go from there. I am locatedin Surrey & know the 300s like the back of my hand i'd be happy to help if you can get it down here and you can't fix it yourself.

Bypass the FPCU to fix it temporarily by splicing half a foot of wire into the white wire of the FPCU plug and grounding it against a door sill screw. If you upgrade the pump preferably to a silent running one like a deatschwerks DW300 or similar along with a bigger fuel regulator (aeromotive or tomei type L) you can make it a permanent mod and never have to worry about it failing again

Find out for sure where the leak is coming from. I assume you have got the belt covers off to see it running? If it's landing just on the alternator and not going everywhere take a closer look at your oil pump area.. It could be: 1.the oil pump bolts loose at the front. 2.someone pryed on the oil pump when removing the crank pulley & it has a hairline crack. 3. damage/improper installation to any of the cam or crank seals. 4. intake cam gear lip out of round (possibly damaged if you've had them off and reinstalled them). 5.the VTC seals on the front of the gear could be leaking. 6. VTC gear itself could be leaking (At the back!) You can stick a mirror behind it and see if there is oil flinging out the back of the gear to see if its the gear itself without removing it. You can remove the gear and see if backplate rotates & if it does the gear is definitely shot. No other places it could be leaking & all easily fixable in a few hours

Classic.. Six & Seven, easily confused at 5am after a looong night underneath a zed ? I have zeds for sale that are not listed on ebay or anywhere else if you are interested send me a PM. they need for nothing & are ready to be enjoyed

I have close to seven figures (GBP) invested in 300ZX's, only a small portion of that has been spent on the actual purchase of the cars themselves and my advice to you would be to listen to Andrew G's advice.

I have one here you can have for a tenner delivered if you still need one

If i were you I'd spend the money you would pay a mechanic with on a cheap compression tester and do that first so you know the overall health of your engine. .that way you're not giving someone a chance to take you for a ride doing work you don't need. A compression test is fairly easy to do even if you have no experience working on cars. Takes 30-60 mins

Hi howl, I have three 300ZX for sale all that are not currently listed on ebay or gumtree. Your welcome to test drive them with no obligation to buy aslong as you take out the proper insurance. One is black. I'm not looking for silly money but i do want to atleast recoup my investment on parts. All 3 are LWB Twin turbo manuals, All 3 have rebuilt engines with Nissan OEM parts and All 3 have every single bushing replaced and a fresh 12 months MOT, ready to drive without doing any work. Im located in Surrey if you would like to come and take a look. PM me for my phone number if your interested. Cheers

Hi Sean, I dont advertise for Z32 work as im a marine engineer by trade. I have a garage in Horley, Surrey & know the Z32/VG30 platform like the back of my hand. If you're wondering about my experience.. I have 4 of my own running Z32s that all started out as non runner projects with blown engines, one of which i believe is now the most powerful zed in the UK. I've recently built 2 engines for people ive met through buying / selling parts and id be happy to help you out aswell if im not too far away from yourself. I can do anything you may need but i dont get involved in bodywork. PM me if you'd like my phone number. Cheers

Hi guys. i probably should have joined this forum many years ago.. Ive been lurking for around 10 years. I own 6 Z32 cars (2 are parts cars), and have a truly insane amount of spares that i have accumulated whilst modifying my car over the past ten years. Iv'e finally decided its way too much as i can only drive one at a time and will be selling all but my two best highly modifed cars that i have the space to store inside and i have way more spares than ill ever need or use, so iv'e decided to give them away free to anyone who needs them. If anyone needs any spare parts for their zeds just let me know what your after and you can have it for the price of the postage, or come and collect free. Im located in surrey. I have a double garage with shelves completely stacked to the brim with every part you could imagine & seeing the prices that people are listing spares for these days iv'e no doubt if the parts were sold individually they would be tens of thousands but i have no interest in charging extortionate prices for 30 year old car parts, nor do i have the time to list all this stuff on ebay, so hopefully i can help out some fellow zed owners. I have two parts cars that are ready to go, i filled up one of them today to the brim with spares if anyone would like one then ill take £500 each collected. I will include some links to pictures so you can see what you would be paying for! The two parts cars i have are chassis that iv'e crash damaged so they will need to be trailed away. One has the front subframe removed i have plenty of performance parts too that are brand new and unused, and 4 functioning zeds (all twin turbo manuals) coming up for sale if anyone is in the market for a new zed. I have one listed on ebay now here.. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255213594345 https://ibb.co/7Kq6n4Q https://ibb.co/qyTTyGd https://ibb.co/ZgPPtGk https://ibb.co/3z8WMsr https://ibb.co/yykvz00 https://ibb.co/zGnH8Qp https://ibb.co/Y3GC6V4 https://ibb.co/xqS8P6f https://ibb.co/rZZFWj8 https://ibb.co/TgS3smn https://ibb.co/VjCv2L3