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I have to honestly say you are the first person I have heard say that! Even guys on the skyline forum notice no difference upgrading to ap six pots from their normal R33 brakes, it is only under track conditions they notice a difference. Maybe there something not working 100% on them :confused:

Mariella Frostrup pphhwwwoorrrrr (sid james stylee)

Hope he enjoyed it, what about the car :x: :D I like the rexs but the only thing I don't like is the engines made of glass and the probably single figure fuel economy :(

The FSe power boost valve is just an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and if you have uprated turbo/injectors etc and are going for a custom map then they could be worth considering! But if you are going for moderate upgrades then get your fuel pressure checked and if it is working within spec fine, no need for this! Just for your info the Power boost valve works as a 1:1 regulator on Turbo cars and a rising rate on NA cars.

Just for fun :) It has to be a car that you would of bought if god forbid the Z32 was never produced and keep it real world stuff guys no Murcielargos :D I must admit I like the RX7!!!!

From saying you had the turbos spining in your hands, I presume you had the engine out :) It is common for the stock oil feed pipes to become blocked and or kinked when replacing the turbos, another thing to consider?

Yes mate, but I have an aftermarket boost controller, try disconnecting them and see what happens it could be the dreaded zed faulty connections again :( Are you sure both turbos are still spinning?

You are now added, times vary but give us a shout whenever you see me :)

Good to have ya back mate :D

Booody el, looks who's turned up :D Next thing Craig might put a post up, and god forbid Warren and Senna may have something to say :headvswal

Hi and welcome, Sounds like you have a sensible plan, I would do the brakes much sooner, the GTR R33 set up is excellent and it changes your confidence in the car when you can stop properly :)

Its hinge and bracket :D I'll get me coat :(

I have an exhaust gas analyser in West London will do a check for nowt.

Unscrew the rubber bonnet supports and grease the bonnet hinge :)

Yeah and have a spare set of pistons to hand for when they run lean :smash:

Oil Pressure sender unit on these cars is a known fault, ask Mike feeney for a price and not very expensive to fit, that would be my first and cheapest port of call.

Try checking your PTU connections and maybe put on your old one that worked fine, just in case it is a faulty new one! Are you saying you took off your clifford alarm or that you just got one installed, maybe check your connections there?

Cheers James :o

Alex why don't you pop over to Putney, I do free consult checks :)

Yes thats correct, the rad cap is a two way valve, it blows out water at a certain pressure and sucks it back in when the coolant creates a vacuum when cold.

:dance: :dance: :dance:

Sorry mate we will have to agree to disagree! The heater matrix is one of the first items to suffer from an air block, which is why they say have your heater on running full blast and raise your zed front end up high when refilling your zed coolant, If there is a leak/low levels in the system there is a fair chance it is gonna put air into the heater matrix as the next dump point is the rad. Overheating is not necessarily the same as having low coolant levels, which is why they advocate running your heater on full blast, as it gives you an extra point for heat to escape.

Could also be this as well, it is usually accompanied by an acrid smell inside the car, but just for info on people using search in the future, no heat from the matrix is one of the first signs of low coolant levels.

That comment wasn't directed at you greg just trying to help Joe with his problem! A head gasket failure on a 300 can also hardly be visible in the normal way, i.e. mayonaisse in the rad or oil filler cap, if you leave the rad cap off and let the engine warm up a fine stream of bubbles can be seen coming up from the radiator opening, as fine as the bubbles on the side of a glass of lemonade or beer! Another way of testing HG failure and cheaper solution is to buy a head gasket tester kit, which tests for combustion fumes coming from the radiator opening, costs about 25ish pounds sterling.

Try to refill the radiator from the rad cap and are you sure you don't have an air block in the system, have you taken out the radiator and checked that it isn't blocked, when you did the flush? The head gasket could be the culprit but a compression test isn't a reliable way of testing for it, ask a local garage if they have an ultraviolet leak detector, they add an ultraviolet dye to the coolant, put a pair of UV specs on switch on an ultraviolet light and see if it is coming from the exhaust if it isn't they then look at the engine bay. Lastly buy a new rad cap from Nissan they are too cheap and too important not to replace on a regular basis!