leigh l

I their any procedure I need to follow when disconecting the battery, or is it a simple case of disconecting it and refitting?

Cheers mate, might just get myself that kit.

No its not the alarm sounder, I will disconect the battery later and see if that stops it, thanks for the advice, I will certainly do what u suggested to get a tight fit. Thanks

Went to start the car today, ignition lights on, turned the key and nothing, all the lights went out, tried to restart, but the lights diddnt light up and had no power at all. I came back to it a few hours later, opened the door and the alarm went off, I couldnt turn it off so I opened the bonnet and touched the negative wire going to the battery very slightly and the alarm stopped and the car started straight away, the negative has been tightened as tight as it will go, but it seems that the terminal on the battery is too small causing a bad connection, ever since this has happened, im getting a high pitched buzzing even when the ignition is off, I cant pinpoint where it is comming from but it seems to be near the drivers side wing inside the car, should I disconect the battery completely and leave for a while, could this be the cause of the rough idling now and again?

I think so as I have had a brand new loom fitted when I had the engine build, im thinking its either the ptu, tps or maf as the idle bounces around a bit on idle, am I right in thinking this?

It never goes above 3000rpm untill the engine is at normal working tempature, I usually only go to 2500rpm untill then, maybe I exaggerated when I said massive burst of acceleration, one minuite I will be driving at 2500 rpm in 2nd then it will feel like the turbos are kicking in, this only happens when cold.

When the car is cold, it tends to hold back a bit and all of a sudden I get a massive burst of acceleration, could this be because of the bigger tubs or be part of my idling problem? maf, tps, ptu, I have mesh grills in my centre panel, could water be getting in to the maf and causing dampness?

No mate, just the ecu test, I have a read up on how to test them using just the ecu, I will check the weekend, could their be another cause?

Starting to get annoying now, I have done an ecu diagnistic test with no error codes, cleaned the throttle bodies and had a new wiring loom fitted, checked and cleaned the air flow metre connections, could I need a new maf or just adjust the tps or could it be 02 sensors, could a slight vacume leak be the cause? What is the most likly culprut.

I know what you mean, mines cost nearly £5000 in less than a year.

911 = Very common and dear on parts and labour.

The only thing that puts me off the cerb is that its not japanese, but if I wanted a change, I would seriously consider it.

Would love a noble, only two seater though.

Tvr cerbera is my next car if I ever get board of the z ( very doubtful ) I have been looking up some facts and found that the cerbera is astonishly quick, especially the 4.5, 450bhp i think 0-60 in 3.9 and a top speed of 190mph, no turbos, just raw power, how would this compare to a modded z with the same power? I suppose mpg would be about the same, dont no about reliability though, TVR do have issues.

Cant see any yellow cap, can you give me a description on where it is in more detail? Thank you

Is their anyone down south west wales area who can hook me up on conzult?

Thanks for that, mine is a manual. how do you adjust? Thanks

My problem is that the engine runs at just over 1000rpm which is to high, when I press the clutch pedal in, the revs increase to 1500rpm then bounce around a little then creeps back down to just over 1000rpm and sometimes when I press the accelerator slightly the revs drop, this happens more when it is cold and damp, any suggestions?

Cheers, I dont know if they are in good nick or not, but I have put some gasket sealant around it to, just been outside now, repairing it, I can still hear a slight hiss, but I dont think its comming from the balance bar, it sounds like its comming from the pipes at the back of the engine, I have got the revs at a steady just under 1000rpm at idle now. Is it normal for the revs to drop when putting your foot down slightly when the car is cold?

You are not misunderstanding the thread, the bracket was underneath before I took it off, that is probably why it had uneven idling, I will take it back off and redo it. Thank you for the advice, much appreciated.

Ok, I have removed the balance bar and and squirted some gasket sealant over the o rings and around the surface, re fitted the balance bar and can still hear a slight hiss. On the passenger side there is a wire holding bracket which gets screwed down with the bar, this gives it an uneven surface, should I remove this bracket and retry sealing it?

I need a throttle bodie gasket plus two gaskets for the balance bar, is it possible to buy some gasket paper and make my own?

Just cleaning as far as I could reach, got hold of some wire and managed to push it to the balance bar opening.

Thanks for the advice, will sort it out next week, will it be ok to drive or should I wait till I get the air leak sorted?

Thanks mate, have you got a link on how to remove the TB to be able to fit the gasket as the gasket has split? Thanks