olliezx

I need adjustable arms :cry: why havent you told me Paul.

There are quite a few spectator deaths in there by the looks of it. Where some people stand is bloody stupid.

I say! :nana2:

Those are the right plugs to disconnect.

Wrong! If you have chosen your tyres properly the rolling radius will be exactly the same. So the edge of the tyres is the same distance before and after. 19" on 30R/35F profile will have the same radius as stock. The only thing that will affect it is if the overall weight (less tyres/more alloy) changes. Which it wont very much. As for tyre width, try to get 235 on the front, which ideally is 8.5 rim. The back is up to you and your spacers.

Remove the hazard switch. On the plug connect pins 1 and 2 together. This will eliminate the hazard switch as the problem so you can drive it ;)

its sunny, but i've got nowhere to drive, might just go for a long cruise around.

Can you PM me his number too? Cheers. Group Buy anyone? :rofl: (no seriously!)

?

Yeah I noticed a while back ;) Was just thrown by the wheels.

Have you got another red zed in your sig? :cool: Looks familiar! ;)

So that blue wire loop is standard? Thats a relief, I always thought someone had bodged it.

I'm up for this one. What parts are you on about?

Hey jon, How are you doing? About time I came round again with the zed and had another look at yours.

Firstly get it handling spot on, this could save your life, and will make a hell of a difference!! - Rebuild your rear subframe - Rebush all your arms - New Shocks - New Springs - New braided brake lines - Uprated Anti-Roll bars - 3 pairs of adjustable suspension arms - New Tyres - Get it all laser aligned Then sort out the personal things, that make a difference to you the driver. - New interior - this is where you are most of the time - 99 spec components - rear lights/front bumper - HID headlights Then use what you have left to have a play with the engine: - Full timing belt change and service - Hardpipes - Induction Filter - New exhaust - Lightened pulleys - Boost Controller

Ideally you'd want to set aside a few days to work on it, as getting the subframe bushes out is extremely annoying and time consuming! And you dont want to be paying for ramp time if they are ba***rds and take ages. I would have said having ramps for this wasnt a huge improvement, can be done on the floor.

Erm.......got a bit confused there Mark! :) 2+0 2+2 = yes N.A. T.T. = no

exactly ;)

exactly what I'm doing in the next couple of weeks. There will be plenty of progress pics ut up ;)

LOL do I win the award for the quickest reply ever :rofl:

Loop C - D (if you dont its dangerous) Follow and blank off A. Follow B and remove the tank in the wing.

PRVR Solenoid, it adds more fuel for the first 30secs to aid hot starting I believe. Totally unneccessary.

To get it on your computer: DVD Decrypter or DVD FAB Decrypter for the new stuff To make it smaller: DVD Shrink, maybe with AnyDVD running in the background Burn: Nero You wont ever need anything else. Trust me I have done quite a few ;)

All the coolant bits at the front can be done with engine in. Check all the joints from the twin metal pipes on the front of the engine all the way to the radiator and back again.

edited response after a further look.