i have been told that there is 3 places to bleed the clutch where are the bleed nipples located ??

i know there's one nipple behind the driver side headlight not sure on the other's , am sure someone will be along shortly who knows;)

printed off this thing that shows some 14mm nuts that you adjust so i will give that ago

there are two nipples on the clutch line. one between the wing and HICAS unit just behind the drivers head light, the other is on the slave cylinder. bleeding is done in the same way as you would your brakes. start with the nipple in the engine bay first then keep swapping over after a few pumps each. its a nightmere to do and may well take a while. there is an alternative that can be done by replacing the clutch line all together, using a single braided line from master to slave;)

hi m8 i found the one on the master but i just cannot find the 1 on the wing can you please highlight where it is

 

also what does the hicas do?

you aint got one:rofl::rofl::rofl:

 

just bleed from the cylinder then;)

the HICAS controls the rear wheel steering, not entirly sure how it works as mine never did work so, i locked it off and ripped it out:D

Isnt the clutch bleed further back away from the headlight out of the pic?

 

He may not have one tho if the car is series 2+

i did think that, it could well be out of the pic but, surely he would have picked up on that if it was there

The bleed point that SilverBullet was talking about should be here, but looks like you don't have one on yours.

 

Oh yeah it would be in the pic, next to the hycas pump. Must be a later car, the nipple is on the master cylinder instead.

now i really am confused coz it looks like i have a sderies 2 car but its got a series 1 ptu

 

rekon i have brought a mongrel lol

oh by the way when i was looking for the bleed valve i noticed that the wire from the lambar sensor was not connected to anything and i couldnt see anywhere with in reach of the wire for it to plug into any ideas?

one of the problems i found with these cars is that you dont know the history of them before they come into the country, so anything could have been done to it. you may well have a series one with enough series two bits on it to fool the majority. or it could be a series two where some muppet put series one parts on it. god only knows lol :D

lol i will have to wait untill its 100% and i can come along to a meet where you guys can have a look at it in person

oh by the way when i was looking for the bleed valve i noticed that the wire from the lambar sensor was not connected to anything and i couldnt see anywhere with in reach of the wire for it to plug into any ideas?

 

 

they usually disconnect them when they are faulty, the engine will run but will give symptoms like what you have described. basicly its not reading the exhaust gasses to determine the quantities of burnt fuel and air mix, so as i believe it will dump more fuel in to eliminate detination

ahhh so that could be the reason for all the problems do you no where i can plug it in ?

there should be a plug floating around some where, dont mistake it for your VVT solenoid or waste gate solenoid plugs. there are only three plugs down that side of the engine so just have a route around. this pic shows the VVT solenoid and O2 sensors but not the wastegate solenoid (not used). it should give you a rough idear.....

 

IIRC think series 2ptu was not introduced until the series 3 car. I know it sounds daft, i will try and dig out the thread which explains.

IIRC think series 2ptu was not introduced until the series 3 car. I know it sounds daft, i will try and dig out the thread which explains.

 

 

LMAO now your just going to really confuse the hell out of him!!:rofl:

From Dan at DTA

 

Why do I need a Series 2 PTU?

- As most Zeds in the UK are now approaching 13~17 years of age, various components are prone to failures. The PTU (Power Transistor Unit) is located in a very hot location (on the cam cover) and early models are likely to fail. Symptoms of a failed PTU include an engine that cuts out and won't restart until the engine has cooled down. Another symptom is intermittent misfires on one or more cylinders. When Nissan introduced the Series 3 ZX in 1995 they changed the design of the PTU - it was now more robust and thus less prone to fail.

cheers groover a thread would be good

 

also how can i teat if my rear steer is working?

not sure on that one. it will only work above a certain speed. some people say that it gives the back a slight kick out rather like your going to loose the back end but, mines never work or ive never felt it work

now i really am confused coz it looks like i have a sderies 2 car but its got a series 1 ptu

 

rekon i have brought a mongrel lol

 

Nah you're all good. It's a bit confusing. The seriers 1 PTU was standard on all 300zx's series 1 & 2. Series 3 onwards 300zx's started using the new series 2 PTU.

 

I think we should just call it the old PTU and the new one to avoid confusion :)

 

Ar eyou sure it's the O2 sensor wire. Can you see the wire going to the O2 sensor ?.

 

They are fairly easy to change and not that expensive. Best to grab a conzult first and see ifit is the O2 sensor that is at fault.

The rear steering should be visible stationary, if you turn your steering to full lock either way with the engine running, the rear wheels will turn very slightly in the opposite lock. At speed the rear wheels turn the same way as the front. You will not see a big turning difference as you would with the front wheels, only very slight.

Alternatively get someone to turn the wheel while you have a look at the rear axle.

well i think it is as i followed the wire and it goes on the exhaust i called andy at thetford and he dont have a consultz but he gave me the number of a guy called martin who travels around doing it every herd of him ??