I have had the engine out of the car. installed the usually rods and so on. (z1 engine kit) and gt600r turbos. I have removed the egr, aiv, carbon canister and prvr and plenum/water bypass.

 

The car is reaally rough on idle when we started it for the first time. And I mean realy rough. And there is alot of blue/black smoke comming out of the exhaust. The apexi boost controller showed the injector at 90-92 % at idle?? When I tapped the accelerator it dropped to around 60-70%?? Seemed a bit strange to me??

 

Tried unpluging some of the electric connectors on some of the coils but there is to much noise from axhaust and engine to hear any diffrence.

 

For some reason I can't connect with the computer with the blazt diagnostic program??

 

Any pionters on where to start?

Did you do the engine build yourself or did someone do it for you ?.

 

First thing I would do is contact the people who did it (if it wasn't you).

If they built the engine and put it back in surely they would have tested this and are responsible to put it right.

 

I think we would need a full list of your spec.

Did you change the injectors ?. If so was the chip remapped for them ?.

 

What else are you running ?

Someone build the enigne for me. Me and a friend installed the engine.

 

The upgrades I did was:

Z1 ultimate engine rebuild kit

300 degree fuel rail with new style 555cc injectors

Gt600r turbos

Doolz

Z1 chip for 555cc and doolz

New ecu wire loom

Downpipe/testpipe

EGR/AIV/PRVR delete

plenum pull and water delete

new timing belt

HKS BOV and hardpipes

thing thats about it - engine wise.

 

Any idea why I can't connect to the diagnostic program blatz? Worked fine when I used it on my part car (300zx TT) Is the reading from the boost controller right? 90-92% on the injector??

amazingly that almost sounds totally reversed! 8-10 would be about normal for tickover??

Almost sounds like the ecu is gone crackers, since you cannot connect it up to datascan/conzult

is it possible to try with an old chip from jwt (370cc)?

Well not really as it would run just as bad IMO, 370cc injectors but the chip is mapped for 555 injectors.

Is there any warning lights lit up on the dash ?

Is the electric Aux fan coming on when you run the engine.

If the answer is yes to either one or both the above, then i would suspect the chip from Z1 could be bad.

Have you a freind nearby who also has 555 injectors ? maybe swap ECU's

You should be able to do the manual ECU giagnostics and this should throw up any error codes.

smithy

Tested the injectors now. Showed an ohm at 10,9 ohm on the injector. Is that correct?

Sorry i can't help with that one question as i've never had to test them, but i can help you further if you answer teh 2 questions i asked above about the fan and dash warning lights!

smithy

The aux fan (the black one in front with the oil cooler etc) goes on as soon as I turn the key to ON position. And stays on all the time. I have got a check engine light and the hicas light.

Okay the most plausible fault for me with this is a corrupted chip or socket in the ECU. Did Z1 supply the chip already fitted to the ECU ? or did you fit this yourself ?

If you try this simple test and it comes up code 31, then it is the ECU or chip inside. http://www.ttzd.com/tech/diagnostictech.html

 

If you do get this code, it might be worth unplugging the ECU and re plugging back in again, it's quite easy to re plug incorrectly.

 

If you have warning lights and the eelctric fan on, it is deffo a fault within the sensor circuit or ECU and nothing to do with what type or CC the injectors are, so before you move on to anything else, you need to eliminate the faults that show.

Hope that helps

Smithy

Fitted it myselft. Done it before also. I'll check for codes when I get home later. Thanks

OK. tried to check for code on the ecu. But didn't work. The red light on the ecu was costant red. Swaped ecu. No problem reading codes then. And the aux fan didn't go on. So faulty Z1 chip then.?

Yes and no am afraid mate, but least the problem is in the area i said.

tHE only way to know if the chip is faulty is to use it in another ECU and if the aux fan does not come on then the your ECU is at fault.

I would suggest though, whilst you may have chipped a Zed before, it is very easy to corrupt a chip when fitting, i've done it twice, lol

If you want a gaurantee that the next chip will work, is to send Z1 the ECU for them to fit it as they will test the ECU before and after fitting and before sending back to you.

Or send it one of our experts on the forum here in the UK perhaps ?

I doubt they would send you another chip because they can only gaurantee it if they fit, hope that makes sense bud.

cheers

smithy

Swaped to an original ecu. No aux fan went on then.

Still the same answer as above mate, there is only 1 way to see if your chip is fried or the ECU itself is fried and thats trying the chip in another ECU.

But that is deffo the problem, either the chip or the ECU itself.

smithy

will be deffo the chip is fried if aux fan comes on( excuse the pun lol) best thing is to get a 555 chip off one of the guys on this forum and plug it in making sure you earth ursen when handling the chip etc, i'll have a look if i still have any 555 chips lying around from wen I had chip burner, if i find one u can have it

rich

thanks, but I have ordered a new chip from ash spec. Ecu and chip. let's hope it's going to work this time:)

SYKO - Do you have an extra chip? I haven't been able to get a hold of Ash spec. So do not know when I migh get the chip.. Would be greatly appriciated:)

I don't think the chip Syko was offering was compatible with the doolz, it was a straight forward 555 chip, so you would have to change your intake to a single version.

Ash can be very hard to deal with at times, he was running a special offer on his chips a while ago.

You could try DTA motorsport in Holland or simply send your ECU to Z1 (without a chip inside) and ask them to chip it and test it before shipping back to you.

I really don't think the problem was Z1's chip, i think it was your fitting, it is very very easy to make a mistake doing it and it basically fries it!

smithy

got a single intake too. Have to break in the engine since it's a complete rebuild. Just as long as the chip is for 555cc then I'm fine:)

Hi Trond,

 

SMW1 has a chip for sale that looks like it would be ideal for your setup!

 

http://www2.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=114762

sounds like the same problems i just had. Cars been off road nearly 2 years.

Had odd electrical things happening, the way i sorted it was unbolt the ecu complete and re bolt, test with conzult if ok there than it run ok. Sometimes took a few goes.

I know it sounds odd and also i alarmed alarm on/off.

trond,, sorry for delay been busy and my lappy hard drive fried yesterday , will have a look tonight when i get back home from work,

rich

This sounds quite similar to my current probs, I have the AVC-r showing reverse of what it should for injector duty. 90%+ for idle. I have found other references to this in the US but the US car was not running badly (or at least the guy didn't say it was).

 

I've tried all sorts, different ROM images (programmable ECU), slightly modified SE chip, different injectors (back to 370cc now), different MAF, fuel pressure, ECU reset, new O2 sensors, cleaned every connector I can find etc etc...Really scratching my head.

 

Trond, are your plugs coming out sooty? Mine are well carbon coated. Engine sounds like it's only running on 3 or 4 cylinders most of the time, idle is very poor. Hoping to borrow a complete ECU to rule that out, damage whilst I was last soldering is a possibility.

 

Chris, my car had also been off the road for approx 2 years

 

Cheers

H

I'm wondering if it has anything to do with the egr/aiv/prvr (carbon can?) delete. I deleted the same parts and have almost exactly the same symptoms. Are there any other issues to be taken into account when deleting exhaust gas control stuff? Perhaps a fuse to pull or something still connected which shouldn't be??? Maybe a vacuum line been removed which shouldn't have been or one disconnected which needs reconnecting to the intake?

 

Oh, and one more thing, the 90% injector duty at idle, a friend of mine also made the observation that this was working in reverse, if that is the case wouldn't it be reading 100% with ignition on and engine not running (!?) - mine reads 0%.

Edited July 28, 200817 yr by RobH

>> I'm wondering if it has anything to do with the egr/aiv/prvr (carbon can?) delete.

 

it shouldn't.

The AIV isn't used with most aftermarket chips anyway, so leaving the hoses and hardware in will only increase the risk for vacuum leaks or hoses that connected the wrong way..

 

The PRVR is only used in rare occasions and removing it won't harm anything.

It's important though that you bypass the PRVR the correct way by looping the input straight to the FPR.

 

I almost always remove all aiv/prvr hardware and in some cases I also remove the egr when I (re)install an engine and never had any problems.

In all cases the car ran better without it.

 

For the carbon canister removal, it's important you block off the vacuum hose(s) and leave the fueltank breather hose open.