Giant slayer Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 I have just brought a set of samco silicon top and bottom rad hoses to replace my leaky standard rubber ones. I have an aftermarket water temp gauge that used to have the sensor going into the top hose (hot water out of engine). As the samco top hoses has quite a pronounced bend in the top pipe (presumably for thermal expansion or turbulent mixing purposes) it would have been impossible to fit the adaptor holding the temp sensor into this pipe because it would not fit properly and be leaky. I fitted it to the bottom hoses instead as this has big straight lengths which makes it easy to fit. i realised i would have to figure out the temp drop through the rad (which looks like being between 10-15C at operating temp) and add this to the display temp to get the engine temp. But i am not really satified with this. it takes along time for the rad out temp to reach a stable value (the radiator metal must absorb alot of heat and take along time to reach a stable temp between the air and water sides) when im sure the engine temp will be up to normal operating and it is just not very helpful to know the temperature of water coming out of the radiator.! Is there another place or way i can fit the sensor to the engine out stream. Is there a different adapator or collar i can use that is not too long for the bends in the top hose? I know an oil temp readout would be more useful but the gauge has an oil pressure readout and i have got used to the engine operating characteristic using the the engine water temp readout. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FASTREDZ Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 hmm what type of fitting is the sensor, it would be good if you could take the aly top hose to a fabricator & ask them to put a boss on it for the sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giant slayer Posted June 26, 2007 Author Share Posted June 26, 2007 it is the same as the fellas on here http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=EM&Product_Code=buddy_club_hose_adapter the fabrication route sounds expensive. I was wondering if i could somehow tap a signal from the stock temp sensor that is in the ally hose from the block. I know people say that sensor is rubbish but is it the sensor that is rubbish or the stock guage? will still want and need (for temp to ECU) to keep the stock but is it possible to tap a signal of it in parallel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lymon Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 it's not the sensor that's rubbish..it's the the stock gauge you should be able to use the stock gauge sensor (the right/smaller one, with black plug on top) for some aftermarket gauges. Just try it, it won't do any harm. If it doesn't work with the gauge you're using then there are some other possibilities. I normally just drill an extra hole in top pipe to fit the extra sensor (be careful you don't make the hole too large, as there's no way back) and use some sealant to be sure it won't leak. Otherwise use an adapter, like the one you already have. They actually do fit in the top rubber hose...it's just a bit fiddly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smithy Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 As Lymon says and it's pretty straight forward. On mine i removed the original temp gauge sensor and re threaded the hole, took about 10 mins to do once the pipe was off, welding a new boss on there should you wish take a metal work shop no more than 30 mins once the pipe is off, so either is not expensive at all.. smithy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giant slayer Posted June 27, 2007 Author Share Posted June 27, 2007 has anyone taken the signal from the stock sensor to feed and aftermarket temp gauge and still kept the stock signal to ECU and stock gauge intacted. This would seem the best way to go (if possible) rather than drilling new holes in the top pipe. the connectors for the stock and aftermarket system are not the same so it is not a case of un-pluging on and plugging in the other. I guess it might call for some techy stuff to operate both gauges from one sensor and not effect the signal to either system. The aftermarket temp sensor i have seems to have 4 wires (they might not all be in use) but the stock sensor just the two blade connectors. Does anyone know on here about sensor signal outputs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rainbow ZTT Posted June 27, 2007 Share Posted June 27, 2007 You could do this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giant slayer Posted June 27, 2007 Author Share Posted June 27, 2007 trouble is my new top hose looks like this ie it hasnt got enough straight length to get one of those adaptors in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rainbow ZTT Posted June 27, 2007 Share Posted June 27, 2007 Is it a standard rad? I had to cut a fair bit out to make it fit with my Koyo.As you can see theres not much pipe left. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest andyduff Posted June 27, 2007 Share Posted June 27, 2007 Just drill and tap the upper metal pipe as Eric says :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boldy Posted June 27, 2007 Share Posted June 27, 2007 I just had a boss welded to mine and had it drilled n tapped :bow: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giant slayer Posted August 9, 2007 Author Share Posted August 9, 2007 As Lymon says and it's pretty straight forward. On mine i removed the original temp gauge sensor and re threaded the hole, took about 10 mins to do once the pipe was off, welding a new boss on there should you wish take a metal work shop no more than 30 mins once the pipe is off, so either is not expensive at all.. smithy sorry to bring this boring thread of mine back from the dead....... Was thinking about the drill and tap route or rethreading the original temp gauge sensor hole like smithy has done. for the drill and tap, is the metal pipe thick enough without a boss to hold the sensor without leaking and hold it in tightly? does anyone know the diameter of a SPA temperature sender and its thread so i know what tap is will need? I guess i will only be able to replace the standard temp gauge sender with the SPA one if the SPA one has the same diameter AND thread or a large diameter so i can drill the hole and rethread?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TubZ Posted August 9, 2007 Share Posted August 9, 2007 The picture you say about your top hose being to short is your 'return' is it not? Top hose is the short bit in the box which you could put your adaptor between like Rainbow ZTT has done? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giant slayer Posted August 9, 2007 Author Share Posted August 9, 2007 Ok I have found this which is guess is the manual for SPA dual pressure/temperature gauge. I don’t have this but I guess it must come with the kit……. http://www.spa-design.co.uk/DG50%20manual.doc Ok so it says….. “SENSORS FIXING THREADS:- TEMPERATURE: 1/8 NPT or M16x1.5 all 12.7mm long” Looking up the M16x1.5 thread I found this tapping guide…… Metric Tap Drill Chart Tap size M16x1.5 Major Dia (mm) 16.0 Threads per 1.50 Tap Drill (mm) 14.5 Tap Drill (inch) 37/64 Clearance (mm) 18.0 Clearance (inch) 45/64 Does this mean I need to drill the hole out with a 14.5 bit and a get a M16x1.5 tap to tap the hole? Will anyone be kind enough to send me a M16x1.5 tap in the post and I will send it straight back after I do it along with a crisp fiver! my final question is what is the dia for the hole that is already there for the standard temp gauge sender? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steviecopland Posted August 9, 2007 Share Posted August 9, 2007 I will have a look for a M16 tap at work tomorrow if you like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smithy Posted August 9, 2007 Share Posted August 9, 2007 Yes the gauge should come with the sender mate. You can unscrew your existing sender and try the new one in and you'll know for sure about the size, don't worry about losing water, you'll lose a couple spoon fulls if yer lucky! smithy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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