car has failed MOT on 3 sections on the sills where jacking points are can you buy full sill outer sections?

 

or is it just a case of cutting the rot out and replacing it with new?

 

its also failed on 3 brake pipes that disapper under the rear sub fame. is the sub frame easy to remove? its a uk spec tt by the way

 

Thanks

Si

car has failed MOT on 3 sections on the sills where jacking points are can you buy full sill outer sections?

 

or is it just a case of cutting the rot out and replacing it with new?

 

its also failed on 3 brake pipes that disapper under the rear sub fame. is the sub frame easy to remove? its a uk spec tt by the way

 

Thanks

Si

all to common now on uk Z's

mike at mjp in the traders section can get the sill weld in sections for you.

 

as for the subframe never done one but heard is an arse!

They cant fail the sills for being corroded at the jacking points, only if the corrosion is within 30cm of a safety critical component ie suspension, steering, brake component or a seat belt mounting point etc.

 

So have a look at the areas they have failed and check to see it has been failed correctly, tbh the main area of Z sill weakness appears to be the sill returns which is well within 30cm of the rear suspension mountings. do a forum search on corrosion and you will find lots of recent posts..... the Z sills are quite complex and you will find more corrosion has occurred internally than is first apparent, to repair them properly involves a lot of work, but you could probably get someone to patch them up fairly cheaply however this really isnt ideal because the body structure strength will be greatly reduced and the rust will just pop back through in a year or so, much better to bite the bullet and get it done properly.

 

The subframe dosent need to be fully removed to replace the brake pipes, just dropped down out of position, done mine 2 yrs ago no problem dropping the subframe, you need to remove some of the boot trim to remove the top shocker nuts and then remove the subframe nuts the frame lowers enough to do the job, its still akward but can be done, dont just do the 3 that failed do them all that way you dont have to do it all again next year

They cant fail the sills for being corroded at the jacking points, only if the corrosion is within 30cm of a safety critical component ie suspension, steering, brake component or a seat belt mounting point etc.

 

 

Regardless of that, you'd want the sills to be completely replaced.

They cant fail the sills for being corroded at the jacking points, only if the corrosion is within 30cm of a safety critical component ie suspension, steering, brake component or a seat belt mounting point etc.

 

So have a look at the areas they have failed and check to see it has been failed correctly, tbh the main area of Z sill weakness appears to be the sill returns which is well within 30cm of the rear suspension mountings. do a forum search on corrosion and you will find lots of recent posts..... the Z sills are quite complex and you will find more corrosion has occurred internally than is first apparent, to repair them properly involves a lot of work, but you could probably get someone to patch them up fairly cheaply however this really isnt ideal because the body structure strength will be greatly reduced and the rust will just pop back through in a year or so, much better to bite the bullet and get it done properly.

 

The subframe dosent need to be fully removed to replace the brake pipes, just dropped down out of position, done mine 2 yrs ago no problem dropping the subframe, you need to remove some of the boot trim to remove the top shocker nuts and then remove the subframe nuts the frame lowers enough to do the job, its still akward but can be done, dont just do the 3 that failed do them all that way you dont have to do it all again next year

 

Rear jacking points are right next to the rear subframe mounting points ;)

The only way to stop rust is to remove it, don't fiberglass/fill over it.

Regardless of that, you'd want the sills to be completely replaced.

 

Why????? if its only affecting a certain area thats all that needs replaced, not the whole fookin sill, if you look at most of the others on the forum who have had sill work done you will notice have only replaced the sill return area!

 

 

Rear jacking points are right next to the rear subframe mounting points

 

:) :) and thats one of the reasons im in the middle of repairing my sills, the other is that ive inspected a lot of cars that have been involved in accidents that have just crumpled up because of corrosion in the sill areas.

its not as much as you would think, i had the left side inner and outter sill replaced. It was 100 for the sill which i know is a bit cheaper than retail price, and 120.00 to prime it and weld it all in place which included a few other minor patches around the zed, if your not good with the torch its just finding a garage who wont try it on, i was told by 1 garage around a grand which i nearly went with cause i wanted the mot :dance:

Could do with a reliable garage in scotland! Problem is i don't trust anyone to touch my car!

Im in the middle of doing this now. I started to replace the gearbox and when lifting the car on the ramp, the O/S/R sill went through.

After a few stabs with a screw driver, i found the inside was worse then the outside.

As for panels, i made mine with 1mm sheet steel. Very east to make as are roughly a flat sheet (give or take a bend or two), anyone with any sense would be able to make them and save your self £45 / panel.

If possible, i will try to get some pictures up to show how its done, failing that, if you are willing to drive to Wirral (near liverpool / chester) i can do them no prob.

Im in the middle of doing this now. I started to replace the gearbox and when lifting the car on the ramp, the O/S/R sill went through.

After a few stabs with a screw driver, i found the inside was worse then the outside.

As for panels, i made mine with 1mm sheet steel. Very east to make as are roughly a flat sheet (give or take a bend or two), anyone with any sense would be able to make them and save your self £45 / panel.

If possible, i will try to get some pictures up to show how its done, failing that, if you are willing to drive to Wirral (near liverpool / chester) i can do them no prob.

 

Pity you are 2 years late with your offer of help:wack: