I have a rattly bottom end (OO-EErr matron!) suspect a bottom end bearing.

 

have spoken to ryan and he thinks it is probably due to me using gtx 10-40 when i did my last oil change..

 

how difficult is it for me to find out the bearing and crank numbers so i can order the correct parts?? i presume you can do it by removing the sump??

 

also how can i check if it has done any damage to my tubs??

 

and where is the best place to get new bearings from..

 

any spanner jockeys available who have done this before and could help???

 

reason for me askin is ryan is backed up solid for the next 3 weeks and i would like to have her fixed for japfest2 ..

 

IF ANYONE CAN HELP ME DO THIS I WILL BE MOST GRATEFUL... (would even be as grateful as to offer cash for travelling etc and beer too!!..)

 

need to get sorted, cant be zedless it drives me completely :nana2: :nana2:

 

thanks in advance

Hi Mate

 

The numbers are stamped on the block to which bearings you need and i got mine from Mike Feeney :)

 

Personally i would do a full engine out job to do a proper job of it mate as it just doesnt work just dropping the sump off!! unfortunatly thats cutting corners so in all honesty i would think about what your looking to do with the car ie if your looking to go for new pistons etc at some time and do it all while the engine is out? of course you can just refresh the engine with new bearings and rings etc :)

 

Mike

 

as kirbz says, prob best to do everything you need at the same time!

 

and speak to mike feeney ;)

mike & mowgs cheers for the info re the numbers,

 

reason for doing it the corner cutting way is cash!! can it not be done via the sump then??

 

and yes i would love nothing better than a set of drop forged pistons and bigger tubs but am gonna have to wait cos i dont have the cash!!

shouldnt need much doing cos it had a rebuild with new heads last year at ztech so...

its already been rebuilt???

shouldnt need much doing cos it had a rebuild with new heads last year at ztech so...

Check yer invoice to see what bits you had replaced mate so as to eliminate other issues, but imo given the cost with labour etc to do bearings, you really need to get the car there or somewhere that it can be heard by the mechanic in person and perhaps investigated further to 100% ascertain the problem.

smithy

shouldnt need much doing cos it had a rebuild with new heads last year at ztech so...

 

and if its been rebuilt with in a year then theres no way the bearings should need doing again unless theres been other factors ie oil pump failure etc?? but i would be banging on the door of the rebuilder

 

Mike

Gtx 10-40 would not be responsible alone for bearing failure.

 

Daveman

What he said ^

Most prob down to detting ? what boost you running ?

I have just done a big end and mains rebuild with the engine in the car for a friend, the longest part was waiting for the correct bearings (from mike feeny) , but even if you order direct from nissan you will still have a wait.

The only problem by doing it this way is you dont get your crank reground ? and if you have been running it for a time with the shell gone then you will need a crank re-grind.

As the others have said if you had a rebuild check what was and when it was done, you might have a claim ?

If you do decide to have a go and you know what size the bearings are give me a pm i might be able to help with the bearings ????

Most prob down to detting ? what boost you running ?

 

unlikely, detting would only usually affect the piston/rings! he must be running silly boost for things to go so t1ts up it would affect the bearings? as i said more likely down to oil starvation or something else?

no det problems .. running 14.5 psi through a greddy profec..

 

am gonna have to check what was done on the rebuild..

no det problems .. running 14.5 psi through a greddy profec..

 

am gonna have to check what was done on the rebuild..

might show a supprise or two,should,nt have gone that soon :nono:

hmmm got me goin now...

and if its been rebuilt with in a year then theres no way the bearings should need doing again unless theres been other factors ie oil pump failure etc?? but i would be banging on the door of the rebuilder

 

Mike

HG failure so all that was done was heads skimmed and checked within tolerance, new gaskets/seals, just to clarify :cool:

cant remember tbh greg bud. and despite askin i never got a receipt..

nevermind anyway not a prob.. not gonna make a big deal..

 

peoples comments have given me something to think about..

HG failure so all that was done was heads skimmed and checked within tolerance, new gaskets/seals, just to clarify :cool:

 

ahh so could just be old bearings with wear and tear??

thought they had been done tbh but maybe not..

 

i never got a receipt so..

Whether or not this was the case, when changing the HG you must be VERY carefull to ensure no traces of coolant are left in the oil. Coolant will react with the oil to produce an acid which will rapidly eat away at your bearings. I am NOT saying this was the case with yours (highly unlikely due to the time its lasted since the work was carried out) but still worth pointing out...

 

The work involved replacing the bearings with the engine in just aint worth it IMO. As has already been pointed out, unless you caught the knock VERY early, then your crank will require a regrind then oversize bearings fitting...

 

The grade numbers for the rod bearings are on the rods and the crank, the grade numbers for the mains are on the block and crank ;) Very rare for an engine to require the mains replacing though...

Whether or not this was the case, when changing the HG you must be VERY carefull to ensure no traces of coolant are left in the oil. Coolant will react with the oil to produce an acid which will rapidly eat away at your bearings. I am NOT saying this was the case with yours (highly unlikely due to the time its lasted since the work was carried out) but still worth pointing out...

 

The work involved replacing the bearings with the engine in just aint worth it IMO. As has already been pointed out, unless you caught the knock VERY early, then your crank will require a regrind then oversize bearings fitting...

 

The grade numbers for the rod bearings are on the rods and the crank, the grade numbers for the mains are on the block and crank ;) Very rare for an engine to require the mains replacing though...

 

JESUS its duffman :D

 

Thought you had died mate :rofl:

 

Nice to see you back on here

 

Mike

thanks duffman..

the knock was caught the day it started.. (sunday) been driving under 3000 revs in hold mode since as i aint got another car

Don't drive the car any further or you will be looking at much more than just bearings! I drove mine 15 miles after it went and now I need new bearings/rods AND pistons! The bearing disintegrated allowing the piston to travel too far up the bore, resulting in it hitting the head on every stroke so now thats FUBAR too :(

ahh so could just be old bearings with wear and tear??

 

 

yep precisely and not blaming the oil but 10-40 gtx is a mineral oil, so does not protect the engine all that well, ideal for flushes or running in period where you barely going over 3k rpm.

yep precisely and not blaming the oil but 10-40 gtx is a mineral oil, so does not protect the engine all that well, ideal for flushes or running in period where you barely going over 3k rpm.

 

 

Eerrrrrrrrmmmmm..... Mineral oil is not as stable at higher temperatures. Turbos expose the oil to higher temperature hence why synthetic oil is recommended. The big ends however run at the same temperature as an NA so I seriously seriously doubt that the oil was at fault in this case... You could run a turbo car for years on mineral oil without problems. You may get a little less life from it but the difference isn't as drastic as the oil companies would have you believe....