Trying to get the centre bearing support off the propshaft (think I've got the names right-ish), but the 2 17mm nuts are well solid. Have used a lot of wd40, a big bar and a ton of leverage but they won't budge.

 

How the hell do I get them off? Would one of those little butane micro-torches help to heat up the nut/bolt :confused:

Trying to get the centre bearing support off the propshaft (think I've got the names right-ish), but the 2 17mm nuts are well solid. Have used a lot of wd40, a big bar and a ton of leverage but they won't budge.

 

How the hell do I get them off? Would one of those little butane micro-torches help to heat up the nut/bolt :confused:

 

 

Yep it should do (I have one) have you tried putting the ring ended spanner over the nut and hitting the shaft near the open end with a mallet to see if you can shock it off?

Yep it should do (I have one) have you tried putting the ring ended spanner over the nut and hitting the shaft near the open end with a mallet to see if you can shock it off?

 

No, but I did try my torque wrench and pretty much all of the weight I could put on it and it didn't want to budge. Not sure that I'd be able to get a good swing at it with a mallet as it sits up in the transmission tunnel a bit.

It's heat you need mate!! trust me .. Anymore torque and you'll shear the studs "Very Bad" !! .. Heat it .. Infact I heat pretty much everything exhausts esp :)

 

Craig

No, but I did try my torque wrench and pretty much all of the weight I could put on it and it didn't want to budge. Not sure that I'd be able to get a good swing at it with a mallet as it sits up in the transmission tunnel a bit.

 

 

The Cans are about £7 and the gas nozzle adaptor plate and stand about £4 these can be purchased from B&Q. Don't worry about the size of the can they last a while :)

Try heating up just the nut first, and also do you know you can get nut splittters from machine mart this may also be another option.

 

p.s. good luck ;)

The Cans are about £7 and the gas nozzle adaptor plate and stand about £4 these can be purchased from B&Q. Don't worry about the size of the can they last a while :)

Try heating up just the nut first, and also do you know you can get nut splittters from machine mart this may also be another option.

 

p.s. good luck ;)

Won't split em' mate-they're bolt heads, shouldn't be that tight anyhow!

An air gun will shift em'!

use a hardened 17mm 1/2"socket with a very big breaker bar,then slide the biggest scaffold bar over that,trust me that will shift it,just make sure you hold the bar straight,otherwise the bolts may round

use a hardened 17mm 1/2"socket with a very big breaker bar,then slide the biggest scaffold bar over that,trust me that will shift it,just make sure you hold the bar straight,otherwise the bolts may round

 

That's what my bro suggested as well. I'll see if I can find a scaffolding bar in the morning and give it a try. I wasn't sure if I was getting to the stage where the top of the bolt was just going to sheer off with the force.

That's what my bro suggested as well. I'll see if I can find a scaffolding bar in the morning and give it a try. I wasn't sure if I was getting to the stage where the top of the bolt was just going to sheer off with the force.

According to the news there is fourteen stories of scaffold tube going spare ,I bet they may have a strait bit you can have. :x: Only joking Fella,good luck. :D

I take it ur trying to split the centre bearing flange end, if i remember make sure you undo the nut end only as the bolt end locks on to a flat part of the prop and won't turn

richard

WD40 is next to useless as a penetrating agent................try useing plusgas instead

An air gun will shift em'!

 

What size pellets should he use - .177 or .22 :x:

What size pellets should he use - .177 or .22 :x:

LOL i rekon a 12bore will be more appropriate :D

I take it ur trying to split the centre bearing flange end, if i remember make sure you undo the nut end only as the bolt end locks on to a flat part of the prop and won't turn

richard

 

errr...i was following the instructions where you seperate it from the diff, then drop the centre and take it off in one piece.

im an engineer by trade, big bars etc will tend to shear the bolt rather than remove it, if we get to old rusty bolts, we tap them on the head, this should help free the rust between the threads, tap it a few times , i say tap just incase your heavy handed, spray with some decent penertraion oil , (no wd40 its crap) use a torque rench and it will come out, if that dont work then you got no choice but to drill it out and use a helicoil replacement, unless you want to risk using a scaffold bar and possibly bending/damaging somthing else.

 

Oh and DONT USE heat as, the bolt is touching the threaded insert so will expand with the casing so no gain there!!!! if anything it will make it worse as the bolt has a lower melting point so will expand at a greater rate than the casting making it even harder to come out, and also the hotter the metal the easyer it is to break!!!!

What size pellets should he use - .177 or .22 :x:

Funny fecker!! :slap: :D

The scaffolding pole worked. No rust on the bolts, but they had obviously been loctited pretty heavily.

 

I'm right up to the point of dropping the gearbox (which is tomorrows job), so no doubt I'll have more questions then.

 

Thanks for all the help.

The scaffolding pole worked. No rust on the bolts, but they had obviously been loctited pretty heavily.

 

I'm right up to the point of dropping the gearbox (which is tomorrows job), so no doubt I'll have more questions then.

 

Thanks for all the help.

;)