can anyone help please? not long had my 92 300zx tt and when i leave it in the garage for a few days the battery goes flat. i have put a metre accross the live side and found a 1 amp drain with nothing switched on. the only thing i can add is when i remove the looped fuse in fused link box the leak disappears.

Does the car have an imobiliser/ alarm that could be draining it ? how old is the battery ?

Does the car have an imobiliser/ alarm that could be draining it ? how old is the battery ?

Thanks for taking the time to help, I have switched the alarm/imobiliser off but still the same voltage leak. as to the age of the battery i'm on my second new one so far

Hi mate

 

Switching the alarm off might not stop it from drawing current you have to completely disconnect it as alarms need a constant supply. also how much of a current draw is there. A faulty alternator could cause current draw does the car charge the battery ok

 

Eddie

i'd try that first, disconnect the alternator and see if the current drops, failing that, start pulling fuses to try and narrow which curcuit is faulty.

Hi mate

 

Switching the alarm off might not stop it from drawing current you have to completely disconnect it as alarms need a constant supply. also how much of a current draw is there. A faulty alternator could cause current draw does the car charge the battery ok

 

Eddie

Thanks for the advice, once i figure out how to disconnect the alarm i will check it again. to answer your question about the amount of draw, it is 1 amp! also the battery does have just enough power to start if i use the car daily but if i leave it for 2 days it's flat

i'd try that first, disconnect the alternator and see if the current drops, failing that, start pulling fuses to try and narrow which curcuit is faulty.

Thanks for the info,question, is there an easy way to disconnect the alternator? say a harness plug in the engine bay? with reference to pulling fuses i have narrowed it down to a fuse in the fuseable link box, it's a strange looking fuse with a loop of wire accross the top, i pull this and the drain disappears, any thoughts?

I just changed my battery problem solved :)

hes already said hes on his second new battery :slap:

To everybody out there who took the time out to help, Big thanks though i am still trying to solve the proplem!!!

1A@12V equates to 12Watts which is typical of a bulb? You've probably already checked the obvious but is the boot light switch knocking off the bulb when closed? I had this and didn't notice until I dropped the rear seats only to discover that it was permanently on! An alarm usually draws around 300mA when armed depending of course on the make and complexity of the design.

My car suffers from this problem as well (I'm on my third battery :( ). Solved it by getting one of these.

 

Steve :)

1A@12V equates to 12Watts which is typical of a bulb? You've probably already checked the obvious but is the boot light switch knocking off the bulb when closed? I had this and didn't notice until I dropped the rear seats only to discover that it was permanently on! An alarm usually draws around 300mA when armed depending of course on the make and complexity of the design.

Many thanks DaveMac, I will check it out, I hope you are right. I will let you know how I get on. fingers crossed :bow:

My car suffers from this problem as well (I'm on my third battery :( ). Solved it by getting one of these.

 

Steve :)

Thanks Steve. sounds like a nice piece of kit, will try and get one at the weekend. :cool:

Thanks Steve. sounds like a nice piece of kit, will try and get one at the weekend. :cool:

 

 

no no no no no... youre just treating the symptoms, youre not fixing the fault, your car shouldnt go flat after a day or two FACT, a bit of patience and youll find it.

no no no no no... youre just treating the symptoms, youre not fixing the fault, your car shouldnt go flat after a day or two FACT, a bit of patience and youll find it.

 

I agree.

Also, a one amp drain is a considerable amount. Alarms / immobilisers should only pull a hundred milliamps max. For what it's worth, you should be able to leave your car a month and have enough juice in it to start.

 

Regards

Simon.

no no no no no... youre just treating the symptoms, youre not fixing the fault, your car shouldnt go flat after a day or two FACT, a bit of patience and youll find it.

 

Point taken Scoops, Your absolutely right! Will persevere, thanks!!! :headvswal

I agree.

Also, a one amp drain is a considerable amount. Alarms / immobilisers should only pull a hundred milliamps max. For what it's worth, you should be able to leave your car a month and have enough juice in it to start.

 

Regards

Simon.

Thankyou for your input, very much appreciated. Would it be possible that my problem is being caused by a short in the alternator? again many thanks :confused:

disconnect the alternator to prove it, although in previous cars where the alternator was duff the ignigtion light used to glow dim, but dont know about zeds.

 

What voltage have you got in your battery with the car switched off?, should be around 12.5 volts.

 

Start the car and while its running check the voltage again, it should be around 14.4 if the alternator is doing its job.

 

If i were you, stick your multimeter on the current setting and put it in series with your battery, then pull fuses and see where the current reading drops that way you'll atleast identify the circuit which is sucking the most juice and you can star hunting from there.

If i were you, stick your multimeter on the current setting and put it in series with your battery, then pull fuses and see where the current reading drops that way you'll atleast identify the circuit which is sucking the most juice and you can star hunting from there.

 

The above method is your best bet IMO. You WILL narrow it down this way.

 

Good luck

 

Dave.

disconnect the alternator to prove it, although in previous cars where the alternator was duff the ignigtion light used to glow dim, but dont know about zeds.

 

What voltage have you got in your battery with the car switched off?, should be around 12.5 volts.

 

Start the car and while its running check the voltage again, it should be around 14.4 if the alternator is doing its job.

 

If i were you, stick your multimeter on the current setting and put it in series with your battery, then pull fuses and see where the current reading drops that way you'll atleast identify the circuit which is sucking the most juice and you can star hunting from there.

Hi Scoops big thanks for your help, have checked voltages as you said and found them to be ok. then tried as you suggested and pulled fueses one by one and found a fuse in the right hand footwell, 10 amp fuse first on the left,bottom row which when removed dropped the leak to below .2amp will need to look at circuit drawings next, will let you know :duffer: :dance:

The above method is your best bet IMO. You WILL narrow it down this way.

 

Good luck

 

Dave.

Hi DaveMac big thanks for your help,following your addvise i have found a 10amp fuse that does drop the leak, all i have to do is try to find out where to go from here. will let you know.

ps to DaveMac,Scoops and everybody else that has helped so far MANY THANKS!!!! :smash: :smash: :smash: :duffer: :duffer: :duffer:

My car suffers from this problem as well (I'm on my third battery :( ). Solved it by getting one of these.

 

Steve :)

 

Steve what was this, links dead

Steve what was this, links dead

 

It was a trickle charger Chris - have searched their site and can't find it anymore. Think it was made by a company called Ring

 

HTH

 

Steve :)