Thanks everyone for all the feedback received on the last thread I posted and I hope it was at the least an "eye-opener" for some.

 

I thought it would be a good idea to keep details of any advice given and a list of recommendations somewhere on this page (hopefully an admin will make it a sticky at some point so that it is easily found).

 

Looking at my comments so far, these are the ones that I feel belong in here, if you have any others then please contribute or ask futher questions which hopefully will make this an interesting FAQ thread one day.

 

Quotes so far:

 

Oilman c/o John Rowland (Silkolene/Fuchs R&D Chemist)

 

So, the chemistry of “synthetics” is complex and so is the politics!

 

The economics are very simple. If you like the look of a smart well-marketed can with “synthetic” printed on it, fair enough, it will not cost you a lot; and now you know why this is the case. But, if you drive a high performance car, and you intend to keep it for several years, and maybe do the odd “track day”, then you need a genuine Ester/PAO (Poly Alpha Olefin) synthetic oil, such as PRO S or PRO R. This oil costs more money to buy, because it costs us a lot of money to make, very simply, you always get what you pay for!

 

 

Oilman

 

My opinions are frank but based on facts so I'll apolgise in advance if I upset anyone but I will ALWAYS give you the "best advice", you don't have to take it.

 

Finally, oil for the 300zx is an interesting one as the recommendations I have had are based around the Manufacturers which is 10w-40 Semi-syn however, depending on driving conditions, the following grades can be considered 10w-40 semi-syn,10w-50 Fully-syn, 5w-40 fully syn and 15w-50 fully syn.

 

These all have different advantages to the performance of the car depending on how you use the car. Short journeys, long journeys, track days etc....

 

 

deve8uk

 

So how about sugesting something for a zx with minor mods, running approx 10psi boost that is a daily driver and normaly does short trips and only rarely gets booted. And I do mean rarely here.

 

 

Oilman

 

Firstly bear in mind that the car was designed to run on 10w-40 which is the manufacturers recommended oil but as just about all 10w-40's that I know of except for one are semi-synthetics I would go for fully synthetic as it has a higher resistance to thinning down with temperature (a good one that is, not just an excuse for a synthetic with a pretty label) as they stay in grade longer.

 

 

Oilman

 

For short journeys and lots of cold starts, you need an oil that circulates quickly as this is where 70+ percent of the engine wear occurs so rather than using a 10w consider a 5w, its thinner and circulates more easily. 0w is even quicker but may be too thin and you could end up with oil seal leaks.

 

For faster longer journeys where the engine is operating a high temperatures (hard driving) I would consider a 10w-50 or 10w-60 to give more protection at the top end but you want an oil that has a high resistance to thinning down and "stays in grade" longer. Ester is the best for this (see note below).

 

For racing and track days, you need an oil that will give more protection still and I would consider a 15w-50 which is a recognised motorsport and racing oil which will protect you almost entirely at the top end.

 

 

RichardSmith

 

What are your views on Millers XFS 5w40 and Shell Helix Ultra 5w40 fully synthetics?

 

 

Oilman

 

Difficult to comment really as I've never stocked Shell or Millers. I would be happy using Shell but based on Millers prices, I wonder about the quality, the first post here may be relevant to their oils but without the data it's difficult to say for sure.

I'll try to speak to some technical bods on monday and see if they have any data or experience of these oils.

 

Here are some comments so far for kick off.

 

Cheers

Simon

I would have felt a lot more comfortable if the data sheet that was being passed around secretly hadn't have been composed by fuchs oils who happen to own silkolene

The RS 10w-60 report is composed by a Chemist (who indeed works for Fuchs/Silkolene) but the contents are chemical analysis which anyone with the appropriate equipment can do and will find the same results.

 

Our recommendations are recieved from Olyalager Organisation B.V. which is a proprietory database used by most oil companies including Fuchs. They also use OATS which is a UK based one that we subscibe to for quick reference although Olyalager is by far more comprehensive.

 

Oil companies pay tens of thousands of pounds per annum to subcribe to these databases as it would be uneconomical for them to have their own and keep them up to date.

 

I must just say that I am offended by some of the posts on this forum from people who are so called "experts" but clearly don't read either the handbook or the advice that I give which is free and correct.

 

If our advice is not wanted or appreciated then I would suggest that this thread is locked and forum members contact us by email rather than getting into a slanging match every time oil is mentioned.

 

Please don't shoot the messenger because you don't like the message.

 

The decision is yours, it's your forum.

 

Cheers

Simon

Hi Simon, unless I'm being a complete div (and I have to admit the possibility that I may be) there doesn't seem to be a price list on your website. Can you give me a quote for the Silkolene Pro-S 10w50 please? Think I'll need 10 litres as I've just bought the car and have no idea what's in there at the moment so I'll need to use some of it for a flush. Incidentally at this stage I'm asking for information purposes only because I'm not touching anything on the car until the warranty expires in 3 months.

Thanks,

Bart

my black ! beauty has done 68k ,i went with the castrol rs in the end runs really smooth ,put shell optimax fuel in today for first time ,and i can recommend that too.

bleedin 'ell. this thread is confusing more people than its helping :(

 

for fooks sake, just use a good quality semi or fully synthetic oil.

 

mobil 1 0w40 is no thinner that 10w40 when at operating temps so dont worry about that!

 

iv always used Mobil oils. 10w40 semi synth until recently when i changed to a 5w40 fully synth.

 

most people here change there oils faaaaaaaaaaaar to frequently to worry about degredation.

 

so, get a good quality oil, change it frequently & drive your bleedin car!! :D

bleedin 'ell. this thread is confusing more people than its helping :(

 

for fooks sake, just use a good quality semi or fully synthetic oil.

 

mobil 1 0w40 is no thinner that 10w40 when at operating temps so dont worry about that!

 

iv always used Mobil oils. 10w40 semi synth until recently when i changed to a 5w40 fully synth.

 

most people here change there oils faaaaaaaaaaaar to frequently to worry about degredation.

 

so, get a good quality oil, change it frequently & drive your bleedin car!! :D

 

 

have you noticed any boost pipes popping off whilst using mobil? I thought this oil was recommended only for forged pistons combined with forged gearknobs

 

 

p.s. driving your car too frequently will degrade its power :D

bleedin 'ell. this thread is confusing more people than its helping :(

 

for fooks sake, just use a good quality semi or fully synthetic oil.

 

mobil 1 0w40 is no thinner that 10w40 when at operating temps so dont worry about that!

 

iv always used Mobil oils. 10w40 semi synth until recently when i changed to a 5w40 fully synth.

 

most people here change there oils faaaaaaaaaaaar to frequently to worry about degredation.

 

so, get a good quality oil, change it frequently & drive your bleedin car!! :D

 

Well said that man!!!! :dance:

 

BTW, I do know of one car that specifies ONLY Castrol RS 10w60 on its oil cap for what it's worth - the mighty Jaguar XJ220.....

 

I remember the advert for the oil way back in 1991 - ".....Jaguar were so impressed with our oil they built a car especially for it....."

 

Richard :x:

OH FFS, YAWN, YAWN, YAWN !!! Will Somebody Shut This Thread Down ??? Mac, Mike ???

Hi Simon, unless I'm being a complete div (and I have to admit the possibility that I may be) there doesn't seem to be a price list on your website. Can you give me a quote for the Silkolene Pro-S 10w50 please? Think I'll need 10 litres as I've just bought the car and have no idea what's in there at the moment so I'll need to use some of it for a flush. Incidentally at this stage I'm asking for information purposes only because I'm not touching anything on the car until the warranty expires in 3 months.

Thanks,

Bart

 

Bart,

 

No problem,

 

Please drop me a mail to sales@opieoils.co.uk and I will give you a list of options and prices.

 

For some reason I cannot use the pm system here :confused: HHhhhmmm.

 

Cheers

 

Simon.

OH FFS, YAWN, YAWN, YAWN !!! Will Somebody Shut This Thread Down ??? Mac, Mike ???

 

 

 

Ok agree in part, may seem to some like its boring but some good info has been posted,and i find it interesting to be honest,it all helps as they say,good clean wholesome debate on most parts,have been reading up on a few things,one being this,most on here drive there Z like it was meant for,ie WOT if given half the chance :D ,so we are looking that we need that extra bit of protection,especialy as these engines do get bloody well hot,all the big players like Millers,Castrol,Shell, recomend if car spec requires 10/40 then to use a 10/60 or a 15/60 for fast road,or rally/race,especialy if running turbos,Mobil recomend Mobil1 15/50 for same conditions,one other thing,all these oils are recomended for track days too,so if say your running a 10/40 best to change to a 10/60 otherwise after 8 or so laps the 10/40 is boiling ie thermal break down,a 10/60 gives better film strength to withstand thermal break down at ultra high engine temperatures.So,in conclusion i feel happy to use a 10/50 or a 10/60 so in the event of my Z deciding to get to hot i will have more/better protection,especialy in my tub bearings.

 

Tony :)

 

Hope that bored you all :D

Ok agree in part, may seem to some like its boring but some good info has been posted,and i find it interesting to be honest,it all helps as they say,good clean wholesome debate on most parts,have been reading up on a few things,one being this,most on here drive there Z like it was meant for,ie WOT if given half the chance :D ,so we are looking that we need that extra bit of protection,especialy as these engines do get bloody well hot,all the big players like Millers,Castrol,Shell, recomend if car spec requires 10/40 then to use a 10/60 or a 15/60 for fast road,or rally/race,especialy if running turbos,Mobil recomend Mobil1 15/50 for same conditions,one other thing,all these oils are recomended for track days too,so if say your running a 10/40 best to change to a 10/60 otherwise after 8 or so laps the 10/40 is boiling ie thermal break down,a 10/60 gives better film strength to withstand thermal break down at ultra high engine temperatures.So,in conclusion i feel happy to use a 10/50 or a 10/60 so in the event of my Z deciding to get to hot i will have more/better protection,especialy in my tub bearings.

 

Tony :)

 

Hope that bored you all :D

Yeah, but this crap has all been said, debated and discussed before if you all do a search....

Tattooman.

 

How is this thread crap?

 

I guess it's because you don't agree with the advice - That doesn't mean it's crap.

 

The information here is both factual and informative and appreciated by many here so I guess it's time to stop posting offensive and unnecessary replies. We know you don't agree and you've made your points.

 

The thread is entitiled oil advice and recommendations, lets keep it on topic or lock it all together and members can find another expert to give advice.

 

Cheers

Simon

Hows about the thread gets cleared up a bit and then moderated from them on... Or is that too easy to think of? :confused:

All of the issues on this thread have been discussed on here previously, SXOC, Skyline Owners, GTR Forum and Supra .net it all sounds just like a Broken Tape Recorder. Just regurgitated information. I'm sorry that you think I am OFFENSIVE Simon but I do not think that is the case just all of the stuff on this thread is Sooooooo God Damn Repeitive. If people on here haven't found the correct engine oil by now then they never will after all of this..God help them.... :confused: :confused: :confused:

Tattooman.

 

How is this thread crap?

 

I guess it's because you don't agree with the advice - That doesn't mean it's crap.

 

The information here is both factual and informative and appreciated by many here so I guess it's time to stop posting offensive and unnecessary replies. We know you don't agree and you've made your points.

 

The thread is entitiled oil advice and recommendations, lets keep it on topic or lock it all together and members can find another expert to give advice.

 

Cheers

Simon

Anyway Simon, when you can be Arsed to pay your Membership/Subscription for the 300zx Club then maybe you will get a little more respect on this forum when you start dishing out advice and accusations of being OFFENSIVE !!! If you are a reputable Oil wholesaler then £20 won't sting your pocket !!!!

Simon, did you get my email requesting price info? Only I haven't heard from you so I was wondering if it had got through.

Thanks,

Bart

Bart,

 

I did get your email thanks. I am requesting some further clarification and will get back to you ASAP.

 

Cheers

Simon

Thanks Simon, no rush. Just wanted to check you'd got it OK.

Cheers,

Bart

anyone using motul 15w50?

Motul 300V 15w-50 is a double ester/pao formulation all other motul 15w-50's are petroleum based oils.

 

The 300V is a top oil and popular in the "race" and "modded car" community.

 

Tech data sheet here:

 

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/TechSpecs/Mobil%20and%20Motul/300VCompetition.pdf

 

Cheers

Simon

Motul 300V 15w-50 is a double ester/pao formulation all other motul 15w-50's are petroleum based oils.

 

The 300V is a top oil and popular in the "race" and "modded car" community.

 

Tech data sheet here:

 

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/TechSpecs/Mobil%20and%20Motul/300VCompetition.pdf

 

Cheers

Simon

 

yes they suggested mme the 300v didnt involved with oil before so dont know wether is good or not?

 

but temps here goes up to 40 degrees celcioum in the summer if that also plays a role

An oil like this is more than capable of handling those temperatures.

 

Cheers

Simon

I am today reminded of my shortcomings. Asked a slightly technical question of Simon regarding flashpoints since the observant among you will notice that the temperature in some parts of the 300ZX TT engine can exceed quite considerably the flashpoint of oils such as Silkolene PRO-S 10w50 (which from memory is somewhere around 220 C I think, although I may be mistaken). Anyway Simon spoke to a chemist for me and came back with the following response which I promised to post on the forum:

 

QUOTE

 

The problem here is the very common confusion of Flash point and Spontaneous Ignition Temperature. In the Penske-Martens or 'Closed' F.Pt. test, the vapour pocket above a heated oil sample in a closed vessel is suddenly exposed to a naked flame; if the vapour ignites (this does not mean a continuous fire) this is the Closed F.Pt. The 'open' version is similar, except that the test vessel is open. Obviously, this allows the vapour to escape, so a higher temperature is needed for the vapour to flash; this is why 'open' F.Pts. are always 20 to 40C higher than the 'closed' type. (A closed F.Pt. of 210C is very good. Average mineral blends give figures of 170-190C). The Americans prefer the 'open' method, which tends to look more impressive, especially when quoted in Farenheit.

 

So, an oil can be working at or above its flash point, but to actually burn it will need a flame and some oxygen. Even in very average engines there are situations where the oil is above its F.Pt., but this is not a problem. On the other hand, if the Spontaneous Ignition Temperature is exceeded, this can mean trouble. The various S.I.T. tests involve spraying or dripping oil onto a very hot surface exposed to the air. The S.I.T. is the ignition temp.

 

without exposure to a flame. For most oils it is between 400-450C. A practical example of a spontaneous ignition fire would be an oil leak onto a red hot exhaust manifold or turbo casing.

 

UNQUOTE

 

Some of you may find this useful. I certainly did.

 

 

Cheers,

Bart

An oil like this is more than capable of handling those temperatures.

 

Cheers

Simon

 

 

well dont know sh... regarding oil and sometimes the best or most expensive oil is not needed so i thought i should ask

 

cheers,

Pambos

Hi Oilman

 

What would you recomend for running in a new engine rebuild and Brand New roller bearing turbos (if I ever get that far)