Anyone got a dat file for

Manual 300zx with 18" wheels.

I've lost my files and I only have the original which I believe was based on a supra.

Anyone got a dat file for

Manual 300zx with 18" wheels.

I've lost my files and I only have the original which I believe was based on a supra.

 

Stu

 

I've got one for a manual with stock wheels. Think it was based on AndyP's DAT file. Let me know if you want it...

 

Steve :)

Stu

 

I've got one for a manual with stock wheels. Think it was based on AndyP's DAT file. Let me know if you want it...

 

Steve :)

 

Sorry to hi-jack your thread Stu, but while we're on the subject of RLTC, does anyone have the settings for 17" wheels ?

 

Cheers all !

konrad

Sorry to hi-jack your thread Stu, but while we're on the subject of RLTC, does anyone have the settings for 17" wheels ?

 

Cheers all !

konrad

 

 

It depends on the tyres too, not just the wheels size.

 

Work it out yourself.

 

wheel size in mm, plus the height in tyre wall in mm, divide by 2 times pi

Hmmmmmmm Piiiiiiiii

D'oh, and there was me about to ask you for that same .dat file Stu! I could have a word with SE Pete to see what he's got - I need to drop in there soon to hand him the "jobs not properly finished yet" list.

It depends on the tyres too, not just the wheels size.

 

Work it out yourself.

 

wheel size in mm, plus the height in tyre wall in mm, divide by 2 times pi

Hmmmmmmm Piiiiiiiii

 

Cheers chap !

 

Out of interest then - if the settings have to be calibrated that accurately to accomodate the size of the tyres then how much will worn tyres affect it ? I mean if tyres start out at 8mm tread, and wear down to 2mm tread it changes the diameter of the tyre by 1.2cm, and the rolling radius by about 3.7cm.

 

So, on a 255-45-17 tyres, does the 45% of 255mm calculation assume the tyre is new, or half worn. Even if it does base the height of the sidewall on a half worn tread that still gives about 2cm variance each way, doesn't it ?

 

I'll shut up now ! :x:

Just to confuse it even more, you should measure the diameter by measuring the distance from the floor to the centre line of your wheel - double this to get the diameter. The reason is that with the compression of the tyre the diameter effectively decreases ;)

.....and this thread just highlights the need for a seperate tuning forum. Would be soooo simple to have a thread in there where people can post their dat files and specs.....

.....and this thread just highlights the need for a seperate tuning forum. Would be soooo simple to have a thread in there where people can post their dat files and specs.....

Or even your other quote :o

 

 

Hmm...good point - course that way's actually easier to do too.

I guess it'll also vary slightly with make of tyre - they should all be the same at a given size but some makes are notoriously 'fat' while others look pretty 'skinny'; but measuring from the ground gets round that too !

 

Unless we want to keep changing the settings every thousand miles or so of treadwear though we still need to make the initial measurement when the tyres are half worn.

 

Extra forum - good plan :)

Oh yeah - that actually makes it a little more complicated of course - TYRE PRESSURES!!!! Not that everyone on here doesn't check their pressures EVERY week? Right? ;)

...Extra forum - good plan :)

 

 

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=31877

 

;)

Oh yeah - that actually makes it a little more complicated of course - TYRE PRESSURES!!!! Not that everyone on here doesn't check their pressures EVERY week? Right? ;)

 

I saw some dust caps on a market stall that showed the pressure like the divot thingy on a pressure cooker - so either red, yellow, or green would show... they were about 3 quid per wheel but I decided they'd just get nicked and didn't bother.

 

I found my fake BBS split 17s with Vredstein used to drop a PSI a week, whereas the stock wheels I have now seem to keep pressure pretty well and usually just one will be slightly off. Living down a gravel track doesn't help...

 

Unlike the P6000s on the daily, which are just RUBBISH. (Mind you I do lean on them more than I should for /65s ;) )

Post your settings here:

 

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=32176

Has any one lost the back of the Zed terminally whilst relying on RLTC? Just asking for research purposes as I feel alot of Supras have gone this way relying too much on TC and not enough on the right foot and brain!

Yes but only due to bad configuration. The unit is only as good as it is set up really :)