Hi guys

 

I’ve seen a few power steering pots looking like new. Is draining the power steering fluid relatively simple? How have you got the new finish? Is there much to worry about when it comes to refilling the system?

 

Same sort of questions for the HICA unit. Obviously it’s not painted, how would I go about getting this removed and refurbished?

 

 

Cheers

Chris.

Is draining the power steering fluid relatively simple?

 

Just suck the fluid out with a syringe till you get to the bottom of the pot. Disconnect the lines (a small amount

of fluid will come out). When done reconnect and refill.

Just suck the fluid out with a syringe till you get to the bottom of the pot. Disconnect the lines (a small amount

of fluid will come out). When done reconnect and refill.

 

 

?:confused:

 

And do you spray the pot, if so what colour was standard?

Even though it is for an NA steering system. This write up should help you a bit.

 

https://www.rgsperformance.com/300zx-how-to/how-to-flush-and-change-the-power-steering-fluid-on-your-z32-300zx-non-hicas/

 

The OEM color, on the earlier models, is the one you see at the top of the pot, that green/brown-ish shade. I'd rather have it painted black or any colour of your choice.

Thanks Rob. I was reading that post this morning and it did look helpful.

I've got a spare PS pot to practice on - any use?

I've got a spare PS pot to practice on - any use?

 

Yes please. :thumbup:

I repainted mine, it’s in my build thread

i just bought a new one, from new they are unpainted aluminium.

 

Any hints and tips for the HICAS pressure pump unit?

 

How best to drain the system enough to remove the 4 pipes?

 

Is it safe to disconnect 4 pipes going into it?

 

How have people tidied the unit and pipe ends up?

 

When reconnecting it looks like there are 4 copper washers on two of the pipes which will need replacing. How to you prepare the two threads on the others two pipes (ptf tape)?

 

How do you bleed the unit after reinstalling?

Any hints and tips for the HICAS pressure pump unit?

 

How best to drain the system enough to remove the 4 pipes?

 

Is it safe to disconnect 4 pipes going into it?

 

How have people tidied the unit and pipe ends up?

 

When reconnecting it looks like there are 4 copper washers on two of the pipes which will need replacing. How to you prepare the two threads on the others two pipes (ptf tape)?

 

How do you bleed the unit after reinstalling?

 

Personally I would leave it alone - the system is working. Why make more work for yourself? I just

cleaned everything up with a brass wire brush and lightly oiled.

Received and understood. :thumbup:

Anything to do with maintenance of the PAS system can get messy quickly. To drain the upper part of the system use a syringe with a tube on the end to get as far down the source and return hoses as you can. You will need a couple of syringes as trans fluid and the piston rubbers don't get along! It is important to try to avoid letting air into the HICAS solenoid and so before drawing the reservoir fluid, pinch-off the hoses to/from the solenoid so as to retain fluid in that part of the hydraulic circuit. Isolating in this way should eliminate the need to bleed the rear power cylinder at the back of the car. Note that the hoses physically connected to the reservoir are not at high pressure; those from the pump are and should be thoroughly checked for cracks, splits or union leaks. A mysterious slight but chronic fluid loss was finally explained when Jimmer, fitting a reconditioned pump, identified a leak in the high pressure pump-steering hose. I also had a pump-Hicas solenoid hose develop a weeping split. Incidentally if you need to replace an HP hose you can get a replacement remade using the original banjo connectors. There are specialists about in the UK. A word of warning. The alternator lives beneath the PAS pump and has had a bad reputation for unreliability. The clue is in the location. Any leaks from the pump or hoses connected to it and aided by gravity, can and do find their way into the vitals of the alternator. So if you are really keen suggest getting your two chamber pump reconditioned. Seal kits still seem to be readily available together with replacement bearings. Somewhere on the forum I did a small write up on a mickey-mouse mod to the PAS reservoir level sender/ nylon sleeve to eliminate a sticking problem which can occur when the fluid gets hot.