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Hi Gents

 

I know this has been covered before, but rather than wade through all the previous post thought I would ask the wealth of knowledge here.

 

I am looking at changing my N/A auto to a manual and I have been able to source a TT manual box with all the bits required

box

pedal

slave and master cylinder's

pressure plate and clutch

fork etc

and all the other various bits I will need, TBH not sure how much more I will need.

 

first question is

What else should I be getting for this conversion? so I can confirm before I pick up the kit.

what parts should I buy new or replace?

will the TT box fit with out alterations on to the N/A engine?

I know that the N/A manual box has to be modified to fit the TT engine, something about the starter and grinding the box bell housing, but not sure if anything has to be done to a TT manual to marry upto a N/A engine?

 

Any other pointers to carry out this task gratefully received

 

thank you all in advance

 

S

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When doing auto to manual conversions, if you stick the corresponding flywheel to that gearbox, then nothing additional needs to be done. If you fit a TT gearbox, fit a TT flywheel, same deal with the NA gearbox. You won't need to modify anything, both mount up perfectly and with the correct configuration, the starter motor won't need shimming. The ratios are the same in both boxes, it's just the bell housing that's different and corresponding flywheel. Starter motors are all identical.

Baffles me why Nissan decided to make a whole different bell housing/flywheel/clutch combo for, what, 5-10mm diameter difference?

 

Guess the only thing to consider is availability of parts (clutch & flywheel) for NA vs TT though seems to be plenty of NA stuff about.

 

Just remembered though when I tried to put an NA box over my XTD flywheel it didn't fit, I think NA boxes need some material removed to fit over a TT flywheel?

If you put a TT box in an na car the speedo reads incorrectly ( different rear diffs and different size cog on speed sensor) at the time i did mine there wasnt a fix, think Jeff might have found a solution since then

 

You need to get a vacuum feed to the clutch servo, a lot of people just T off the brake servo line, but i think its worth fitting the extra pipework and resevoirs nissan used ( meant to fix problems with intermittent vaccuum levels and other things) i also think it protects the servo ( around the time i did mine a lot of people were getting servo failure after conversions) a minimum of another non return valve would stop brake failure in event of clutch servo leak.

 

Dont you also need to replace half the prop shaft ( with one off the same wheel base car)? Im sure i did

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

If you put a TT box in an na car the speedo reads incorrectly ( different rear diffs and different size cog on speed sensor) at the time i did mine there wasnt a fix, think Jeff might have found a solution since then

 

You need to get a vacuum feed to the clutch servo, a lot of people just T off the brake servo line, but i think its worth fitting the extra pipework and resevoirs nissan used ( meant to fix problems with intermittent vaccuum levels and other things) i also think it protects the servo ( around the time i did mine a lot of people were getting servo failure after conversions) a minimum of another non return valve would stop brake failure in event of clutch servo leak.

 

Dont you also need to replace half the prop shaft ( with one off the same wheel base car)? Im sure i did

Yea auto and manual props are different lengths.

 

Good point about the reservoir, I haven't got one and my clutch goes heavy when shifting after full throttle

 

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  • Author

Thanks guys keep the info coming will need all the help.

Does the TT have this extra reservoir? I could ask the seller to include it.

Will see if I can find a NA speed sensor unless someone on here has one?

Does anyone have the wiring diagram for the water loom?

Spoke with Mondo earlier and he said that it is just 3 wires that need to be connected but he couldn’t remember which ones or if he still had the diagram

I have one, taken out when I put NA manual box in my TT some years ago and replaced with TT sensor, just been on my shelf.

Not far from you, we met at beaulieu few years.

DBA98902-045B-4C8A-8525-2F585BD36E9F.jpg

  • Author

That's awesome thanks

In Chew Magna first thing but can swing by Bath anytime just give me a pm with yr number and address and I will call and arrange with you

Stuart

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

Well a mate of mine is going to be picking up this gearbox set up for me on Thursday, so really looking forward to having a manual.

Apparently the box is from a TT but is coming out of an N/A so it all should just bolt straight back in place including the prop shaft which is awesome.

It will also come with a brand new clutch, which was a concern whether or not to buy a new one or fit the old one.

Is there anything else i will need new ?

And does anyone have the wiring diagram for the auto box and knowledge of what wires i need to connect/ splice or leave alone so that the car isn't looking for the auto to be in park etc?

And poss a list of everything I might need just to be on the safe side?

 

thanks

You'll need a new pilot bushing, though I guess it might come with the new clutch. Worth checking. Get a braided clutch line as well if it doesn't come with one, much easier to fit.

 

Quite common to fit a chromoly pivot ball and a 350z clutch fork as it doesn't flex as much, again worth thinking about whilst you're doing it.

 

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  • Author

Cheers Chris will look into that any idea where the best place to get the pivot ball and clutch fork?

Cheers Chris will look into that any idea where the best place to get the pivot ball and clutch fork?

 

I came across this place when i was looking at parts for a manual conversion.

 

https://www.torqen.uk/nissan/350z/powertrain/ancillaries/7862-350z-de-torqen-upgraded-heavy-duty-clutch-fork-kit-for-2003-models-only-30531-cd000-fk-z33.html

 

I never dealt with them but they appear to be based in the UK and may be worth looking into. Should also stress that i cannot say 100% that this is what you need, so please double-check.

 

I ended up ordering a whole bunch of stuff (including the up-rated fork and pivot ball) from Concept Z Performance before Easter, which is yet to arrive... :glare:

Cheers Chris will look into that any idea where the best place to get the pivot ball and clutch fork?
Usual suspects would be Z1 or CZP, though I guess the clutch fork might be available from somewhere like nissangenuine.com

 

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I came across this place when i was looking at parts for a manual conversion.

 

https://www.torqen.uk/nissan/350z/powertrain/ancillaries/7862-350z-de-torqen-upgraded-heavy-duty-clutch-fork-kit-for-2003-models-only-30531-cd000-fk-z33.html

 

I never dealt with them but they appear to be based in the UK and may be worth looking into. Should also stress that i cannot say 100% that this is what you need, so please double-check.

 

I ended up ordering a whole bunch of stuff (including the up-rated fork and pivot ball) from Concept Z Performance before Easter, which is yet to arrive... :glare:

Wow you should get hold of them my orders normally take less than a week

 

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  • Author

So got the gearbox today all looks ok, the flywheel needs a skim as it looks like the last use was doing burn outs and the face looks burnt.

 

Haven’t got the manual wiring harness but I understand that a slight modification to the auto harness and all will be well.

Haven’t been able to find much about what wires need to be remade to make it work, so if any of you have that information that would be good thanks.

77B15EDD-05E6-4304-8229-20AEB9E23279.jpg

Or do I just buy a manual loom and if I did would I need one from an NA or From a TT?

On the skimming of a flywheel is there any limits or thickness that need to be kept in mind?

1D67237D-34ED-44D9-A5A4-FFC483382A28.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Author

Any idea what the little box is next to the handbrake it has two braded wires in and a electrical connector the other end, unfortunately can’t load any pics

  • Author

IMG_0791[12].jpg

this is the box

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

also have had the flywheel re skimmed ready to fit for this conversion

 

IMG_0793[10].jpg

[ATTACH=CONFIG]117197[/ATTACH]

this is the box

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

also have had the flywheel re skimmed ready to fit for this conversion

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]117198[/ATTACH]

 

The flywheels are not flat. That has been skimmed wrong I am afraid

  • Author

Hi ya Jimmer how can you tell that?

It was machine by a company who machine brakes and flywheels professionally.

  • Author

Ok looking at further pics online looks like there should be a step on the outer edge, so that the outer edge is thinner and then steps up to the friction plate surface.

Does anyone know what the diameter of the friction plate surface should be and also what the depth of the step should be, have read values of 0.1” and 0.05”

 

C9E1005F-825B-427F-9125-B9A91881CE18.jpg

Ok looking at further pics online looks like there should be a step on the outer edge, so that the outer edge is thinner and then steps up to the friction plate surface.

Does anyone know what the diameter of the friction plate surface should be and also what the depth of the step should be, have read values of 0.1” and 0.05”

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]117214[/ATTACH]

Check the service manual, available online. Different value are probably TT vs NA I would guess

 

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  • Author

In the service manual it just says about a run out of0.15mm nothing about a step.

So bit confused now.

Advice required please before I take it back to get it sorted out

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