Currently sat outside a sports hall in the dark, so any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

The car was working and driving fine. Pulled up and got out. Car wouldn't lock/arm with the fob. So just locked with the key. Anyway, now I've come out, the fob still ain't working and the immobilized is on. So I can't start.

 

There's normally an led on in the car, and that's not on or flashing at all so I'm guessing it's a wiring issue. Anyone know how to bypass an immobilized or have any idea where it might be wired to if it uses a fuse?

 

Many thanks,

Lee

Not sure if it would work mate but if you disconnected the car battery for a few minutes and then reconnected it again.

That happens to me with a flat battery, and then the logic gets itself wrong

I get the jump.leads on lock the car with the fob unlock it and then the led is on, usual start from there

Currently sat outside a sports hall in the dark, so any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

The car was working and driving fine. Pulled up and got out. Car wouldn't lock/arm with the fob. So just locked with the key. Anyway, now I've come out, the fob still ain't working and the immobilized is on. So I can't start.

 

There's normally an led on in the car, and that's not on or flashing at all so I'm guessing it's a wiring issue. Anyone know how to bypass an immobilized or have any idea where it might be wired to if it uses a fuse?

 

Many thanks,

Lee

Lee have you tried replacing the fob battery or taking it out and and giving it a rub in-between your hands and reinserting it otherwise unscrew your fob backing then try it with a bit of pressure as the connection within the fob can wear over long periods and when pressing it, it doesn't touch if that makes any sense. That's all I can suggest buddy, good luck with it.

 

Sent from my WAS-LX1A using Tapatalk

Thanks all. I managed to get the car started with an emergency code once neen found it. The LED isn't working at all, so I think it's something wiring rather than the fob. Plus it had worked perfect all day

Good to hear Lee now take it home and tell it off.

Gonna kick the shit out of it

Well done getting it going again. :thumbup:

 

Bit of a highjack here but how easy are after market alarm/immobilisers to remove? My car has a Toad system that is showing its age, the “total closure” box was failing so I removed this but now I want to remove the whole system before it fails.

Which Toad system have you got?

Hi Lee,

 

What type of alarm are you running and who fitted it ?

 

Glad you have it working again, I've just bought a new toad system and I think I will be doing a writeup on how to fit it properly.

 

Although for obvious reasons I think it will be posted in the subbed area.

 

 

~

 

 

Really surprised that a toad alarm is failing although the closure box isn't part of the toad alarm.

 

I've seen a lot of alarms over the years and I would say that the toad AI606 is best alarm for the zed.

 

If its installed correctly there's nothing that could ever fail apart from a battery running out.

 

Strangely enough I've just ordered a new one along with new sensors for my current zed project.

Well done getting it going again. :thumbup:

 

Bit of a highjack here but how easy are after market alarm/immobilisers to remove? My car has a Toad system that is showing its age, the “total closure” box was failing so I removed this but now I want to remove the whole system before it fails.

Which Toad system have you got?

 

I don’t know mate, I’ve not got any paper work with it.

 

Really surprised that a toad alarm is failing although the closure box isn't part of the toad alarm.

 

The alarm and immobiliser seem fine (other than only having one remote) but the total closure box was falling appart. In fairness it might have been messed about with after the initial install due to a respray but can’t confirm.

Edited September 1, 20187 yr by Chris300

Hi Lee,

 

What type of alarm are you running and who fitted it ?

 

Glad you have it working again, I've just bought a new toad system and I think I will be doing a writeup on how to fit it properly.

 

Although for obvious reasons I think it will be posted in the subbed area.

 

 

~

 

 

Really surprised that a toad alarm is failing although the closure box isn't part of the toad alarm.

 

I've seen a lot of alarms over the years and I would say that the toad AI606 is best alarm for the zed.

 

If its installed correctly there's nothing that could ever fail apart from a battery running out.

 

Strangely enough I've just ordered a new one along with new sensors for my current zed project.

 

Mine is a Simga M30. From all the searched I do, it's an alarm that Subaru used quite heavily so struggling to find much else. It was fitted in like 2001 though

My car has a Toad system that is showing its age, the “total closure” box was failing so I removed this but now I want to remove the whole system before it fails.

 

If it is a Toad AI606 then the specified immobilisation circuits (usually fuel and starter motor) are described

in the installation guide:

 

Ai606_Install.pdf

 

Trace the black immobilisation wires to where the circuits were cut and rejoin the wires back together.

Edited September 1, 20187 yr by AndrewG
Spelling!

If it is a Toad AI606 then the specified immobilisation circuits (usually fuel and starter motor) are described

in the installation guide:

 

[ATTACH]114175[/ATTACH]

 

Trace the black immobilisation wires to where the circuits were cut and rejoin the wires back together.

 

That's the sort of manual I've been looking for, for mine but I can't find one anywhere

Just an update. Been away but when I got back I tried to look around for a loose connection believing it must be that. Turned out to be a bad earth on a bolt.

 

All working again now

An old member (Securicar) is a qualified alarm system installer and used to fit Sigma alarms for OEM. He rated them as one of the most reliable systems on the market and still fits them today. Glad you got it sorted Lee.