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I see many owners building big power cars and often fitting huge brakes.:scared:

Thats great for posting threads on here and Facebook.

But can you use them??

Can you drive and stop quick??

Personally i dont think you can......:innocent:

 

So here is a chance to prove me wrong and make eat my words.:lol:

In the style of "Street Outlaws" Im calling you out!!:tt2:

 

Here is the challenge. Can you beat a 235bhp NA driven by an OAP??

Come to Donington. Aug 22 late afternoon for the evening track session.

I can manage 10 laps at a time.

How often in that 10 laps can you overtake me?? Once? Twice??

 

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Can I see if I can wax mine in the time it takes you to do 10 laps?

 

:lol::lol::lol:

 

You could come along and take your own track action pics.

Bring Andrew G with you ...he wants to sit in on a track session with me.

Cool idea, I’d honestly be afraid to go near a track as I’ve no track experience and after seeing a Honda NSX wipe itself out on a track barrier at Mondello park last year, I’d be hesitant to bring a freshly painted + expensively modified car to a track, my car will be for show and go but not a track warrior (might look into something like that at a later date though):thumbup1:

If my car was running I’d genuinely be up for this.... although I’d ask for the stipulation of a handful of laps to better learn the circuit

I love the idea. Unfortunately il be in Westminster in London :thumbdown: I can however tell you already that you’d likely be faster than me, experience is king.

 

Onto big Brakes. Technically Peter you have a Big Brake kit, those 350z brembos are significantly larger than stock.

Stock brakes are whilst softer and less sharp than modern Brakes pretty good, if in good condition, for road use. On track, and we’ve all seen it first hand they boil and fade pretty quickly. So the obvious answer is go bigger, you will stop faster to boot... except you won’t.

 

Stopping distance with a BBK will be no less, in fact if poorly designed it could be worse, yup worse. The limiting factor is not the brake, it’s more often than not the grip the tyre can impose. Those front tyres will lock up easy enough with stock brakes. If you want to stop faster you want grip. Then there’s issues like ABS to factor in. The reason to go for a BBK is NOT to stop faster, it’s to stop consistently without fade and failure. This must be done thoughtfully and throwing a set of 6 pot calipers with 355mm front discs and calling it quits won’t make things better, what you have there is a car that want to lock up at the front and become a dart. Useless.

  • Author
Pete is all talk and past it guys and that NA is slow. If you race him and win (which you will) I will send you a big prize from my club membership items a very rare and sought after 300zx club tax disc holder. :thumbup:

 

:lol::lol::lol::lol:

 

There are some grains of truth in there!:biggrin:

So realistically what would be the difference in stopping distance on the road with let’s say the https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-products/z1-motorsports/z1-motorsports-14-akebono-big-brake-kit-300zx-front-and-rear-p-4625.html over a fresh refurbed standard calipers with good quality pads and disks?

 

As Stephen has mentioned above; zero! The difference is when you want to stop repeatedly and your brakes get hot, the BBK could then manage the heat better to continue to maintain that stopping distance.

 

That’s assuming no other variables change, especially tyres.

So what sort of abuse can the standard brakes take? let’s say a fast track (Goodwood motor circuit) is the benchmark, 2 laps, 5 laps?

 

Not having driven my 300 hard for any sustained time I’ve not found the limit.

  • Author
Ha ha love it

Here's the proof

 

Happy memories right there Ian.:thumbup:

We are a very small group of 300 owners who have been and done TOTB.:yes:

  • Author
So what sort of abuse can the standard brakes take? let’s say a fast track (Goodwood motor circuit) is the benchmark, 2 laps, 5 laps?

 

Not having driven my 300 hard for any sustained time I’ve not found the limit.

 

Standard 300ZX brakes with std pads do not cope at all well with track driving.

We had a good demo of that at Three Sisters Track..

FYI Three Sisters is tight and twisty and only 1100m long.

Its very hard on brakes and tyres.

Member Gray and me were both there in slicktops a few years ago.

Gray and his other driver destroyed their brakes in a few short sessions...stock set up.

Track tyres overheating normally happens in my car before brake fade.

Federal RS595s and 350Z gold Brembos with Blue stuff pads.

And the situation will be worse in a std 2+2 due to more weight to stop.

I’d say it also comes down to what you consider acceptable performance wise. In my experience a fully functional, properly serviced stock braking system on 2+2 full fat twin turbo will “start” to fade after only a handful of hard braking events for consecutive roundabouts on a public road. You could take it easy for a while and “nurse” them but if you keep going they will get worse quickly and soon fall off the cliff with boiling fluid.

Edited by Joely P

To continue the discussion, what would be the factor in making the brakes feel like new car's brakes, less soft and don't require you to stand on them to let you know their there.

 

Would it be BMC? The lines? Or just simply the calipers themselves?

Mine are firm and give great bite. Not quite as good as the brakes in my Mercedes, but not bad.

 

The issue with the brakes in the Z32 is down to a number of things. The reason they can feel vague is because of the routing. The ABS modulator is in the boot, it's very indirect as pressure has to travel down both ends of the car and back. Brakes in a new car will always feel different because many are over servo'd which goes at the expense of feel. It feels firm, but they feel numb. Older braking systems are a little more raw. Bleeding the system through the ABS modulator and calipers will help give a much firmer feel. There's also bulkhead flex which you can get an ugly bracket for, but I'm no convinced that makes a massive difference. Old rubber brake lines can swell, so fitting braided ones can help.

 

My braking system has essentially new, new calipers, new booster and good condition MC, I don't think I can get mine much better but I'm pretty happy with it.

The condition of the brake fluid also has a huge impact on pedal effort. Most dot 4 is meant to be flushed every 2 years.... dot 5.1 is more regular than that as it tends to be more hygroscopic that dot 4.

I'm not one for deleting safety things just for the sake of deleting things, but does the abs unit provide a massive effect? Would you see a massive change switching to a non abs setup for a shorter routing or would it not be worth the trade-off?

  • Author

HELP!!!!

Peeps have turned my thread in to a serious discussion. :scared:

I was only having a bit of fun with the topic!!:biggrin:

 

Never mind.

Carry on.

I will start a new thead in a lighter tone ......:thumbup:

HELP!!!!

Peeps have turned my thread in to a serious discussion. :scared:

I was only having a bit of fun with the topic!![emoji3]

 

Never mind.

Carry on.

I will start a new thead in a lighter tone ......[emoji106]

Oops sorry Pete got a little carried away :innocent:
To continue the discussion, what would be the factor in making the brakes feel like new car's brakes, less soft and don't require you to stand on them to let you know their there.

 

Would it be BMC? The lines? Or just simply the calipers themselves?

 

They will never feel like a new cars Brakes. Esp a car of similar performance. The design is wrong. No amount of braided lines, big brakes etc will make a Z32 Brakes like a brand new 911.

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