Hi all,

 

I thought I’d throw this out here to knock some heads together as this problem is really frustrating me now!

 

It started off as a very mild vibration when braking at speeds at around 80mph and above but gradually got worse over a period of months. It was never “too” bad but I decided to try and rectify it before a trip to the Lake District and now it’s become “too” bad!

 

As it stands I get fairly severe vibration at all speeds down to around 20-30mph where it fizzles away. When I first take the car out, it’s nice and smooth with no feedback but after the 2nd or 3rd use of the brakes it begins to worsen and after that it’s at its worst. When I release the brake pedal, all vibration stops and it’s back to smooth sailing, no vibes are evident through the seat.

 

Here’s what has been done:

- Run out checks of both front wheel hubs

- DBA 4000 discs with around 10k miles on were turned down using an on car brake disc lathe

- Thermal paint marking on discs show no evidence of overheat

- New brake pads

- New front upper control arms after play evident in passenger arm, body side bush

- Calipers inspected for piston movement and pad movement

- Full fluid flush and bleed

- All bushes inspected (several times by servers people!) with no evidence of play

 

This little snag has me scratching my head, any ideas? I know spanking another £500 on discs is probably a good call but I just can’t see how these discs are at fault. I did another run out check on them today and they’re perfect!

 

Any advice appreciated.

cementite?

 

http://trackdayzone.com/index.php/how-to-s-main-menu/hpde-how-to-s/114-the-final-word-on-brake-vibration-and-warped-rotors

 

Interesting article Craig.

Excellent article. Makes you wonder how you ever manage to have a car 'without' DVT as they call it.

 

I have K Sports, they are really good and mine have lasted a very long time with lots of track type use. The standard black pads aren't suitable though. I now have yellowstuffs which are much better.

Interesting article Craig.

 

Excellent article. Makes you wonder how you ever manage to have a car 'without' DVT as they call it.

 

I found this and a couple of others a few months ago when i was having very similar problems to Joel.

In the end, i changed disks and pads.

 

On my old disks, you could see what looked like a difference in the material of the disk.

 

With so many components being built on price, it got me wondering whether the suppliers are using or diluting with bad quality material, which doesn't really mix very well in the smelting process.

 

So even without the cementite process occurring from actual usage, there could be parts of the material that actually heat and cool at different rates because they have a slightly different make up.

Ah Joel, it must be so frustrating for you, really feel for you dude. You know where I am if you need me :thumbup1::innocent:

Been reading this with interest...Just because you spent £400 on discs Joel does not guarantee there quality or longevity. I have even come across Chinese knock off Snap-on tools that look the real deal but made of chocolate amoungst loads of other stuff and a lot of the times the seller is a victim too buying from suppliers on the "open market". My money is on the fact you have been sold crap discs which contain crap metallurgy and nothing but new items will fix the problem;)

Excellent article. Makes you wonder how you ever manage to have a car 'without' DVT as they call it.

 

I have K Sports, they are really good and mine have lasted a very long time with lots of track type use. The standard black pads aren't suitable though. I now have yellowstuffs which are much better.

 

i have the d2 caliper setup monster brakes, pads they supply not so impressed with they squeal under heavy breaking. to the OP do you feel the vibration through the brake pedal???

I'm a newbie and was reading the threads on this, not sure if you have sorted it out or not but i'll chip in. I just wondered how they machined the discs for you and what run out they recorded?, was they taken to an engineering shop or were they machined in a car repair garage ?. The reason i ask is that, when we used to "re skim " brake discs, the the machining was done in one go, that is to say both faces were skimmed without turning the disc around in in a lathe chuck. This prevents or reduces error to a minimum, any amount of run out either side will be amplified by the road speed, a thou on one side and on the other side not opposite to it will be felt through the steering when braking .

Go for the akebono kit. I bought a set Xmas just gone, amazing piece of kit really well thought out and you can get the matching rears too. Looks very oem fitted, if your looking to save weight have a look at their two piece rotors. I had brembos on before these and the akebonos are better